Brian i really hope this all works for you. Ill be following this closely. thanks for the detailed write up
I hope it does too, its amazing how hard it is to find info on some things, Ive no problem designing or making stuff, but its the small things that you have to be sure of, like for example what alloys are best for whatever, what treatment process etc. Plus the fact that the net is full of poor or incorrect facts on certain things so the only way to be sure is through testing, etc. Everything I post I want to try and have it as accurate and correct as possible so It can be followed if someone else wants to try it. Another example is an oil seal! Basic as they may seem theres about 300 different types that all look more or less the same, picking the correct one is tricky and takes hours of reading about them before you can choose one that suits you best. But Ill get there, sometime.....its going to be one very long project thread and will probably send most to sleep But what the hell, Im enjoying it, its what Ive always wanted to do and I also feel sharing info is very important Right, I feel this might be getting a bit boring at this stage but the pump is nearly done so Ill be back into new/more interesting stuff after and pretty soon. I have to have all angles covered though as theres no point in making something that wont work, or that Ill have to strip/finish/redo at a later stage. Im just looking at the pump section in my photobucket acc and its showing 193 Images....wow, it feels like about 20... So hang in there folks. I set to work marking the bolt positions for fixing pump to bracket, 6 m6 bolts in total, they are small but I feel they're plenty, the holes are deep and the bolts good quality. I plan on loctiting nearly all bolts anyway so I dont see any problems. The brass plates turned 90 degrees to mark the holes , Marking with the callipers, All marked up, I should mention too that Im noticing that the camera is pretty poor this eve, I dont know why, maybe its having enough of all this. Ill check it out later, the close-ups are the worst ive taken so far... Drilled to 5mm, Tapped, Now, onto securing the bearings. The plan is to cut a groove in the shaft, into this groove will go a circlip, the circlip will sit between the bearings to prevent the shaft from coming out. The top bearing will then be held in and given a touch of preload with 3 screws around its perimeter. These will be given a touch of loctite and the bearings will also get a touch too. I have just the loctite for securing/assembling bearings to alloy, even when they are a press fit I feel its no harm. So... Below you can see the bearings pressed tight onto each other, there's the thickness of a circlip above the top bearing to the shoulder. I must also add for those of you having nervous breakdowns at all the swarf on everything, Ill be washing everything very clean when Im done messing with them. Dremel came out to mill 3 flat spots to start the bit. This is very tight in here but it went ok, this is one of the photos Im talking about, the bores look pig rough but they're actually smooth...? It seems the milled surface throws of the macro setting or something, I dont know. Holes were drilled on these spots, And tapped, And the oil hole drilled, this feeds from the top side chamber in the first pump case, this is the pressure side but given that the pressure is going to be just the head height up to tank It should be ok when it comes to the oil seal, and it blowing out. They are high pressure oil seals but still, worth a mention. I may drill another hole out of the bearing section yet to the low pressure side in order to keep the oil refreshing in there, but of course this would hurt pumping volume to tank as it would be a direct by-pass, I have to have another look at it yet and decide then. And a view from the rear, you can see(just about) oil hole entering down at rotor face, Brian.
Brian, i'm not sure what you do for a job at the mo, but we have a senior technician's job going at work soon, pretty sure it's about 32K with loads of holidays and dead easy. It would be supporting loads of one off prototyping jobs, and general workshop training stuff
Fine for me? Anyone else not able to view them? If not photobucket are in for it, its been a bit iffy the last while, Im now paying them and running photobucket pro so they'd want to cop on.
Ive thought of a way to make another hole into the bearing, it will be a groove of small cross section leading to the low pressure side. I think a hole would be too much in that it would possibly suck air if the pipe to tank emptied over time, this would have a bad effect on things and I doubt the pump would be able to prime itself due to this by-pass, more on that later, Just a Small update this eve as I was busy making room for two lathes Im getting, Gave the top of section one a quick linnish on the belt sander, I want this semi flat as Ill be mounting the belt guard onto this section, Drilled, and tapping, I also flattened the sections under the threaded fittings, Brian.
Been busy the last while rebuilding these two little machines I picked up. There out of a college and have never seen much work so I had to buy them, they also cost just 180euro for the pair so I could not leave them after me. Im nearly done rebuilding them, there tidier than the M300 too for smaller stuff. They werent a bit worn but I stripped them to clean them and check everything, I also gave them a very quick coat of paint to make them a bit more photo friendly. You'll be seeing a lot of these in the next while as I intend making them sing, lol. Back at the usual lark in a day or two.
Ha! Ill finish it alright, but when, maybe september Ill have the 8v done and in including everything needed to make it work(thats a lot of everythings) Then Im going to start on a 16v version same style, but instead Ill be casting the head meself My plans are running about 7 months behind as I intended casting the head ages ago, but what the hell, its up and running now at last and the head/mould plans are long since finished
No wonder colleges in Eire aren't don't offer evening classes in metal work, you've bought all the machine tools! You are a lucky sod to find them! Wish I had one. I will have to look in "Buy and Sell" now! I guess that the lathes are three phase though? I make my circular bits, up to about 100 mm dia, by fitting a spindle in front of the wheel on my bench grinder. I then turn the part, on the spindle,by hand, against the wheel , and adjust with light taps of a hammer. Not very accurate, but quicker than filing! Seriously. I have tried to find somewhere I can turn, mill, grind and drill my own parts, I used to do this at school evening classes in the UK, but nothing appears to be available around here.
Everyman for his own anymore! You'll pick up a lathe easy enough, look up pat bolger in waterford, sound skin, normally has bits and pieces Onto the pulley.... Standard crank pulley off a 2.0l, this will end up being my pump pulley as it has the correct amount of teeth I need so Im going to use it. I will have to make the pulley for the crank but thats minor. Ill let the pictures do the talking as the pictures were taken at the important cutting steps, pay no heed to the homemade cutting tools for the time being, Ive a few insert tools on order... The boring head, I talked about this before, its adjustable via the screw on the side, everyone should have one! Turned and checked with the dial gauge, onto cleaning up the outside, And finished up, pulley is a lot lighter now and the width I need, Next up, the centre of pulley, this will be alloy and mount onto pump spindle, I could use some billet here but Im all out, so, its the perfect time to do a casting test by casting a blank from some scrap and seeing how it turns, check for internal gas pockets inside the blank, etc. I have noticed a fair few bubbles inside the heads I cut up for testing/analysis so I want to see If I can get my parts as good as them(if thats how you'd say it) Bubbles inside the castings are a result of turbulence as the alloy is poured into mould and also the temperature of the metal both as its being heated, and the temperature its poured at. So onto the blank, the pattern for this is an old aerosol can I taped the ends up to rid the concave ends and negative draft angles. For anyone just joining this thread now its a good insight into casting again as I photgraphed the stages a bit better since I was in no panic as such as the part was basic, and didn't really matter how long the mould was left closed for(sand can collapse inside mould if left for too long before pour) Cope(top) filled and lifted off, gate and riser cut and fill sprue also, Closed, The scrap metal, Approx 3min after ignition, You can see the amount of dross on top after alloy has melted, this has to be raked off and is useless and not good inside your part, And raked off, Flux is then stirred in, this de-gasses the alloy even more and gets rid of more impurities(dross) You can see the extra that has now come to the top again, And raked, you dont want to touch the alloy anymore than you need to, the metal skins over by its self, stirring it breaks this skin allowing more air to contaminate the molten metal, And out, not good to boil the metal either, just enough dwell time and no more, And poured, pic taken approx 10 seconds after pour, Did someone say ''The T1000''!.. Blank removed, its dog rough as the tape made lines but it doesnt matter a bit for this as its being turned anyway, its nice converting useless scrap into usable blanks(free) I have to say! Gates cut, and blank cut in half and mounted in the 3 jaw, Slow speed until its a bit truer, it wasnt that far off surprisingly, Trued and end parted off, all rough cuts as yet, Getting there, no voids or excessive pores to be seen, Boring the bore hole, I have to get a chuck for the tailstock yet for holes under 12mm, but Im doing fine as yet! Boring hole to shaft clearance fit, Done, Ive have to finish up this tomorrow, wont take long, and then I can set about locking rotos to shaft, that'll be the pump done then bar chemical treatment which Ill prob do last when Ive all the other bits done to save setting up all that lark multiple times. Oh, and heres a picture of the gearbox, 02A, Ill be converting this to fully sequential with some carbon fibre and titanium thrown in now that Ive figured how to bond titanium bearing housings to composite. Thats a while of, but its something for you to think about sure, Ive the thinking bit done on it! Brian.
Don't be overawed Stu. I recon. that an 02A sequential conversion should be a piece of pi55. I am waitng for his 020 sequential conversion!
Amazing work! I daren't read any more though, every time I open a new page my computer practically melts! It's like the polar opposite to my build
I mean everything else, the boring head is a bought item The tool post cutters are various regrinds from oil pump shafts to old surface planer blades, planger blades are great and are 400mm long, plenty of 'stock' in each one I dont know if theres any way around the page taking an age to load problem, it can be annoying at times, its not too bad on my pc but the laptop doesnt like it too much..anyways, Im of out to my cave again for another while, talk later
