My 2.0 ABF Dyno run. Power seems down and AFR is high.

Discussion in 'K-Jetronic OEM injection' started by Nige, Mar 3, 2009.

  1. seanlazyass Forum Member

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    Im not sure if anyone has answered this Nige but don't unplug the lift pump. All it'll do is strain your main pump (possibly causing it to fail) and will stop the car from reving properly under load. If your lift pump is dodgy then you'll hear the main pump struggling.

    I don't think this is your problem but I've got a spare lift pump you can borrow if its any help?

    Sean
     
  2. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    I agree in an ideal world I would test each part and see the difference. I started work at 5:30am, arrived home at 6pm, picked up Brooksters Metering head, new injectors and wur and he asked me to leave them alone as they are working fine.

    Assuming the guy who removed the parts from his broken car to loan me to test were working because he said they were wasn`t unreasonable IMO.

    I was working on the car until 11pm, went to bed, up at 5am, work then drove to silverstone, so I didn`t have the luxury of spending hours testing / setting up each part.

    The car had been setup to give 140HP at 6000rpm, with an afr of round 14.5 (ish) on the last run on the RR. I then put in some octane booster to increase the det range.

    First session I revved to 5k max, came in after 3 laps and checked the plugs, nice brown colour. Did another session at 6k, again checked the plugs and still Light brown with no detonation audible. I did the same all day, never revved over 6k, checked plugs after each session and they were brown each time. I only did 15 minute sessions and after each one I let the car cool and checked the plug colours :thumbup:

    Not touching the car over the weekend and then monday i`m checking the fulpump as per the method above, hopefully that will be the problem and an easy fix :)
     
  3. Brookster

    Brookster Paid Member Paid Member

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    Last edited: Mar 6, 2009
  4. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Following this info, I tested the pump this morning

    Job No.1 when working with fuel, well ventilated area and a Fire Extinguisher to hand
    [​IMG]

    Measure battery voltage at fuel pump with engine off.
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    [​IMG]


    The connection next to the metering head is solid, so I disconnected the return line near the fuel pump instead.
    [​IMG]

    Secure line into a suitable measuring container
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    TURN OFF / DISCONNECT BATTERY !!

    Remove Fuel pump relay
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    I made length of wire with 2 spade connectors and put into 2 large slots to simulate the relay
    [​IMG]

    Prepare stopwatch, Reconnect battery and let fuel run for for 30 seconds.

    Measure amount of fuel in container (1050 ml in my case)
    [​IMG]

    Unfortunately, from looking at the above data, it suggests my fuel pump / filter is fine [:^(] . As a check, I disconnected the lift pump and repeated the above test, after 5-10 seconds, the note of the main pump changed, the fuel stopped flowing and I immediately stopped it, but that (I think ?) proves the lift pump is working too.

    Dissapointed to be honest, I was certain that was the issue.

    I have an AFR coming tomorrow, also spare fuel pump and lift pump, I`ll fit that and see what I can find, but I`m running out of ideas...
     
  5. Deako Paid Member Paid Member

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    I have a couple of spare non modified WURs if you want to try them Nige? Not far from you either.
     
  6. paul_c Forum Member

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    It still might be. The above test can only test the pump while delivering negligable pressure. Once supplying the fuel system, its delivering 5 bar or so of pressure. So it still could be the fuel pump, or filter(s). I suspect there is a gradual wear of the fuel pump (which isn't the issue in itself) but that the many microfilters on the system (depends on year, over time they added more and more) are partially blocked, which all compromises the operation of the pump at high pressure/high flowrate.
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the pump is supplying 5bar of pressure though, regardless of engine running or not it still has to maintain 5 bar pressure inside the metering head. however the flow under load might be the issue here, when the engine is running it has to maintain 5 bar as well as supply the injectors with fuel :)
     
  8. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thats what I`m hoping too.. As I said, I`ll have a replacement pump tomorrow and will fit that to see what happens.

    I`ve also ordered an AFR Gauge which will be fitted in the morning, so that should help :thumbup:
    [​IMG]
     
  9. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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  10. prof Forum Addict

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  11. Brookster

    Brookster Paid Member Paid Member

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  12. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Hmm... the pump looks to be working ok then. I suppose it could be an idea to swap it out just to be sure. This is probably a daft question, but are you sure it's the right type of pump? If it was ok for a long time (all the trackdays you've done), it shouldn't be the issue, but it might be an idea to check.
     
  13. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Mike,

    I will check, but as you say, its been fine for 8,000+ track miles, so I think its the correct type.
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    looking at the pictures I'm pretty sure its the right one as I can see the accumulator :)
     
  15. s1m0n Forum Member

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    Pump looks right to me too, looks like your going to have to test it under load though.

    Exactly! Static test's can only tell you so much...

    I would suggest a pressure gauge tapped into the back of the main supply banjo, run it up under load (say 3rd or 4th) and this will prove/disprove that you have sufficient fuel at the metering head (entry point).

    If it fails this test you know that one of the pumps is "tired" or one of the filters is semi blocked.

    Cheers

    Simon
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2009
  16. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    SUCCESS :thumbup:

    First job was to fit the AFR. Remove exhaust, chain drill and remove hole for sensor boss
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    Clean hole with grinding wheel attachment
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    By puttung the attachment through the hole and using the shoulder, I was able to clean the underside of the hole and remove the bits of metal pushed through when I drilled
    [​IMG]

    Welded on Boss
    [​IMG]

    Fit sensor and refit exhaust
    [​IMG]

    Wired up the AFR and fitted it into the dash.
    [​IMG]

    Refitted my Metering head, WUR and injectors, Went for a drive and the AFR was pretty similar to the rolling road. There is a good road nearby, straight, so I can accelerate in 2nd, left foot brake to hold the revs at what I want under full load, to give the AFR time to stabilise (to be honest, it doesn`t need it, it reacts so quickly anyway). Saved reading from 3,000 > 7,000 in 500rpm increments.

    Fitted the loan metering head and new injectors, went for a run and also tested the flow through the injectors into 4 containers with the metering flap fully open. Measured out the fuel into a container and marked the level for each injector.(no photo)

    Returned home, swapped injectors for my old ones and repeated both the driving test and also measuring the fuel into a container. The spray pattern isn`t quite as good as the new ones, flow rate is the same.
    [​IMG]

    Showing amount dispensed over 1 minute by each injector
    [​IMG]

    I then removed all the unwanted plumbing, the over-run cut off valve, ISV, everything from the inlet manifold. All that is left is the Panel filter > Metering Head > Throttle. The vac connection on the back of the engine feeds the Servo, ECU and Speedo for the MPG reading. I also left the vac connection to the WUR connected.

    Going for a test drive and I found the AFR had dropped across the range by over 0.6 at every point on the scale. The only problem is from 6,500 > 7,000 where it rises from 13.6 > 14.1 . I`m going to fit the old injectors tomorrow and do a run just for completeness.

    [​IMG]

    Basically, my metering head is knackered. My injectors are not perfect, but are OK. Currently scanning the classifieds for a 2nd hand Metering Head, i`ve sent a few PM`s so hopefully one is still for sale.

    They may only be about 15, but the damn things can cause some problems [:x]

    Thanks for all the advice on what to check, it was obvious once I started swapping things with the AFR in the car :thumbup:
     
  17. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    Glad you got it sorted Nige. I think I've got a spare metering head if you can't find one.
     
  18. s1m0n Forum Member

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    Excellent, glad to hear your all sorted, there really is no substitute for a wideband

    Cheers

    Simon

    Edit - You know, for the sake of 5 mins I'd pull the lifter pump / level sender assembly from the tank and have a good look in there with a lead-light, just to be sure you don't have a load of grunge in the tank waiting to "attack" your new metering head (when you get it)
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2009
  19. Brookster

    Brookster Paid Member Paid Member

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    Good news Nige, finally got there.

    [​IMG]

    i need to buy a Wideband set - up now too let me know were you got your kit. Looks like a very good purchase.

    Also Nice to know my K-Jet parts are working fine, just need the engine to fit them back onto.

    it always did run rich.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2009
  20. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Ebay Link to AFR for 195

    As i`ve said to you, I REALLY appreciate you loaning me your setup, made my life so much easier :thumbup:
     

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