Expect to pay around about 500-600 for a properly re-built box. PArts alone are nearly 400 i think. I pay 150 for a 2nd hand box including fitting.
A complete set of parts, excluding the diff bolts come to around 250-300, I've done this a few times and this is all it costs. If there has been any mechanical failure then you'll have to budget for those to. But, If it's just the usual bearing seals, gaskets and synchros then thats all it costs. Depending on who does it will depend on the labour charge.
So is it right to say that either the 9a or 6a are good for a 16V 2L conversion? Or is the 9a more favourable? Is it just the 2L Passat that will contain these engines?
Hotgolf - got your PM, cheers but I'm up in Cheshire so quite a way from you Looks like a 2nd 'box is going to work out cheaper, I expect it's tricky to find a decent one though?
Think if you use a 6A Audi lump you need to fit the KR sump etc.. 9A also found in late Corrado 16v (Early Corrado 16v are 1800)
The exhaust cam has roughly 2mm more lift than an inlet cam.You can fit a exhaust cam in place of inlet cam for a very good power increase.I recently done it to my mates valver and it is amazing.No change in tickover,No loss in low down torque,it actually gets rid of 4k kickin,and comes in strong from 2 and half k then really spanks you at 5k OH YES If you want more info pm me as i have a cam ready modded
Gary - Would a full engine from a 2.0 16v Corrado be the same as taking a 9a Block and fitting my 1.8 KR head, cams etc etc to it, or is the head different somehow? What's the bhp & torque on a standard 2.0 16v 'Raddo engine? I thought they were ABF like Mk3 Golfs... must reference my 'VW Power & Style' book!
I beleieve if you fit 9a your best off with the kr cams as they are a slightly wilder profile due to silly emission laws.Im sure GVK will inlighten you as he has done this
Stu - the 9A head has smaller inlet ports than the KR head, but larger exhaust ports, so it gives more torque VW had to do something to gain low end torque on their 2 litre 16v as the 1800 as we all know, hasn't got much I fitted the 9A complete, but with the KR cams, and KR fuel injection, the 9A has a refined form of mechanical injection with knock control etc. If you fit the 9A fuel system, you've got to frig about with wiring, by using the KR stuff, the engine is a straight swap. You only need change the inlet cam as the exhaust cams are the same, I fitted both cams as they had odd/different chain wheels to the ones in the motor. VW as we know are conservative with their power figures, a well set up 1800 will produce 150bhp ( factory 139) - Mine showed 171bhp at Stealth the other week with 151 lb/ft of torque (1800 KR will produce around 125 lb/ft) - weird thing is VW only state the 9A gives 136bhp - In the cars it is fitted to it comes with a cat and very mild cams If you decide to fit the KR head to a 9A you'll see a gain in top end power, but torque will no doubt suffer - depends what you want and the way you use the car
Really considering it. I have fitted a well reconditioned KR head in mine and after doing that, I have this nagging desire to overhaul the entire lot before getting it into Stealth. There's nothing wrong with the 100K mile standard KR block as far as I am aware and it probably has lots of life left in it. But at the same time I like the idea of taking the whole lot out and reconditioning everything, and if I'm doing that then why not put a 2L bottom in with my KR head. If I could still expect to get good gains even if I continue to use the KR head then that's what I'd probably do, since I think it's a good KR head that I've got. I'd use the 9a block and as much as the rest of the KR setup as possible. I don't know if overhauling a 9a engine block is something I'd be capable of doing, or how expensive it could be.
All depends how far you want to go Trev, obviously if you start re-boring it and fitting new pistons it'll cost a fortune and you might as well buy a new block from VAG. I'd estimate you'll get about 175-180bhp from yours with it's flowed head and 9A bottom end with set up from Stealth.
That sounds very encouraging, and I'm really settled on the idea now I really like the 16V and I feel that with that kind of power increase, I will always be more than happy with it. I was asking what cars had the 9a so that I can ask the scrappie to keep a lookout for me. So presumably if I get hold of a 9a block that doesn't require anything more than new seals / bearings etc then it sounds like quite a straightforward job to do. I guess the next stage after that would be to consider putting in a different management system etc.
Going different managment is all well and good if you want to run throttle bodies but you can get nearly 200bhp from K-Jet (Barny's 16v 2 litre with 276s is 194!) Ok a car with managment will have better driveability with the big cams needed for that power than one with K-Jet but you're looking at 'a lot of money' for EMS and Tb's
Cheers for the info Gary - seriously considering the 2 litre option, need to source the bits and pieces and then wait for some better weather to do the swap! Anyone know where I could pick up a nice low-mileage 9a engine then...? Would it be worth fitting other new parts if swapping the engine - engine mounts, clutch etc? I was thinking of a re-conditioned gearbox anyway. Edited by: StuB
Its always worth fitting new parts whilts its in pieces, obviously the clutch as the lump is out and readily accesable. Engine mounts are take a leak easy to change as the engine isnt sat on em !!! The two litre swap really is very easy to do, very straight forward and gives you so much more drivability to your car, the torque it can produce is jusy loverly!! Generally 160-170 bhp and around 140-150 lbft of torque, its not a huge jump but it feel massive when driving the car. Speedo has done a few and i have done mine and its really well worth doing. If its something you cant do then i doubt it will cost too much with a half decent garage as it just pops straight in. The other option is to us an ABF from a later car, essentially the same with the added bonus of lower mileages. Same if not very close power and torque and as garry says very tunable !! And everything fits from your car Everything
Got my box rebuilt at Stealth - didnt know about 800g's then - cost 1100 but that also had a quaife diff put in. Think a drive in drive out price was 450+vat
