New slicks - where to buy and which brand?

If the temps are very low a slick will not work its like driving on ice no grip what so ever and zero feel Because there is no grip you cant get any heat into the tyre for it to 'work' and generate grip, its vicious circle.

There is a big difference from a testing session where you can work heat into the tyres over a period of time compared to going flat out on cold rears. Hence why you need to practice this. When its cold technique is critical, you have to utilise what grip is available to generate heat. Some people are better at this than others and its long learning process. Only track time in these conditions will enable you to gains the skills for this. All in the 'Race Craft' and what makes racing an 'Art'

Also its about how big your balls are first lap, who dares wins so to speak, I know its a new car but dont be afraid about trading paint with other competitors. If people find out your being careful they will take advantage and 'lean' on you to gain places and make you move out of the way. Its one reason why i keep a few dents on my car people notice this and make an mental note when you come charging up the inside. In all the years i never touched anyone but it’s all psychological.

The first lap is my favourite i love pushing hard on cold slicks, then followed by racing in the wet. Sounds crazy but its more fun lol and of course when slicks are fully in and your hunting someone down, happy days

Id have a set of softs for low temps 1-8 degrees and for 8+ medium fronts and medium soft rears. Check the Met office weather forecast a few days before and if you know its going to be that cold swap the slicks over. Maybe some moulded Dunlop slicks which could be used for dual purposes cold and damp conditions? I have used some hankook wets in soft compound for cold and damp conditions, due to tight budgets. They were worn right down with about 1mm of tread and were easy to get heat into but were going off after lap 7 but id gained enough distance in the early laps and had to manage them to the end once they were jelly like.

A tip for others who are reading in and interested in running slicks this year 'Gurds' In decent weather 15+ degrees driving on slicks is like being on rails the grip levels are immense also you can break much later and harder without locking up, also you use your diff much more for turn in. Also with road tyres when hte go they really let go even 888's etc but on slicks they are so much more progressive dunlops especially. They start moving but hold on for a long time before giving you the 2 fingers. You can actually 4 wheel drift controllably from the turn in point through the apex to your exit point. Fastest line

 

Ali did i read that right you have 2 warm up laps? In that case you will be fine. Also don’t start changing brake bias around. You will have so much going on in your head, adrenaline pumping around and your heart pumping a million times a second it the last thing you need. Also don’t spin your wheels to put heat into them you will break driveshaft’s.

 

That's true, the main thing that Slicks give you is that controlled slip in normal conditions. They just give you so much 'feel', you can push them more and more. There isn't really an edge to push them over just and increasingly steep slope. In most controlled situations they give you plenty of warning that you are getting close and to take care and you can rein it all back in.

X22's are awesome in the wet, even uncut, same thing controlled slip with plenty of feel. I love them and use them in all conditions. They do have some moulded slots in them to conform to MSA regs. I would only consider running treaded tyres in deep standing water.

 

The other people who i can think who has experience racing on slicks is coupechamp but he is limited to using hankooks in one compound for the VW Cup and Nick Bash Bosch in the Dunlop Motoring saloons

 

Yes, 2 laps - one is warmup and one formation, but still 2 nonetheless.

Driveshafts are a worry atm. The shafts are new with 100mm CV's but tbh, I am not really expecting the splines to last much past the first one or two sessions. Looking to buy uprated shafts but budget is going very fast just now as I am sure you can imagine!

 

Jon, Mike, Tony & Sam - top bits of info and pretty much given me all things to think about to go ahead and make decision on compound, brand, size etc. Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts & experience.

Will report back, very soon I hope, with the purchase and will hopefully put back in some feedback if I make 1st race (though, that is going to be seriously big feat, maybe 2nd race then...!)

Cheers,
Ali

 

Indeed - just voted on 'my' own thread - 5 stars

 

Good input guys, pretty much agree all round. I would say the prices quoted are a bit light. Bought a pair of 190/580/15 Hankooks at the last rally 276. Dunlop CR311's are defo more than 100. If you can get them for that, could you share your source? Group buy?
I run more than one tarmac rally car, and have recently decided to standardise on 190/580/15's in an effort to rationalise. (Keeping 15,16 and 17's wheel/tyres is a 'mare)
Havent ever competed after warming up tyres, sprints/tarmac rallies/rallycross are all full bore from cold. The back end stepping out of line a foot is no biggie, provided you keep it planted and wind the lock on. Best mod ever for a mk1 is a quick rack, just for that eventuality.
Love it when its slippy also, great levellor...
Avon make some great soft 8.2/20/13 slicks.
http://www.ianhardy.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=93590

 

Driveshafts? Worry ye not.....The amount of grief I have given them over the years, simply not an issue (maybe I havent got enough 'torques')
Now trying racing a full house Mini. On grass. And after a couple of seasons you will have rolled at least once, due to broken inner shafts. If you havent your not 'really' trying..

 

I snapped the splins off one after a warm up lap before a rolling start I was spinning up the wheels. Weaving is much more productive and less stress on moving parts. I only have a VR6 as well none of the turbo woosh stuff

I say that about crashing lol

 

Hi Jon,

Driveshafts is definately a concern with the setup. Expecting 450/500 range for power and torque around 400/450, so with soft slicks I cannot see OEM shafts lasting.

I have been a bit light on information on the car because I knew it was a bit irrelevant as the car has been built with slicks in mind. It has plate diff, quick rack and all the brakes it would need even on super soft slicks for 10 laps. Spring rates are a bit trial and error but again, the suspension was built around the spec so it should be ok.

I just need to get some base settings, work from there and try and maximise the performance.

Did a bit of searching before and most threads with slicks in mind seemed to turn into "well you need to uprate this, and you need to uprate that, etc etc" - so think the thread has achieved its aim and has developed into a good source of info after you have all come forward with your input

Keep it coming!

(group buy idea seems good, although not really up for the responsibility or organising but I will ask when I speak to them again tomorrow just for info...)

 

Not wanting to take the thread OT but this is a pretty good vid of the race and might give folks some idea of the application. For this particular race though, think wets would be required!

This is the class I will be in. The 4wd cars are in A1, the 2wd's are A2. Both racing tyres and unlimited modifications.


[YOUTUBE]dmsQZAkVhZg[/YOUTUBE]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmsQZAkVhZg

 

Nice Shafts

 

Used them before Mike or know who has?

Seems like a very good price compared to other uprated shafts.

Wheres the catch?!

 

There isnt a catch, Bildon are well respected, i was going for a set for the Mk3 but havent got round to it. Havent seen any reports but they have been selling them for years, so if they are still selling them now

As they say unbreakable. Full lifetime warranty. It will cost a bit to import and the duty/tax etc

 

I remember the mini 'unbreakable' shafts. True, it it was the next bit in the chain that broke..Seriously, it looks like you are well into the 'next' powerband range, so I cannot comment.
I remember a boy who turned up at the Croft Brit champ sprint and pussyfooted off the line. My god he was fast down that back straight.. He knew his drivetrain well, and didnt want to kill it at the flag..
Lastly, it was always expected to warm the fronts at the rallycross pre grid, before joining the final grid. 8K, full throttle, cold everything. Always had tyre smoke remnants inside the car prior to the actual start.

 

That is some serious power you are going to be running!! Amazing! That is going to be such a car.

I know Tony (in the Class A mk2 in the VAG trophy) was struggling to get his front slicks to last much more than a race! Lots of power - 300+ I think?
The seats went to really wide front wheels/tyres for a bit (where they 9 inches??) to get more life from the tyres.
That could be the biggest problem maybe.... I don't know. I have never driven anything near that powerful!

My dad had some competition driveshafts made for the Vento cup car we ran. It had a Beetle challenge engine in it, and seemed to need them. I'll ask him who he used.

 

Off thread thought. At those powers I would be spending my time thinking about aero, rather than slicks. It should be a given that to make use of 450 you should be on 18's and 355 discs/watercooled calipers, and top banana rubber/shocks.
Or am I wrong?
(I thought 200 was a lot...)

 

No, no aero just now.

No doubt aero will provide more grip but not so sure I want to get into that just now. Seems to be a bit of a pandoras box and unless you really know what you are doing with it, think you could end up making things more unstable.

Want to concentrate on mechanical grip first and foremost. Aero can come later. The Reeves golfs get on fine with no or close to no real aero.

Anyway, the whole point of aero is downforce, which places even more of a demand on the tyres, so they need to be able to handle it first.

It os on pretty good shocks, or at least I should hope so for the 3k they cost me at Intrax. The brakes wont need watercooling as it is not an endurance car, just an 800kg hatch doing 10 lap races. No way I am putting 18's on a mk1. Just not going to happen, no matter how much more performance it might give me! Haha

Here is a pic of the brakes




Sam - neither have I! Most I have driven was a 996 Turbo and it didnt feel that fast. Will be fun finding out!

 

Right to really turn things upside down what about using 16" rims!!!! I used to run 16's on my sprint Mk1many years ago and handled well.

With 235mm on the front with 210mm on the rear in order to maximise the amount of power you have. I thought you were only running 350-400 lol You will murder the 200's Why did you originally go for 15's

With the dog box, uprated shafts make sense, but you still might strip gears.