OEM management wiring: 1.8T => Mk2 harness install FAQ

Discussion in '1.8 & 1.8T' started by 20v_jimmy, Dec 29, 2009.

  1. Willowraf Forum Member

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    Dam dam dam... Can i get it started no!!! Right guys sorry about this...Can somone help me out.. I'm Trying to fit this into a Mk1 cabrio loom but not have much luck. Can some create a wiring instruction for the powers + and Earths as the rest seem fine.. i think i'm getting my switched powers wrong but now its starting to do my head in... Plz.. On the VAG-com only getting ABS & Airbag fault codes?#/
     
  2. Willowraf Forum Member

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    This is my wiring setup!!

    T6-brown connector
    pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused ------------------------ switched live
    pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay ------------- earth on relay
    pin 3 -starter N
    pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 ---------- Direct Feed from Batt
    pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay ------- Direct Feed From + on relay
    pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10amp from fuel pump relay ------ Direct Feed From + on relay

    T14a - 14 pin connector near battery
    pin 1 - black to green/black from oil pressure sender to mk4 clocks
    pin 2 -black/green to black/white to speedo sender to mk4 clocks
    pin 3 - white/blue speed sender to dash to mk4 clocks
    pin 4 -purple coolant temp sensor to mk 4 clocks
    pin 5 - red/purple 10 amp fused switched live to injectors------ Ignition live
    pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay ----- Direct Feed From + on relay
    pin 7 - brown earth
    pin 8 - black/purple 15 amp fused switched live -------------------Ignition Live
    pin 9 - brown/white
    pin 10 -
    pin 11 -black/blue to grey/black oil level
    pin 12 - brown/blue to purple/white oil level
    pin 13 -
    pin 14 -

    T10W -White connector
    pin 1 -
    pin 2 - orange/black to ecu T121/60 canbus high (227) N
    pin 3 - orange/brown to ecu T121/58 canbus low (225) N
    pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch Y (Clutch pedal switch in car) not used
    pin 5 - blue/purple to brown/red to ecu T121/28 To DFM Alternater
    pin 6 -
    pin 7 - white/green to ecu T121/30 Not used
    pin 8 - white/red to ecu T121/48 Not used
    pin 9 - green/purple to ecu T121/67 Not used
    pin 10 - purple/yellow to ecu T121/47 Not used

    T10 Orange
    pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) To Mk4 clocks
    pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 Not used
    pin 3 - blue/green T121/22 to brake servo control and vacuum pump Not used
    pin 4 - Not used
    pin 5 - Not used
    pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed mk4 clocks
    pin 7 - green or green/grey to ecu T121/41 connection to air con Not used
    pin 8 - blue/red to ecu T121/40 connection to air con Not used
    pin 9 - green/brown ecu T121/37 to climatronic control Not used
    pin 10 - Not used

    T10h Blue
    pin 1 - brown/white to brown/blue ecu T121/34 to throttle sender T6b/6 Y
    pin 2 - green/white to green white ecu T121/72 to throttle sender T6b/1 Y
    pin 3 - yellow/green to yellow/green ecu T121/73 to throttle sender T6b/2 Y (Throttle pedal in car)
    pin 4 - grey/red to grey/red ecu T121/36 to throttle sender T6b/3 Y
    pin 5 - white/blue to white/blue ecu T121/35 to throttle sender T6b/4 Y
    pin 6 - grey/blue to grey/blue ecu T121/33 to throttle sender T6b/5 Y
    pin 7 - Not used
    pin 8 - Not used
    pin 9 - Not used
    pin 10 -blue/purple auto gearbox ------------Not used

    ok switched live? does this remain live when you turn key to start? or remain live with ignition on?
    [:^(]
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    switched live would be coil live, i.e. live with ignition and cranking, black wire from ign switch and to old coil plug
     
  4. Willowraf Forum Member

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    Nice cheers matey..Also good news about your car!!

    So this should work?

    [​IMG]
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    CE1 -> MK4 fusebox connections:

    T6 - brown 6 pin connector, in connector protective housing, on left in plenum chamber
    1 - blk - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 3 (coil live feed (15) in dash panel) - D/15 or D/23 (D/15 wire if there is usually a purple/white resistance wire, so no use to you)
    2 - pur/wht - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 65 (fusebox pin S3/6, fuel pump relay pin 85, (earth trigger)) - D/13
    3 - red/blk - Starter motor pin 50 (ignition switch pin 50) - D/24
    4 - red/grn - Fuse 37 (Positive connection (30) in engine compartment) - spade P
    5 - blu/yel - Fuse 43 (Fuel pump relay output (87a), in engine wiring) - spade from E/14
    6 - yel/blk - Unused, comes from Fuse 34 (Fuel pump relay output (87), in dash panel wiring) - spade from E/14

    T10 - orange 10 pin connector, in connector protective housing, on left in plenum chamber
    1 - gry/wht - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 43 (Dash plug pin 5, diagnostics)
    2 - grn/red - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 81 (mpg signal) - only for MK3+ dash
    3 - blk/grn - Reverse light switch pin 1 (coil live feed 1 (15), in interior wiring, fuse 7) - D/16 or C/20 for mk1s
    6 - blu/wht - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 54 (Connection (speed signal), in dash panel wiring)
    7 - grn/gry - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 41 (unused)
    8 - blu/red - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 40 (unused)
    9 - grn/blu - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 37 (rev counter signal) - only for MK3+ dash
    10- blk/blu - Reverse light switch pin 2 (manual models only, output to reverse lights) - D/19 or C/21 for mk1s

    T10w - white 10 pin connector, in connector protective housing, on left in plenum chamber
    4 - wht/red - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 39 (clutch pedal switch, manual models only)
    5 - blu/pur - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 28 (alternator pin DFM)
    7 - wht/grn - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 30 (unused)
    8 - wht/red - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 48 (unused)
    9 - grn/pur - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 67 (unused)
    10- pur/yel - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 47 (unused)

    T10h - blue 10 pin connector, in connector protective housing, on left in plenum chamber
    1 - brn/wht - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 34 (accellerator position sender pin 6)
    2 - grn/wht - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 72 (accellerator position sender pin 1)
    3 - brn/wht - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 73 (accellerator position sender pin 2)
    4 - gry/red - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 36 (accellerator position sender pin 3)
    5 - wht/blu - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 35 (accellerator position sender pin 4)
    6 - gry/blu - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 33 (accellerator position sender pin 5)

    T14a - 14-pin connector, near battery
    1 - blk - Oil pressure switch (Dash plug pin 10, oil pressure warning) - not compatible with mk1/2/3 dash, use the old oil pressure wires and sensors
    2 - blk/wht - Speedo sensor pin 1 (Coil live feed 1 (15), in interior wiring, fuse 7)
    3 - wht/blu - Speedo sensor pin 2 (Dash plug pin 28, speedo)
    4 - pur - Dash coolant temp sensor pin 1 (Dash plug pin 8, coolant temp) - D/29 (may need resistor)
    5 - red/pur - Fuel injectors 1-4 pin 1 (Fuel pump relay output (87), in dash panel wiring harness) - spade from E/14
    6 - yel/blk - Inlet cam control valve pin 1, Turbo air recirc valve pin 1 and Charge pressure control solenoid pin 1 (Fuel pump relay output (87), in dash panel wiring, fuse 34) - spade from E/14
    7 - brn - Earth in centre of plenum chamber (Earth connection 1, in engine compartment wiring) - run to earth claw above fusebox
    8 - blk/pur - Unused, comes from Fuse 29 (Coil live feed (15), in dash panel wiring)
    9 - brn/wht - Dash coolant temp sensor pin 2 (Earth connection (sender earth) 1, in dash panel wiring) - earth this wire to head, and run a wire from here to brown/white wire behind fusebox with red spade housing
    11- yel/blk - Oil level/temp sensor pin 1 (Coil live feed (15a), in dash panel wiring, fuse 5) -not compatible with mk1/2/3 dash, use the old oil temp wire and sensor
    12- pur/wht - Oil level/temp sensor pin 3 (Dash plug pin 18, oil level/temp warning) -not compatible with mk1/2/3 dash, use the old oil temp wire and sensor
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
  6. Willowraf Forum Member

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    Thanks for all the help from all the guys on here... I've learnt after 3 days that i had my wiring correct from the start after going round in circles and banding my head.. The main thing i was missing was that the ECU outer Case needed to be earthed...tut tut what a plonker!! hehe ..Well here's another one that runs down to this thread...Thanks again..:thumbup:

    Rubjonny your a star i owe you a beer..:thumbup:
     
  7. Bushy B Forum Member

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    Great write up. Just read through the whole thread. Got a headache now[:s]

    Just in the process of doing a transplant. 1.8T (BAM) from one MK2 conversion (very rough) into our own car (Mk2 Driver Tidy) ). Wiring on the existing 1.8T MK2 is a bit of a mess to say the least (as bought but runs OK) so flying a bit blind.
    Anybody got a link to an Emerald ECU / 1.8T wiring project. so at least we can get the engine out, as at the moment got wires going everywhere, plugs hanging off, wires disappearing down the back of the engine etc. Wires are threaded through the scuttle. No idea how that was done from engine to scuttle or scuttle to engine?
     
  8. g60_edge New Member

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    Awesome thread.
    Quick question, is the clutch pedal switch only necessary if your using the cruise control. Can you ditch it otherwise?
    Thanks
    Alex
     
  9. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    Anyone work out what number 8 was? 8 - brake connector???
    It has Red/Green & Brown/Black. Could be PAS pressure but i want to check before i chop it out.

    So im currently removing the SAI Pump, SAI solenoid valve, charcoal canister & Starter cables. Sound ok for a 24V into a CE2 MK2 VR6? Pretty sure im going to keep the MK3 clocks so will need to add a couple of cables in for the oil light, Correct?

    Also did you remove the 2 last cables from the brown SAI relay plug? I think they go back to the ECU connector or did you just cut them off?
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2011
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  11. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    Ah reverse switch! I did have a look on ETKA but it didnt show the correct colours for that!
    Oh well, At least i can use it as i have an 02J tower.

    I have de-pinned the other stuff, wrapped in tape and put it back up the loom. I will use vag-com to remove them completely.
    (Laser pin tools are great btw!)

    So thats the 1st part done, Now i need to go through the interior loom to get the rest of it sorted from the T14 connector[xx(]
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    T14 is easy peasy. if you start with a digifant 8v mk2 loom you have most of the pins you need in the 5 pin plug in the scuttle, if you drag it out the scuttle to the battery area the length is perfect to just pop the mk2 pins into the mk4 plug :thumbup:

    i swapped the green/red starter motor trigger pin to the speedo sensor pin, as the mk4 doesnt need starter live. then i crimped JT pins onto the brown/white & brown earths from the head/dash coolant sensor and popped them to the 2 earth pins, and did the same for dash temp sender wire. the brown/whirte wire needs earthing to head so when i do those i add a length of wire spliced to the brown/white near the mk2 coil airea, and run this to the side of the head.

    the ecu connector i run into scuttle via the middle hole where ecu loom used to go, and i also drag the mk2 wiper plug back and thru here too. then the old wiper hole is where i run the 2nd half of the mk4 ecu loom
     
  13. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    Yeah easy:lol:

    Mine is VR6 already so slightly different.
    Need to rip apart the other looms and see what i have got to play with.
    Im hoping to use as much of the MK4 loom as possible, Including the fan controller part. Its currently wired up to use the MK3 one but it all looks plug & play:thumbup:
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    try it in a mk3 golf, way more difficult due to the way the looms route :lol:

    well i would use a new donor mk2 loom rather than cutting up the vr conversion loom but its your call :)
     
  15. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

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    I have a spare MK3 VR6 loom to cut up.
    I bought everything twice so i can sell the VR6 as a conversion ready to go. Although a mate has his eyes on it:lol:
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    better off with a mk2 loom, unless your car has been chopped to accept mk3 loom grommets and such?
     
  17. g60_edge New Member

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    Has anyone got the oil temp sensor (yellow/black wire in the sump connector) working for the MFA (Corrado in my case)?
    Weirdly, oil level/temp is completely missed of the APX wiring diagram.
    Thanks
    Alex
     
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    what i do is ignore the mk4 sensor wiring completly, and instead leave the old mk1/2/3 oil pressure and temp wires in the loom. then just swap old sensors over and plug in!
     
  19. g60_edge New Member

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    Cheers for the reply.
    Yep, I've left the 2 x oil pressure wires and oil temp wire in the Corrado loom.
    Not sure what you mean about the sensors. I can't visualise my old oil temp sensor, where do you integrate this into the engine?
    I take it this simple approach won't work then. Is the in-sump 20vT sensor signal not compatible with the clocks/MFA?

    Oil Temp - using the in-sump 20vT sensor connect the yellow/black wire (again in the 14 pin connector) up to the equivalent in Corrado loom.

    Oil pressure - using the 20vT sensor, connect the black insulated 20vt wire (in the 14pin plug) to both the equivalent Corrado wires (probably change to 2 sensors for low and high pressure in the future)

    Cheers for your help
    Sorry if this is a stupid question!
    Alex
     
  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the old oil temp sensor is a small white colar jobber, on the 16v its on the back of the head. on vr6 i guess its in filter housing? use the 2 oil pressure switches off the old engine either way as mk4 only has 1 and its the wrong rating for mk1/2/3/corrado dash. i think the mk4 filter housing has 3 oil holes so you're sorted, otherwise use a sump plug adaptor or a T piece or whatever.

    thing with the sump sender is it may not be the correct rating, its also a low level warning so im pretty sure the signal wont be compatible. you can always give it a try though, black/yellow is oil termp and level warning, brown is earth and black/blue is ign live.

    as i say, mk4 oil pressure switch isnt the right rating so cant be used. you could use the mk4 wire with 1 of your oil switches, but you would still need to run a separate wire for the other one as your dash needs both of the sensors to work.
    its far neater imo to just run the 3 corrado wires taped together to the filter housing rather than 1 on its own, plus the mk4 wire
     

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