i dont think so as the vr6 one will be wider.use a mk2 g60 item where its slightly beefed up a bit in the middle or invest ins ome eibach's as they really are worth it
I have found a seat Toledo x member from a 1998 ABF. I have not seen it as its from an online breakers. I have just done a search on vagcat and it shows up 191199171E for pretty much all the x members for the Toledos. This same number shows up for mk2 golfs/jettas. Can someone shed anymore light on this?
vr6 arb is completly different fitment, its no good to you. 191 199 171 E is oem MK2 radiator carrier, the part you need is: 3A0 199 201 B - 177+VAT 89-95 Corrado VR6 88-97 Passat 3A0 199 201 D is the toledo, fitted to 92-99 models with ABF
so even though its not shown clearly on the diagram. 3A0 199 201 D is definitely the part I need so the one I have sourced should be right?
if its deffo toledo abf one yeah its what you need, just make sure its engine support part not rad part. or both if still together is fine
just to clarify - I dont need the actual lock barrel? how do I remove the transponder ring? also is the black box in the dash and whats it connected to? I have got as far as disconnecting the engine wiring plugs from the fusebox but cant pull the wires as they are wedged behine the brake servo so will be removing that tonight.
the transponder ring simply pulls off from around the barrel.youll need the barrel if you want to fit the barrel then use that key for ignition.the black box is the transponder itself that and wiring is needed
pull the transponder ring from around the barrel, then follow the wiring to the box. this box has wireing to the immob jumper block above the fusebox, it also has earth & ign live feeds. As above if you want to use the orig vr key(s) to run your car pull the ign housing out. otherwise you can get a blank MK3 transponder key cut by a locksmith to match your locks, then just pop the chip out of the VR6 key and fit it to your freshly cut one. For the short term tape the VR key into transponder ring and stuff it behind the dash, or do it like that permanent like if you dont care about having the immob working. Dont forget to pull out the diagnostics connector, its next to the ashtray behind a panel that slides across. Also note there is a single wire from engine loom to transponder box, you can see the wire i mean in the bottom pic, its the grey/white wires with brown plugs:
thats great guys thanks for the info and pics, making a whole lot more sense now. Later on is it possible to take the door barrels out of the mk3 and fitting them into mk2 handles. Would love to keep the one key for all locks option thats all. the mk3 also has a cobra alarm fitted. Will this stay in the car or will it be spliced into all the wiring above?
no, but i beleive the tumblers from the mk3 locks will fit the mk2. as i say tho, buy yourself a mk3 transponder key blank off ebay, pay locksmith 1 odd to cut it to match your old key, swap chips over
depends on where the alarm is spliced into! usually most of the splicing will be to ign switch and fuel pump. obviously if antyhting is spliced to the engine loom, then this will be removed. if you carefully document each pin that is spliced into, you should be able to add it back into the VR loom the same way without any fuss.
what if I leave the alarm removed. just to clarify the alarm is in the VR already. and the mk2 has some sort of touch fob imob.
depends what the wires you leave disconnected do the MK2 1 touch fob thing remove it and throw in the bin, no need for it since VR already has an immob built in. As for the alarm, do you actually want it?
Hey John, just had another look at your pic (after removing the diag port) and I notice you kept the green plug intact. What I have done is pull the red and brown wires for the port free from all the other red and brown wires from the loom. I thought I could add these to the rest of the red and brown wires from the mk2, please tell me I am right? also noticed the seperate block the yellow and grey wires going into dont connect any where else from the sepaerate block, why is this?
the green plug also does the brake light switch, i left it intact as you can just swap the mk3 green plug into the mk2 fusebox. doesnt actually matter what you do, all that matters is the black wire to this plug gets ignition (coil) live! jumper block is literally just there to connect the grey wire from the transponder box to the grey/white wire on the diagnostics plug. you could just solder em together if you wanted and bin the jumper block. I'm an OEM freak though so I want it exactly as VW intended.
so the brown wire and the red wire that I have seperated can be added easily to the mk2 wiring right? I think I have the green plug intact so will swap that over.
dont need to add brown & red, those arte for the brake light switch. just need to add the black wire to the mk2 plug, or just find another ign live feed just have to make sure its a coil live i.e. live with ign on and cranking, not x-over live which is only live with ign on and not cranking. whjat i would do is pop the black wire out of the mk3 plug and pop it into the mk2 plug in the same spot. if you cant get the pin out just chop the plug wiuth a sharp knife.