It impressed me too when I found out how you 'unite' the two in happiness Im going to go through some amount of teak making that former, and fibre actually, and maybe 700 cigarettes, but I see a way, which is 98% of the work done Actually, its annoying how some dont take you serious, I mailed a few f1 guys looking to confirm adhesive details and there answers were more or less ''run along now good lad, dont be annoying me, you couldn't possibly make one let alone get it to work, Id be surprised if you could even buy carbon fibre'' Oh ya? Well **** ye.
Finished out the pulley, Parted off and turned around, Removing a bit of excess material that has no business being there, lighten it up a bit, On, Im going to lock this to the shaft by grinding a slight flat spot in it and using a grub screw to secure, when I also know correct position I may apply some bond lock too, designed exactly for this, but Ill see, things are a good fit as is, and once the grub screw is tightened It wont stir. Boring head this time in the chuck and the pulley centre bolted to tool post, you can use the boring head as a mill/flycutter this way also. In progress, this flat makes it easier to start the bit for grub pilot, Notice the fine pores present in the cast, this is normal and Im happy with there size, below this Image is the lifter bore of a 16v vw head, notice the pores there too. Drilling on the vee-block, Tapped, Filing out the 'U's for the bolts, Done, Like so, the bolts just keep the pulley together, the centre bore keeps it true, a small bit holds it really, The rotors have to be locked to shaft obviously so I need to cut keyways if you like into the rotors to be able to locate them on the shaft, I did not want a solid fixing as its the bearings that will take the axial force and not the rotors, so the rotors will float axially slightly on the shaft, but still stay engaged. I feel doing it this way is safer as they will take there own positions then inside the casing, and will have an equal oil film both ends. Ill be driving the rotors with 3mm case hardened ductile pegs installed in the shaft, protruding say, 2mm. Anyway, onto the cutting, Rotor clamped lightly in the toolpost, I was lucky, it clamped up directly, The cutter, this is a diamond and tungsten grit 3mm ball, these are pretty dear(10euro) but worth it when it comes to stuff like this. I could have broached the keyway in the rotors too but that would not be easy. Broaching is basically a file with teeth like a rough hacksaw blade, you fit a centre to rotor, the centre has a slot in it and you drive the broaching blade into this, as you drive the tapered broach in it cuts a bit more as each tooth is higher, in the end your left with a slot 1mm deep, you pull the broach up again and fit a spacer shim behind it and start again until you have a 3mm deep 'saw cut' made for key. Broaching these would not be possible as they are hardened, I would have to remove this via heat treatment, cut the key, and then case harden again, not ideal as the final grinding is done after all these treatments are carried out so it may change dimensionally after the re-treatment. So ya, thats why I did it this way.. Four light passes and its cut, 8mm deep, And both cut, Brian.
Zonda R has mixed carbon/titanium weave which is stunning in the flesh Brian. You are the Irish Fred Dibnah and I'm pleased you're not building a steam engine.
Sort of the same here Brian. I have e-mailed most of the major clutch manufacturers, regarding the problems with Mk2 GTI clutches falling apart, or even falling off. Helix did reply, only to say they would get back to me. And they have not. Luk also replied, and basically said there were no problems. Sachs SRE replied to say they had pass my e-mail on to the factory. Nothing since! PS Surprised you haven't considered "Upsetting" the end of an alloy bar to make your pullies?
i did some Eurofighter bits and some stuff for Gentex in the US about 12 years ago, we used a carbon/kevlar place in Heanor near Nottingham, they were good lads. Although not the best place for guarding your trade secrets, as one of them did go to a fancy dress party as Darth Vader wearing a prototype laser targeting helmet skin... they did some great work though. The boss used to watch the F1 on TV and if one of his teams had a big crash he'd be off down the unit to knock out some more panels on the sunday evening
The boss sounds like my kinda guy Decided to bore out the slide throttles as I needed a 3mm bit to bore pump shaft which I hadn't got and cant get until Tuesday. Its probably no harm as the throttles will then be ready for treatment then also. Im boring them out on the lathe as I haven't skimmer finished, I need to finish this off soon now too for when the time comes to tackle head, but Ill get it done... I had to make a mount in order to bolt throttle assembly to tool post, Tapped, Setting height of carrier, Tacked, Braced square, Assembling slide throttles once more with some water paper in there to clamp brass for boring once assembled, Boring hole to pin all three to make sure the brass does not stir, Bored them all out rough first with a holesaw, its the nearest size I had as the next one up was too big, I could have got a bigger one next week but thats more delays...the boring head will make quick work of the excess... You can now see the tickover drillings, Onto the boring, mounting the rear plate on the jig making sure everything is bang on, And the brass throttle plate, And a poor picture of the top plate bolted on, and the lot pinned again with the small drill bit, Boring, All heavy enough cuts at this stage, Ill finish up with a fine cut on the last pass, the drillings are now easier see, one above and one below plate, by-passing it in order to fine tune idle speed independently, Ive bring them all to the correct size tomorrow, but thats where I left it for this eve, Brian. Edit, I forgot to add Incase anyone makes one of these, you bore the lot with the throttle plate in the wide open throttle position, not the tickover position, that would be bad, flooring it and closing off the throttles is not the way ahead, lol.
A few more snaps of the finish bore and operation, One pair finish bored, Taken apart again to re-mount in order to bore the other pair of holes using the same jig, Looks ok, With the bits held roughly in place and the plate now at half throttle you can get the idea, And Idle(approx) With the top plate removed and wide open, Part throttle, And at Idle, notice I still have a few mm between throttle plate tab and alloy to allow adjustment further closing air space to valves, The rear, needing to be de-burred but you get the idea, Ill be cleaning this up and cutting the o-ring grooves next. And remounting/setting to bore the other pair, Done, Brian.
Metal is so much easier to work with than timber Timber is random no matter how you look at it. Thats possibly why they make engines from metal and not timber actually You can do anything with metal, Its great!
Brian, you are the original "Metal Mickey" This lad is just a pretender! [YOUTUBE]bpnSeE5LDuc[/YOUTUBE]
Pretty boring update.... Got the parts de-burred and the plate blended a little for when its in the tickover position, Im not sure but Id imagine the sharp edge on the plate would make tickover air choppy with the possibility of it whistling a little so I smoothed it over, The plate, Rounding over with the sanding drum, Pre-hand finish, Hand finished, And a quick buff, Got this de-burred too, The brake booster vac slot again, this will be closed off with a 'lid' to form a rectangular 'tube', And a close-up of it in the idle position, but this time with the plate rounded over as above, And to give you a quick update of what I plan to do next, The slide throttle is more or less ready for chemical finishing at this stage. I have to drill the oil pump shaft and insert pins to locate rotors and do one final check and assembly, it will then be ready for chemical finishing them also. Once that's out of the way Ill be making the patterns for the intake runners from throttles to head and casting them, the throttles wont be chemically treated at this stage so I dont mind handling them for the mock up/patten making, that way I can give them a final check after all that's done and then treat them. Ill be mounting the block to the engine stand then and figure out where exactly Ill mount the pump, Ill then make the pattern for the bracket and cast that. After thats done Ill be making the sump pan, Im still not 100% sure if Ill cast it or not, but Im veering towards casting at the minute, but Ill see. Its a bit all over the place, but as I said, I want to try and do all the treating/anodising in the one go as its not something you can easily set-up and tidy away in 5min. Theres plenty of variety that's for sure... Im looking forward to the intake runners as the mould setup is not something Ive done before, the 'tubes' curve slightly in both planes which makes mould set-up 'interesting'. Ill get there though, sometime. Brian.
Fantastically dis-organised work you mean Something I forgot that I carried out last week, Its the angle test for the Titanium valve retainers, I had figured it was 7 degrees that was needed in order to lock the collets but wasn't 100% sure, nor was I sure of how accurate my angle settings on the top slide were, so a basic test confirmed things, The retainer, standard item, removed from the digi head, Topslide set to 7 degrees, Off-cut of bar turned with a 7 degree taper, the last cut being a light one, Now for the ''science'' bit, I got a permanent marker and coloured the tapered portion, With the retainer pushed on and spun by hand it will then show me of the taper is correct, or incorrect depending on how much of the marker it rubs away, Bingo, 7 degrees it is, and it also means the lathe is cutting 7 degrees when set to 7 degrees. (The end bit of marker I rubbed off with my fingers when spinning the retainer) I also performed a test cut to see if the tooling I have would cut the titanium, it cuts it nicely thankfully, some people seem to have problems with this stuff but my tungsten carbide brazed tool cuts it just fine. The swarf is flammable mind you so only light cuts are taken to avoid heating it, small drop of coolant and that should stop that. Ti swarf burns similar to magnesium strip, very bright(I had to see!) I dont know how I forgot to include the above, but there it is anyway, I can now draw up the retainer in my 'spare time' given that I know the angle, and that I can cut the stuff with what I have. Back to the usual tomorrow... Brian.
Got the pump finished but for some reason Photobucket is acting complicated this evening so Ill get them up as soon as its ok again, I did manage to get these uploaded so here they are, I was looking at the intermediate shaft when doing a bit of a tidy up and noticed a fair bit of run out on it, its a handy job to sort out and since the lathe was in ''long'' mode I trued it up, but first, I had to make a centre for the tailstock as I didn't get one with the lathes. These are about 20euro on ebay but when I need something, I need something so I made one. Enter, an old steering rack, the shaft inside was perfect, you may have noticed at this stage I don't throw out or waste anything, ever....its a disease I was born with.... The centre I made is a dead centre, that is, it needs oil when running to keep it happy, I probably should have made a live centre(tip runs on bearings) but this will do for a while, but like all my other stuff Ill probably still have it in twenty years... This locates into the end of the intermediate shaft to keep it steady as its pretty long, Onto the shaft, I didn't really set out to do this yet but I was just in the form for it and the lathe was set-up,(which I have to clean down as its pretty messy now) With the dial gauge mounted and zero'd, And the chuck turned by hand, you can see its out around 36.5thou, or just under 1mm, now this 'hop' doesn't matter too much as its pretty small, and its turning half engine speed, but still, Id like it to be right, it also gives me a chance to take a bit of mass off it, This much out, Turned, few passes and it was trued, Quick run of emery paper to blend shoulder radius at pulley end, And the pump end, wasn't too out of true this end, hence the cast marks showing through, I cut the entire shaft at a 1 degree taper also, this should disperse any vibrations that may ever build up in the shaft as this way, its cross-section is not uniform along its length, Its also cast this way too so I must be on the right track with my thinkings... And finished and out, Ive checked it for trueness at bearings with the dial gauge after in-case it shifted a bit turning some of the material away, its still ok and good to go. Ill stick up the pump finishing pics as soon as photobucket allows, Brian.
Good to hear Rob, sometimes I wonder if Im going too into detail...I cant help not going into detail though The pinning of the pump rotors pics, as you know I had to lock the pump rotors to the shafting, This was trickier than it sounds as they could not be locked solid as I wanted them to be able to float axially a bit for assembly, and so that the bearings were taking the trust, and not the rotors against the divisions. It was a bit hard to photo as things were pretty small and hidden but I took a few pics, The pins, 3mm in diameter, Driven into the holes, They locate to rotors like so, Because one division lies between the two pins I chose to groove the divider so that it would slide down over the first pin, I could have slid it down first, and then driven in the pin but this would mean if the pump had to be split I would have to remove the pin, and I didnt particularly want the pins a loose fit, but instead driven in, the groove in the section is very shallow, and in a non bearing area of the bearing, that is opposite the side where the shaft will lie when the belt is tensioned. The tolerances of the hole are high, but it will tend to take to the side its being pulled too all the same. The groove will also act as an oil way too. And onto stacking them to mark groove position in shaft for locking circlip between both bearing races at pulley end, The grey casing also had to be grooved to fit over pin, With the first race in I measure from end of shaft to face of bearing, this is where my groove needs to be, it was 93.5mm, (poor pic) In the lathe I marked where the groove had to be cut, I made up a thin cutter and cut the groove for the circlip, the picture looks like it has stepped sides but that's just my hand shaking when on macro mode and from the lack of coffee! Ive since assembled the pump again and am now choosing a place to mount the pump and cast its bracket, which Ill upload later. Brian.
I for one really appreciate your efforts in showing us every bit of detail you can Brian. Not to crawl too far up your hairy Oirish ar5e. All you do to metal is beautiful. I love metal. I can smell Steel or Aluminium. The more I see, the more I want.
Well that makes me feel a bit better so Dave, Id hate for anyone to think Im nuts in the head with all the photos of 'small things'... As I said before metal is great, far better than timber, timber is only so accurate, sure you can cut a 12 finger dovetail in mahogany that 'farts' when you put it together(all good dovetails fart when slid together) but metal has just one up on it I feel. Metal may not taste as nice or be as kind in the eyes but thats all part of it!! More ramblings, Did a bit of mocking up to see where Ill place pump, just basic mock-up nothing more, I have to do more this eve and get the alternator bracket on there to have a proper look, I've a few alternator brackets so Ill play around with them, if I'm not happy I can cast one anyway. I'm trying to get the pump In the area where the p/steering pump would go roughly, as there's room there, Zie block, Pump on, P/s assembly, you can see it a pig of a set-up hanging out there, Two possible fixing locations on the edge of block, Ill use these Id say for the new bracket, theyre good points to work off, The original p/s set-up hangs very low so fixing the oil pump within that space should be easy, And on my old 16vG60 you can see how far out I got away with hanging the alternator below the charger bracket, there was still 30mm between alternator and cross-member, so I'm not that stuck for room here, Getting closer now... Somewhere here I think should do, Ill dig out the alternator bracket later and the crank nose pulleys to get an Idea of off-set, and any other possible bracket fixing points I can tag onto, it wont be too bad I feel, plenty of scope there. Then its just a matter of designing a bracket in timber, to use as a pattern, and casting off that. The design must be cast-able of course, that is, the pattern removable from moulds, but of course its do-able. That power steering set-up weights a ton also....see crude scales below... Why anyone would want p/s on a mk2 is beyond me, but each to their own I guess, More later once I 'locate' the alternator brackets, looking at my 16vG60 picture, I think Ill sit it where the alternator is in that picture. Brian.
