Hi all, I decided to start a new thread on this. I recently replaced my injectors and inlet manifold gasket as the injectors were leaking. After a drive, the car would often start badly, stalling after firing etc. Anyway, I have detected a different problem. I am unsure if its connected to the recent work or not. Cold Starts - the car catches pretty quickly and idles fine. Sometimes sounds as if its not firing on all cylinders but it quickly sorts itself out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B27IOtnrv4I Warm Starts - immediate engine restarts are generally fine. When it's been sat (anywhere between 20mins and 3 hours) it starts like a dog. Turns over but doesn't catch. If I open up the throttle, it will eventually catch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5unpWvFs1iI So, assuming there's no air leaks and the injectors aren't leaking, what could cause it? Head temp sensors are currently reading 178, 156, 170 when hot. WUR, accumulator possibly?
Does anyone in Bristol have a Fuel Pressure Gauge I could borrow for a short while!? I've read through the guide in the FAQ's and that all looks fine. What would you expect to see, pressure wise, if a WUR was knackered? Could it just require adjusting to sort itself?
ive got some specs somewhere ...i'll look it up and pm you theres some scope of ajusting certain things...get it tested and take it from there
Hi Dan, Got your PM, not had chance to reply yet - will have a think on it and report back when I get a minute. Like PB says, you can short cut a lot of messing around and trial and error by using a fuel pressure gauge to diagnose the issue. I presume you've checked the timing? Crank to cam (belt), cam to cam (unlikely to change as it's a chain) and ignition timing (dizzy position)? There's an FAQ on here somewhere on that, definitely worth checking to rule out timing as an issue. Cheers Stu
Hi Stu - any help is much appreciated! The car is actually at a local garage now. Talking to PB, it could be a number of things and without a fuel pressure gauge, it was easiest for a specialist to do the usual checks. Will update this thread when I get a report from the garage.
hello, my car (same engine) is experiencing the same issue as yours. I was going to give it a full check but last week I burnt both hands with fire so I will keep reading your post until I can work in my piece of iron...
Just rung the garage and they've told there was a small split in one of the thin vacuum pipes which I must have missed it! If replacing it has fixed it, then I feel like a bit of a plum Anyway, he's leaving it to cool and will continue to start it up now and then to check it.
how can I check vaccum pipes? I mean, may be at a simple look they seem fine but they aren't..... I can't explain what I mean
vac pipes are cheap...cheaper than garage costs buy some new stuff and replace all of it...the cars are old now and most have ropey vac hoses
A subtle dig there I imagine. Anyway, it's not neccessarily solved it so they are still testing it etc.
not a dig , but it makes sense to change all the service bits n bobs and cheap stuff like that, then the garage are free to get the alkward stuff we cant do at home
Just picked up the car - he didn't charge me even though he's been checking it for days and replacing some of the vacuum pipes. It's hard to say whether it's fixed it, but I'll keep using it. He did say that at no point did he have to give it throttle to fire - something that I had to do before, so fingers crossed...
Correction, it's not fixed. Started it up 30 minutes after a drive and it was a bit naff to fire. It doesn't always need throttle to start, as it does eventually catch. Just ordered some new vacuum pipes which it probably could do with anyway. Have also bought a fuel pressure gauge so I can find out what the WUR is doing.
Off ebay - 13 or so. Have also bought some braided fuel lines, so the plan is to fit them and then butcher two of the current non-braided ones with the fuel pressure gauge in between.
There you are mate. As I said, I'll cut up an old WUR fuel line and with a bit of rubber hosing, attach the fuel pressure gauge inbetween. Updates WUR cold resistance is only reading 16ohms - this should be nearer 26ohms? I removed the CSV and blocked the hole. It fired up instantly and the best its EVER fired up from stone cold. CSV did spray fuel which suggests to me that its often been overfuelling on cold fire up because usually its a bit lumpy. I might run the car with the CSV power detached. I also replaced the ISV with another I had - no idea if there's been a change. Lastly, I swapped around the ECU temp and dash temp wires. Any comments?
