UK Kamei Mk1 Golf Replica - Prescott Hillclimb on page 53 !!!!!

More goodies today :

Made by a work mate, so i can now connect my camera to the cigarette lighter.

I have the camera end on spurs so that i can change ends for my other camera & still connect it back to the original power supply (that now has spur connectors on too).





It has a hole underneath where you can adjust the output from 1v to 13v


Iv'e been told that i have to cover the metal part on top of the box.

 

Oh bugger......

Just had a knocking coming from the front of the car which i knew as soon as i started to tap the accelerator what it was:







I had the bolt welded To stop un-screwing & the left side of the mount was welded to the panel but as you can see the panel has started to rip away because of the weakness due to corrosion.
[:^(]

 

Right need some opinions from you peeps:

I'm going to sort this front end out & was wondering is it worth SORN ing the car? & getting all the tax back (until next Jan) & while i am stripping all the front off/out maybe taking out the engine/box to get the plate welded in for the steering rack strengthening mod on the bulk head (enabling slick tire usage also if needed).

....could repaint the block & tidy bay up while it's out but if i go this far i can't see the car being finished for a good few months as i am probably going to find other stuff to do while it's off the road?

& if it's garaged would you get your insurance (up in may) changed to 3rd party fire & theft?

 

So any help on the above? & can you weld the plate in just by removing the manifold or will the engine have to come out?

 

i recon its worth saving and getting the panels fitted properly once but you know that

 

aye wish i could get the back one at the same time but have to many other bills to pay.

 

Had a quote for front end work which i am happy with & i might get martin to lighten the flywheel also while the engine is out & if i get another job done i can run the engine at higher revs but still be able to control it electronically.

 

Right started on the car today by removing the bonnet, drained coolant, removed radiator then stripped the front down & lastly removed the bumper:



As you can see the front panel was well shot:




The welded front mount ripping away:


That's what you get when your car is repaired at a Ford body shop 8 years ago .
& they made the same mess of the back one .

 

Bet your gutted, it's the one thing that puts me off buying a mk1 or mk2 now, the dreaded rust and old dodgy repairs.

Have you ever thought about learning to weld??

 

I'm not gutted to be honest as i have been waiting for an excuse to do some proper preparation on the car & i am amazed the panel lasted this long as it's been in a dieing state for a long time now.

I'm going to do the rear panel before it goes back on the road to so it may be a few months yet but i have other plans for her while she's resting .

Edit: i phoned the insurance (HIC) today as it runs out next month & they said i could insure it as "stored & not road used" for a year of FPFT for 90 so i might get a quote next month for 6 months 1st.

 

thats a good price aint it but why insure it if its not on the road ?

 

Because only yesterday a car was on fire on my estate .

If the garage was to go up in flames i would lose the lot.

 

done a few things since this pic & are pretty much ready to drop her out now & we are going to try to leave the 4-branch & metering head & cooler still attached if possible.

A pic of the larger throttle body i run with:


The Vernier:


Sandwich plate & cooler:


Some parts i am hoping to clean up:

I think i might need to change the (bushes?) circled in above pic, round black one as they look worn (not sure what called but at opposite end to the bolt that holds the lower brace on.), are they hard to do?

 

Engine out:









One thing i need to check is that we noticed a tiny bit of oil on the next pic highlighted in yellow (but only in the groove) & it wasn't any lower down (on the the silver housing) which would be behind the shield so is this ok?

 

I'd replace that main seal at the first sign of wear as oil leaking from there can find it's way onto your flywheel/clutch without too much trouble and contaminate the friction disc, meaning the clutch is useless. It also looks like there's a bit of oil in the bottom of the bellhousing where the seal's been leaking.

The bushing at the rear of the control arm is easy as pie to replace. The main thing to remember when removing the control arm is to undo the front securing bolt very gently and slowly. The nut for it is welded into the frame and is an awful repair job if you strip it out (you have to cut a notch in the frame and weld in a new nut dead straight and then patch the area and weld and seal it again!! ). Be careful with the rear two nuts aswell as the bolt is only welded to the floorpan and if it's rusted a bit, it'll break off with too much side load.

To get the rear bushing off, just spray some WD40 into it, lightly clamp it in a vise and rotate the control arm until the stub slides out of the bushing.

If you do the front ones aswell, these are harder to remove. Either set them on fire (I'm not kidding - it works well ), or drill lots of holes in them and then chisel them to pieces until they fall out. If you use Bugpack front bushes, they just press in with ease by hand. The VAG bushings are a ***** to install and too soft anyway. The other thing you might aswell do is buy some new control arms as they're cheap and the old ones are often a bit bent

 

Just had another look at the pics... case in point!!

 

I will show the seal to someone to get a second opinion as it might be a case of a bit of moisture from the grease as there was only a tiny bit & no sign of any leakage.

I don't suppose you took any pics when you did any of the above jobs did you mate?

Edit: ok cheers, how much are they usually?

 

I don't think I did, sorry I'll check my photos in case, though

 

Is it advisable to use new bolts on the flywheel? (those tiny ones).

 

yah i think they are stretch bolts