Thanks for your reply Azur, The isv definitely doesn't buzz as it should when the ignition is on position 2. When cruising in third of forth gear about 1.5k-2k when you put your foot down it seems as though it is holding back and get a few judders upto about 2.5-3k then it'll take off. Sometimes first thing in morning it'll seem really flat too.
my isv didnt work for the first few months i got the car, not sure how it idled at all, but i think it just poured fuel in
Lol.. Its not an 8v! If i put my foot down at 1.5k in 4th nothing would happen at all! In a 16v you probably have about 40bhp under your toe at those revs The pick up you talk about at 2.5-3k sounds like when air starts flowing boths side of the throttle body butterfly. Untill then it squeezes under the bottom edge and it is further restricted by the ramp on the manifold side. You can bore this out to match the gasket and it makes an improvement lower down. remember that the 16v reaches peak torque at 5000 rpm! The hesitation is probably your car struggling not to stall
6krpm and it was decided in a thread a couple years ago that 16v engines are so torqueless that driving through town is a real chore yup
is it 6k? most dyno plots i have seen have it seems to fall between 5-5.5k. peak power is usually 6.3-6.6k i think lol... i would't say the 16v is torque less... its got more torque than 8v's... you just never get to use it as you would have to be doing 50 around town in 2nd to find it
whatever @ the more torque than an 8v. thats mathematically impossible. mine does peak torque at about 6k and then max power at 6.4k. at 6.5-6.7 ive still got over 140lbft, from memory
Oh yeah... i forgot that 8v's have their own gravity well 6k hey? Then again, according to GTECH your car is faster than a speeding bullet
Correct... Remove the tube thingy and you may well loose throttle response at 1500 RPM (so what...I have a bored out TB anyway...so I've already lost that) but the bigger inlet gives more air at the top end. I have a 3" inlet (subwoofer port) into my airbox, with the inside gutted and the tube thingy removed and the outlet from the airbox smoothed out...and it was worth a couple of BHP (2-3) dyno proven and repeatable...so it must do something. With a standard airbox back on it feels wheezy and strained at the top end.
hey, the top of the air box, im tempted to modify the venturi at the top bin that, but does anyone know the size of the hole that is left in its place? i might try and get a bell mouth at the top of that. recon its still 60mm?
what are the symptoms of a dying ecu temp sensor, been trying to find the thread with the resistances on by Matt but can't seem to find it anywhere. Would like to see a pic of the inside of Ess Three's airbox to see how its all been smoothed out.
i think he just got rid of the warm air flap thing as for dead ecu temp sensor, the idle will be lumpy. the spark plugs will be black. ive got a feeling its hard work to start it when its warm too
http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=158519&highlight=abf+mods+decat pics are on there, scroll down a bit
Been outside at lunch with the test meter and the cts resistances are out of spec as per the data you posted Matt, looks like i may need a new 1.
Bu**er, completely forgot to check that . Will do it when i get home tonight and will re-check the resistances on the cts. Cheers Matt
Checked the voltage to the plug for the cts and am getting bang on 5v. The cts resistances are only just within tolerance at 90C and slowly the resistance drops and by 70C its below the lowest value given in the table.
You really need a thermometer to check it. Ideally one that is the infrared type. Put it in the freezer too. The water temp is usally different to the oil temp display. How are you confirming the temperature?
