Even though i have fiddled with my TB i left the venturi effect there in essence. The larger diameter trumpet does nothing accept reduce the turbulence as the air flows smoothy over the rim instead of getting battered
Lol... i love the way the other thread is debating rocket science and flowbench figures to exact figures and we are debating the merits of shoving a piece of plastic in the airbox which to all extents probably does absolutely nothing! Sigh.. us MK3 Noobs! Rofl
We should club together & send him an ABF airbox- check flow with standard resonator, without & a modified one. Think the standard designs main purpose is to damp induction noise tho. Could be checked by comparing the x-sectional area of the resonator, working out how much laminar air it will flow (or bench it) and then correlate that with how much air is required to make x power given a ballpark bsfc?? efficiency? ^^love the fluid dynamics diagram; I aint done any of that for a LONG time Incidentally, where did U pick up the 60mm item as Ive been hunting for one for ages. Got any pics?
any progress on the lumpyness when the engines cold? mine does the exact same thing . . . changing blue (well its white actually) ecu temp sensor and plugs helped slightly but it still does it a bit.
I found this on mine was caused by a dodgy coil. It was confusing because once warm it would be fine. I also had starting problems though. When i worked out that on cold damp mornings it was worse i realised the coil had a low resistance because of the damp conditions and could not step up the voltage like it should. Moisture was entering somewhere and causing this. but heat from the engine once running dried it out. Took a while to figure it out because it was intermittent.
when its cold, do you sometimes try to accelerate and it stutters? if so, ive sorted that in the past by putting a drop of oil down the fuel pressure reg.
yeah it did used to do that- would notice it most going up the uphill sliproad i have to use to get on the m2- would stutter under load. I oiled the FPR as you've described before (tip- dont try to get the FPR out of the fuel rail- results in a faceful of fuel, thankfully my glasses protected my eyes!) which sorted the stuttering under load but its still lumpy when on fast idle- and is much worse on cold days and *almost* ok on recent warm days. coil thing makes sence- ive got a spare coil in the garage so i'll swap that over.
hey kids look through this gallery http://evoposters.net/gallery/main....fe8&g2_fromNavId=xc9429b42&g2_navId=x5a00bfe8 there is info about various sensors. i want to re adjust my throttle properly. i think ive got it open too much
cheers for that matt. my vagcom lead is still in the packet, might have to lose my vagcom virginity this weekend and see if i can scan it. hopefully windows vista wont be too gay otherwise ill have to go pinch my girlfriends laptop for the day
My mate come over last night and plugged his diagnostic tool into my car as i still can't get vagcom to work at moment and it come back saying both knock sensors have intermittent signal. We cleared the faults, went for a drive and so far they haven't returned. Would this be dirty connections or are the knock sensors dying? How do i test the coil pack, for example it still stutters when i'm in third gear and floor it, after 2-2.5k it is fine and revs right through the range like a t**t. What size is the spark plug socket, all mine are too big to fit down the hole
Also it takes a few seconds of cranking over to start, doesn't need any throttle to start but it does take a few seconds to start everytime.
Fair enough Matt, so it won't be a coil problem then. I read one of your threads from ages ago (prob when you first got your valver) which had similar symptoms to what i have where it revs fine after 2.5k.
not a coil, i put a new one on and it didnt cure it. where ive sprayed cleaners etc in the throttle ive found that when i crank it it started immediately, making me think its a fuel issue as for the 2.5krpm issue, that was the timing being knocked back, the fuel pressure reg was stuck and was cured with a bit of oil in the fpr
Why don't you do some water manometer testing? I have one a bit like this: http://www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle/manometer.html with a tape measure attached to it so I can measure "inches of water" I need to cut it down to fit the Corrado I made it AGES ago for my WRX, it has a flat base that sits on the passenger side floor and the top is fixed to the sun visor with a zip tie. Then use windscreen washer pipe (it's dirt cheap) and bits of brake pipe held in with RTV and you can measure all sorts of interesting stuff! Really takes the guesswork out of sorting your intake system even were to mount the intake for best pressure... Cheers Simon Oh an 1" of water is 0.036 psi so it's capable of measuring VERY small changes
Hi chaps, been busy this weekend working on the golf, have done a service and replaced the dizzy cap, spark plugs, oil, filter, air filter and fuel filter, replaced all vac pipes, sprayed some WD40 in the FPR and took the throttle body off and gave it a good clean as it was all gunked up. I still have the slight hesitance between 1.5-2.5k revs, any ideas what could be causing the prob? The old spark plugs looked as though at some point the ECU had been in safe mode as around the bottom of the threads were sooty but the prongs seemed normal. As i've had the TB off should i disconnect the battery so the ecu can reset itself have read somewhere before that it should be done. Cheers
Hi guys, just been out looking over my engine after reading a few posts, turned the ignition on and can't hear the ISV buzzing, could this be causing my problems?
You would know if the ISV wasn't working as your idle would be all over the place. It regulates airflow went the TB is shut so it shouldn't cause a lack of power. when it feels sluggish does it juddered at all? I had this and it was (is) the ECU relay. Its the bottom right one of four in the middle of the fuse box above the fuses with 30 or 36 on it. Very occasionally my engine judders between 2.5-3k then is fine. I just reach down and push the relay in further at the top as i thinks its just a problem with how it is seated in the fusebox and it sorts itself instantly.
