My efr 7064 big turbo build, will be pic heavy

Hi toyotec, I'm planning on just using nuts and bolts. Just for ease and not worry about shearing a stud.

All the cam stuff has gone over my head????
I'm just winging it and hoping for the best really???? I want to keep just under 7k max rpm with about 30psi boost and obviously have it powerful as possible for strip use. I've got a 3 map switch for inside the cab...map 1 about 300 map 2 400 and map 3 550.

That's my aim anyhow.

 

Studs shear if they are the wrong material and thickness, hence my question.

In summary to the cam stuff, much more to it than "best branding". Leave the stock cams fitted.

Drag racing optimisation is about keeping gearing such that you can pass the traps in your highest gear at the max bhp.
So if you wish for a 7000 rpm limit, you have to design your hardware to work with this boundary condition. ( ignoring streetability for now)

 

Hi guys, sorry for the disappearance. Right here goes, these pictures are starting from december 2016. The block has been away to be bored out to 82mm and acid dipped and hot washed.



I have plastigauged the cranked and was within wear limits.

 

crank in and all torqued up

 

wiseco low comp pistons



worst job in the world, gapping rings



pistons in

 

stripped the head



Marked exhaust ports, ready to port and polish ' ******* motorsport' stylee!!







Came out well, removed a fair bit of material and polished up using a mandrel on a 240v die grinder and different emery cloth grades, twas a very messy job.

 

Got my obx lsd back from Martin aka 'hotgolf' top work



Anybody spot the mistake

 

Drilled the pulley to take 3mm hardened steel dowels

 

made a crank holding tool and installed the arp bolt

 

got 02j casings back from powder coaters and installed new bearings on the diff and set about measuring end play, my readings were 0.80 play with the 0.40 constant..so 1.20 shim needed. Damn i had to buy a full set of shims from vw



Started on the intercooler, this beast's ports were hitting the mk1 caddy head light metal work. so had to cut the end off to tig on angled piece and weld on a new bead( no laughing at my tig welding, as i've just started t learn





welded on some brackets at the bottom to carry the radiator



welded on a boss to carry the new delphi map sensor, as i'm converting to wideband... no maf

 

Made a start on the exhaust manifold using 1.5" schedule 10 stainless

 

these arrived this week after waiting 5 weeks, catcams 1013658



complimented by supertech heavyduty spring kit, vernier pulley and an arp flywheel bolt kit

 

and thats where i'm at currently, i'll update frequently now.

 

Good update ! Mice work on the manifold, they are fiddling but rewarding to make aren`t they

Why is the MAP sensor on the intercooler and not on the plenum ?

 

Apparently they're located on the intercooler as standard, so I'm led to believe. I've read they can be located anywhere upstream from intercooler outlet onwards.

 

On engines with a torque structure, where the boost control system forms a part of that process, the boosted request happens at a mapped throttle angle and at positive pressure.
Therefore a map sensor is please pre throttle.
On a speed density after market application where the load covers off boost, the MAP sensor placement must be in a stable position of the plenum.

Excellent update by the way.

 

Thanks for that toyotec, I'll blank the map boss and attach to inlet then. It's quite difficult getting answers to big turbo set up's. They're so many conflicting answers all over the net.

 

What did emerald say regarding map sensor position?

Personally I would have thought plenum take off but what do I know