With this golf seeming like its a tad sluggish, it seems to be a little better when the engine is cold. Could this be the Blue temp sensor on its way out? Just a thought.
vagcom will tell you if the sensor is dead if you dont have vagcom get a multimeter on the sensor and measure the resistance across the pins in the past i put up a table for the vaules.... search for abf temp sensor and youll find it or CTS
Been trying to connect vagcom up to my car tonight and it searches for the engine controller, tries 4 times and then says it cannot connect to the controller. Had a few tries this evening to connect but its not having any of it. Where abouts are the sensors on the engine as i can't seem to see any when i had a look over earlier. Cheers Nick
If you are using an ancient opto isolated lead then early ABF ECUs are real trouble to connect to but I guess you are using one of the blue leads from EBAY... Matt will probably provide a link to the drivers and you can use the below to get it up and running: Determine the correct "Port" setting Open the Device Manager and determine which COM Port the cable is using and make sure it occupies its own COM Port. This is the COM Port setting you use when you "Test" the interface in the Vag-Com software setup. Plug the Vag-Com Cable into an available USB port on your computer. Now open the "Device Manager". Open the "Control Panel", click the "System" icon, in the "Hardware" tab Click "Device Manager". In the Console Tree, double click "Ports (COM & LPT)" Verify that the device "USB KKL Interface VCP" has its own COM Number that is not in use by another port. If you need to change it, double click the device, click the "Port Settings" tab, click "Advanced", then change the "COM Port Number". Make a note of the COM Port number for setting the Vag-Com software. Testing the COM Port in the Vag-Com Software Plug the cable into the computer and into your vehicles socket. *Turn the ignition on.!!!! Start the VAG-COM software. Click the [Options] button. In the "Select COM Port" box, select the "COM Port" that the device uses as displayed in the Device Manager. * The USB option is only available for Ross-Tech made USB Cables. Click the [Test] button. It should display "Interface Status: Found!".If this test is not successful check the following: Other software or devices using USB ports or the same COM Port could be conflicting. To troubleshoot, Uninstall suspected software. It will not work on vehicles with the CAN-BUS System. The cable must be plugged into the vehicle with the ignition on. Try each COM Port from 1-4 in Windows Device Manager. Check that the driver is installed and configured as outlined above. Troubleshooting Solutions to the most common problems. For more detailed troubleshooting, see the User's Manual above. First, make sure all directions above for installing driver files and configuring the COM Port where performed. Make sure your using software Version 311.2 or 409.1 from http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/download/archives.html (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/download/archives.html). Install "For the Twin-USB Interface" Make sure your using the item on a VW, Audi, Skoda or Seat vehicle. Service Pack 1 for Windows 2000 adversely affects VAG-COM's ability to do real-time and makes communications with some controllers unreliable. If using Windows 2000 with Service Pack 1, you should apply Service Pack 2 or Service Pack 3. If when you try to connect to a control module, it won't connect or you get the error message "Can't Synch Baud Rate", go to the Options Screen and try setting the Start Baud to 9600. If 9600 doesn't work, also try 4800 and 1200. Turn the car's ignition OFF and back ON after each failed attempt to connect! Ross-tech does have some info and troubleshooting: Common Diagnostic Procedures: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/index.html (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/index.html) Other known issues: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/issues.html (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/issues.html)I think i forgot to select the right port:zx11: I found changine these settings got my lead and software to talk to the car: FTDI suggestions: HI decided to call FTDI this afternoon and the guy there was massively helpful if walking me through the changes. He also advised another couple: In the "Advanced settings for [COM 1 (or other port that is selected)], under: USB Transfer Sizes, change "Receive (Bytes)" to 64 BM Options, change "Latency Timer (msec)" to 3
http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM 2.04.16 WHQL Certified.zip right click save as http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm its been updated again in feb 09 woop woop
Hope so mate, will up date the laptop when i get home tonight and have a look. Been out at lunch to pick up new breather hose from VW and when engine is cold the rev counter is steady but the engine seems quite lumpy.
My mate has been over tonight and plugged his diagnostic tool into my car as i still can't get vagcom to work at moment and it come back saying both knock sensors have intermittent signal. We cleared the faults, went for a drive and so far they haven't returned. Would this be dirty connections or are the knock sensors dying? Cheers Nick
Don't take the trumpet out as without it the air just inside the induction tube will be very turbulent, and the air will make it's own trumpet which will be smaller than the tube diameter. Not good.
I agree that the air needs smoothing out as airflow tends to move towards the edges of intake pipes.... which is why i have a 60mm air trumpet in there now... The standard horn is too restrictive at 40mm though, and poorly positioned in the airbox. i really could notice the difference
i thought the idea of the venturi was to increase the speed of the incoming air. if you put a larger trumpet on, youll keep the air flow smoothish but lose the speed, and i cant think how that would effect the engine... shame it would have to kill the airbox to find out
Its not really a venturi though is it... A true venturi gradually increases the pressure on an airflow enhancing the velocity through narrowing the diameter of the pipe The venturi effect is in the throttle body unless you have bored yours out The thing in the airbox only smooths airflow, and the diameter of the pipe gradually increases
bored out throttle on mine im really tired at the moment, but in theory, should a larger trumpet make a positive difference?
