OEM management wiring: 1.8T => Mk2 harness install FAQ

Discussion in '1.8 & 1.8T' started by 20v_jimmy, Dec 29, 2009.

Page 27 of 38
  1. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,340
    Location:
    Bracknell
    rubjonny, Mar 10, 2016
    #521
  2. RAOSKIDOO

    raoskidoo New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2016
    Likes Received:
    0
    The thing is I bought a cabby 1988 with a AWP swap. Harness was total garbage but the car was running like a new. Didnt have a T14a plug , it only had the blue connector for the electric pedal. I don't plan on using a clutch switch and I'm using the mk1 starter wiring aswell. I will wire a diag port , but I only want the strict minimum to get the car running. No rpm gauge or temp and so on. I will deal with that later. The brown connector is already wired into the mk1 harness ( fuse box ). I'm thinking into just pluging my new harness into was is already done ( which was running )
     
    raoskidoo, Mar 10, 2016
    #522
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,340
    Location:
    Bracknell
    the t14a plug is on the other half of the ecu loom, with the small ecu plug. this one has the main earth for the coilpacks, on some its got the live for the coils as well and others its on a separate 2 pin plug. there are a couple fuel pump lives in it too for the fuel injectors, n75 valve etc

    but yeah for the coloured plugs the only ones you need to worry about to get the car to run is the brown and blue :)
     
    rubjonny, Mar 10, 2016
    #523
  4. RAOSKIDOO

    raoskidoo New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2016
    Likes Received:
    0
    Which means :
    7 brn earth to battery Coilpack earth
    8 blk/pur ECU Relay G1/10 Coilpack power feed (4 cylinder engines) or unused on some models

    Since its the mk1 fueling system , do I need :
    5 red/pur Large spade N Z/1 Fuel pump live for injectors
    6 yel/blk E/14 via male spade (petrol)
    ECU relay (diesel) G1/8 (petrol)
    G1/10 (diesel) Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine. ECU relay power on diesel models (see diesel notes below)

    ( Was Unused on my older setup tho ) But I remember the 2 wires for Coil earth and Coil live but not these 2 .

    By the way , thanks for the info man ! you rock
     
    raoskidoo, Mar 10, 2016
    #524
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,340
    Location:
    Bracknell
    5 is the power feed for the fuel injectors so you'll need that, factory its a fuel pump relay live but a decent ignition feed is ok. The big spade N can be used if you are using the factory fuel relay socket, it is unfused but this is how all MK1/2/3 EFI systems are. If you run the purple/white wire from the brown plug to D/13 you can then use a 67/80/167 fuel relay which will then be controlled by the ECU just like a factory 20v

    6 is power for other engine electrics such as N75 valve so you'll need that too. as above fuel relay live factory, but decent ignition is ok. For the factory fuel relay E/14 would do you, or run another feed to spade N but I would put an inline fuse on this one.

    7 is the main earth for your coilpacks, put that to the battery

    8 is unused on the AWP ecu loom, instead coilpack power is taken from the 2 pin plug a bit further along the loom
     
    rubjonny, Mar 11, 2016
    #525
  6. RAOSKIDOO

    raoskidoo New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2016
    Likes Received:
    0
    Okay thanks , sorry for my complete ignorance and stupidity , but this is what I understood.

    5 - purple/white wire from the brown plug to D/13 (mk1) and replace the stock "62" fuel pump relay with a 67/80/167 ( in the same socket ? ) What do I do with the number 5 wire from T14a ? Connect it to ignition feed ( 12v constant on ignition and cranking right ? )
    6- Samething 12v constant on ignition and cranking
    What is a " spade N" ?

    I am a complete noob and still learning everyday !
     
    raoskidoo, Mar 11, 2016
    #526
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,340
    Location:
    Bracknell
    T14a pin 5 needs to be on the fuel pump relay output, so the large spade N or smaller spade on E/14. pin T14a/6 same deal.

    the purple/white ecu trigger wire for the 67/80/167 fuel relay to D/13 is on the brown plug T6 pin 2 on later wiring looms, if it was an early one then it would be on or T10 orange plug pin 3.

    Spade N is on the rear of the fusebox, for later CE1 digifant injection engines this is where the injector power is run from. Its unfused so you may want to add your own inline fuse to it if you use that. The factory CE1 digifant loom powers the lambda heater from a male spade from E/14, this one is fused and you could use that for the 20v lambda/maf power if you wanted.

    this thread should help with the CE1 fusebox pins:
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775
     
    rubjonny, Mar 14, 2016
    #527
  8. RAOSKIDOO

    raoskidoo New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2016
    Likes Received:
    0
    T14a/5 spliced on the large spade N
    T14a/6 spliced on the large spade N

    T6brown/2 trigger wire for fuel pump relay

    Maf isnt taking is 12v from the harness ?

    I will be using a external fuel pump ( walbro ) I was planing to power it with a fuel pump relay with that wiring :

    [​IMG]

    What would be the trigger ? T6brown ( purp/white )? Thanks and sorry If I look stupid
     
    raoskidoo, Mar 14, 2016
    #528
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,340
    Location:
    Bracknell
    the MAF and lambda are both powered by the brown plug T6 pin 5, this also need to be fed by E/14 or spade N or a decent ignition live :)

    if you wire your fuel pump using an external relay as shown pin 86 needs to go to E/14 or spade N, then it will be triggered by the CE1 fusebox relay. As I say put a 67/80/167 relay into slot 2 then it will be triggered by the purple/white wire to pin D/13, and power up pin E/14 and spade N.

    alternatively you could put pin 86 to an ignition live feed, and tap pin 85 to the purple/white wire as well so the ecu triggers both the external fuel relay and the 67/80/167 fuel relay on the fusebox. either way it will work fine :)
     
    rubjonny, Mar 14, 2016
    #529
  10. RAOSKIDOO

    raoskidoo New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2016
    Likes Received:
    0
    Exactly what I was planning to do !

    Thanks for the help , your making everything looks so easy ;) !

    To get the tach working is it easier with a MSD box or similar or by using diodes ?
     
    raoskidoo, Mar 14, 2016
    #530
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,340
    Location:
    Bracknell
    msd or similar box makes life easy as you just have to hook it up to the rev counter feed inside the car, rather than messing with diodes in the engien bay. plus the diode trick only works on the older DBW ecu as those use -ve trigger coils, the DBW ecu trigger signals are different!
     
    rubjonny, Mar 14, 2016
    #531
  12. RAOSKIDOO

    raoskidoo New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2016
    Likes Received:
    0
    My last question is :

    What is the exact wiring for the obd port ? ( K-line , 12v, GND ) do you have any links , I have searched on google but there is a lot of confusion about it.
    What wire is the tach output so I can route it to my msd 8920

    That's pretty much it. Thank you so much for your help !
     
    raoskidoo, Apr 18, 2016
    #532
  13. RAOSKIDOO

    raoskidoo New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2016
    Likes Received:
    0
    EDIT : I found answers to all my questions but I still need the correct layout for the OBD port. This is what I'm planning on wiring :

    OBD diag port :
    T10 Orange /1 grey/white Diagnostics K line
    T10 White /2 orange/black CAN BUS High
    T10 White /3 orange/brown CAN BUS low
    1 - black/blue - ignition live
    4 - brown - earth
    5 - brown - earth
    6 - orange/black - CAN BUS high
    7 - grey/white - Diagnostics K line
    14 - orange/brown - CAN BUS low
    16 - red/white - permanent live
     
    raoskidoo, Apr 18, 2016
    #533
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,340
    Location:
    Bracknell
    yes that is correct obd port pinout, you probably wont need the can-bus wiring but you may as well while you're there. The ign live isnt strictly necessary either but someone mentioned it can help with volt spikes or something so may as well add it

    The rev counter is from T10/9, to D/26 on CE1 or G1/12 on CE2
     
    rubjonny, Apr 19, 2016
    #534
  15. RAOSKIDOO

    raoskidoo New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2016
    Likes Received:
    0
    Oops sorry , forgot to mention that I had found the correct infos according to your links ! :) I'm ready to wire everything up !!! Thanks man
     
    raoskidoo, Apr 19, 2016
    #535
  16. KENTGTIKR

    KentGTiKR Forum Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2008
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Lithuania
    Could anyone please help me with MSD8920 box ? I connected to my clocks but rev counter does not work.
    AGU 1.8T spliced to mk2 CE2

    My setup is:
    MSD8920 Red wire -> Y/2 in CE2
    MSD8920 Black wire -> Earthed to chassis near fusebox
    MSD8920 Violet wire -> mk2 clocks pin10 (green)
    MSD8920 White wire -> ECU M3.8.3 pin6 (green/brown)
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2016
    KentGTiKR, May 8, 2016
    #536
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,340
    Location:
    Bracknell
    bit late now but I recommend that the clock wiring is left alone, and the tach adaptor is instead spliced to G1/12 rev counter input on the engine loom.

    Your wiring is fine, but did you cut the clock green wire and splice to the clock side or strip insulation and tap into it? if tapped, was there anything fed into g1/12?
     
    rubjonny, May 9, 2016
    #537
  18. KENTGTIKR

    KentGTiKR Forum Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2008
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Lithuania
    Yeah, too late, I cut clock green wire and connected white wire of 8920 to clocks pin 10.
    G1/12 in my case is binned. No wire in plug for that pin. But that is not a problem, I can fit wire back in G1/12.

    I can solder back green wire of clocks too. But then.. Do I need to splice violet of 8920 to G1/12 ?
     
    KentGTiKR, May 9, 2016
    #538
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2003
    Likes Received:
    3,340
    Location:
    Bracknell
    makes no odds either way it should work fine, was just checking if g1/12 had anything in there that could interfere with the rev pulse. how you have it wired currently is fine, do you hear any clicking from the msd unit when car is running?
     
    rubjonny, May 12, 2016
    #539
  20. KENTGTIKR

    KentGTiKR Forum Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2008
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Lithuania
    There's no sound coming from unit. Neither when the engine is running, neither on ignition. I do also suspect it should emit some warm a bit, but it's cold.
    I did some checks regarding voltage:
    I have 13V+ between black and red wire of unit. Which sound ok to me.
    I have ~12.8V between violet and white wire.
    I have 13V+ between earth point and dash pin10 (green wire)

    I fit another clocks, suspecting current cluster might be damaged or something, but even with another cluster I got no RPM.
    MSD unit is new, which I bought from http://www.ignitionproducts.eu/en/
     
    KentGTiKR, May 12, 2016
    #540
Page 27 of 38

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Accept Learn More...
    Dismiss Notice