As title bought this quite tidy mk5 gti a few weeks back.lowish miler with good history upto 80k car is now on 104k. Good interior with minimal wear.and the awesome dsg box. It's not perfect but I plan to get it somewhere close.but at sub 3k I'm not complaining. List of jobs full service.(done) New cambelt (done) New springs (got still to do) Shocks (got still to do) Body repairs (some done already) But all minor. New rear brakes(to do) Porsche upgrades on front (dont need doing) New door locks(one done and one to do) Polished weathered headlights(done) A light project really. Someone on here may know this car has spent its early years around Aberdeen. Spent the last 5 or 6 years around Heathrow area.
Thanks a cracking drive too.why I havnt bought one of these before now.they are a lot of car.but I think I stole it tbh.
A couple of my handywork pics I've had some experience with a spray gun. Got a good match too which wasnt easy. h
Always! One of the first jobs I do on any modern vw...when I got my passat it was de-foamed the first day I got it.foam was sodden.dryed out arches with heatgun(carefully).then hammerite the inner lips of arch.do it to all my cars will never rot.
Great project. Sad to see the mk5 is rusting the same a mk3 - I had similar things to deal with on my mk3 16v - either end of sills, bottom of A pillars, arch. Keep up the good work though as I am sure these will become modern classics.
Yes gotta get them quick really or the rust dont take long to become a real issue. I usually take back as much as I can with high speed wire wheel.then apply that hamerite (milky)rust treatment that turns black.then I apply 2k primer,then rough up the primer a bit without breaking through to bare metal.fill,prime again then paint.long winded but always works for me and never comes back.
That's the best you can do really and it will last many many years and save the rot from totalling the car. I've learnt how to weld on mine but they are 10-15 years older and I bet if someone took the kind of preventative mainteance you have they would not need mig love. I do similar to you where metal is still good enough -wire wheel -kyrust/hydrate 80 - milky stuff -epoxy primer (not porous like etch -if I have welded I use seam sealer over the welds (grind back a bit with flap wheel first) -epoxy again -gravitex for stonechip (can brush on and dimple) -colour -laq Other things I do and you might be interested in for rust protection - I have an air compressor and that is needed for this - dinitrol cavity wax and I apply dinitrol 4941 black over the underbody if i want a uniform look. I only apply to the body, not subframes etc. Otherwise lanoguard is a great DIY product. Spray it in cavivites, behind the black GTI trims on the body if you have them off, behind door cards into the sills - spray everywhere really. It provides a clear finish and also seaps into any surface that might be on a subframe and locks the elements out. It's like a wax but better - doesn't need heating, can apply in winter, it's a natural product made from lanolin so won't damage rubbers etc and you really can just spray it everywhere for rust protection.
Yes gonna do some of that too.ive got compressor and I think a wax gun.i want to use like factory type waxy yellow stuff what is it? I've done s few vws and tbh I've lost interest In projects that require panel work/welding Just find it a bit much now so surface rust is all I want on any projects now. The bloke who sold me this mk5 sold it cheap really as it had issues.body some minor bubbling.passenger seat wouldnt move(fixed it in 5 mins)cloudy headlights polished out in 2 hours. Airbag light soon to be dealt with. New rear brakes,short mot,corroded springs and shocks.just a car that needs a bit of love And a £1000.
I'm not sure on the factory wax brand but this stuff is simlar and pretty good for cavities https://www.dinitroldirect.com/product/dinitrol-ml-1ltr-cavity-wax/ This is lanoguard - you can spreay it everywhere underneath and in cavities as well - it's clear. I use it as a top up but many just use this and top off every couple of years. All wax and rust protection products need topping off now and again, especially on impact areas like jack points. https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/collections/moto If you apply Krust to things like the subframe / wishbones and then spray over lanoguard you'll get a nice black finish (once Krust has dried).
Seems like what I need. Whatever vw use is hard to get rid off when you dont want it.i wonder if vw do supply top up factory wax.
Looks ok from that angle, change it if the DLC coating has worn through. From R tech. 1: The TFSI engine uses a high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) system which runs on the inlet cam via a cam follower. The HPFP followers are prone to wearing and causing fuel issues which can lead to engine damage. We advice to have the fuel pump cam follower changed before mapping and at every major service. The follower only costs around £29 from a main dealer. The cam follower part number is 06D109309R The picture below illustrates the wearing process of the HPFP cam follower stage1 follower is the stage of wear where you want to change it before causing damage leave it too late and the follower will end up like the follower show at stage4 the point where metal parts break off and go into the engine, the inlet cam gets damaged and the fuel pump piston get worn down beyond repair, If you let the cam follower get to stage4 damage then the repair bill could end up close on £2000!!! So keep on top of the follower and replace it every major service. NOTE !!!! You want to catch your follower just BEFORE stage 1 level of wear. You want to see the follower without any silver showing on the face Stage 1 should be safe and not damage to the cam. Stage 2 and 3 you will need and to inspect the cam make sure no damage, there have been cases where the cam is worn and damaged Stage 4 will need a full strip down new cam and fuel pump, cam cover cleaned and sump cleaned
Black coating was gone on the follower. Also put a metal rule over the face of the follower not a very technical way if checking but it was "dished" as I could see daylight gap.so not the worst but it wasnt going back in even more so after removing that well awkward banjo on fuel line working upside down trying to undo a nut you cant even see Nightmare but did it. Now a bigger headache doing rear brakes why are them carrier m14 so big and so tight completly over the top imo.had a quick go at them today no luck.doused in wd40 and left tonight to soak try again tomorrow. If not gonna have to reassemble and get a garage to crack em on a ramp.ive never struggled with any carriers but these mk5s are something else. Follower was at stage 2 I reckon now changed.
Rear n/s brake and carrier removed m14 were a nightmare to get off took a lot of patience and a couple of hours(no joke) Also removed spring,shock.well past it got new stuff to go on.wire brushed all back end There seems to be a lot of surface rust on Just about everything at the rear.think it's been in a lake lol. All getting painted with hamerite.
Great job Nas. I've seen a lot mk5s like that now re surface rust. Yours is not the worst by a long shot but I can see it's getting a bit of surface rust on the floorpan/body in the background so a good idea to get that sorted and protected. Nothing you can't do to stop it now though and good idea on an enamel based paint - are you going to strip it all off the car to do it? An alternative could be wire brush, krust or equivalent, then spray lanoguard over it if leaving it in situ. You good the black look and the benefit of lanoguard soaking into the corroded metal and creating an air tight / waterproof seal. If going the enamel route I would still apply a top coating of lano or equiv (i prefer lano) to stop it chipping and seal it up.
I.dont seem to have any rear brake backing plates.i take it they rotted away and never got replaced.does anyone run without them or is it a no no.not bothered either way...tbh im struggling to find any.if anyone knows where I can get 282mm plates be welcome as I can only seem to find 256mm ones. Didnt think they would be difficult to get. Anyone got a part number.thanks
