wideband o2 setup?

Discussion in 'Throttle bodies & non-OEM ECUs' started by alexisblades99, Feb 3, 2010.

  1. alexisblades99 Forum Member

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    just a quick one - how far into the exhaust stream does the sensor have to sit? ie how proud of the inside of the exhaust?
     
  2. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    The bung should be the right length. If its going to be close to the head an extender bung can be used to protect from heat.
     
  3. alexisblades99 Forum Member

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    the sensor will be sited just after the manifold/downpipe flange. the bag the bung came in has 'extended bung' written on it, and the bung is 25mm long so that sounds ok. innovate recommends making up a heat sink out of some steel plate to protect the sensor.

    including the thickness of the pipe itself this would put the tip of the sensor flush with the inside surface of the exhaust. does that sound about right?
     
  4. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    That sounds ok, i doubt very much you need extra heat sink tho
     
  5. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    Yea just use what they give ya. Heat sink is more for close to turbo installations
     
  6. alexisblades99 Forum Member

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    cracking, thanks guys.
     
  7. Tomo IOW Forum Member

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    as i found out ooppps
     
  8. alexisblades99 Forum Member

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    oh dear, what happened?
     
  9. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    If you want fancy gauge then you can get xd-1 gauge, i use one it has digital readout as well as led-s with programable colours and it simply plugs in to the terminator socket plus 12v supply

    Also has calibration button built in and you can set alarm function on it

    If you get bored of it it can be configured into some other gauge like a rev counter
     
  10. Tomo IOW Forum Member

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    i had mine on the elbow of the turbo outlet,but the heat of the turbo caused the senser to fail. i now need a heat shield bung, to bring it away from the exhaust pipe but still allow it to read the gas
     
  11. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    Thats why i mounted mine in the existing lambda hole away from the heat. If you read the instructions its quite clear.;)
     
  12. alexisblades99 Forum Member

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    well it looks like i'm going to have to remove the downpipe to weld in the boss after all. i was a little unrealistic thinking i could fit it with the downpipe in situ, and still get a good quality weld. with my limited welding skills anyway.
     
  13. alexisblades99 Forum Member

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    i'm now in the process of fitting the o2 sensor, but i have a quick question.

    i welded a boss into the exhaust under the gearshifter (the only place where there was room for the sensor to sit), but there are a couple of joints upstream of it. i could theoretically weld these, but it would mean several hours of extra work to fit the pipe in one piece.

    so is it acceptable to use exhaust pipe joint sealer upstream of the o2 sensor - as long as it all seals correctly and doesn't allow any o2 to leak in will this be ok?

    cheers,olly
     
  14. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    up stream is to be avoided. it would ruin the sensor if it got any one it.

    your car is a syncro isnt it? other wise i would have said put in the down pipe under the manifold connection
     
  15. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    I have mine in the original location. There is the joint just before it but its not leaking and is a flange. Slip on joints are more pron to leaks therefore false readings.
     
  16. alexisblades99 Forum Member

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    ****. i have actually fitted it all together this morning, pipe sealer on the joints and everything. bugger.

    i've got the gauge running and it's reading fine, if any of that sealer flakes off would it really contaminate the sensor? it's the white kind of sealer that goes crusty when it sets.

    should i be seriously thinking about pulling the exhaust off and welding a boss into the manifold/downpipe flange after all?

    how frustrating.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2010
  17. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    dont pull it apart, just run it for a week or so, then take the sensor out and make sure its not got any paste stuck to it.
     
  18. alexisblades99 Forum Member

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    thanks for putting my mind at rest, i'd pretty much decided not to bother doing it again anyway, and just get another sensor if it goes. slip joints aren't leaking at all, but i'll keep an eye on them every now and then. next week i'll pull the sensor out and inspectigate, but it doesn't really poke down into the exhaust stream that much so it should be fine.

    on a more positive note i've got the gauge installed nicely. off for a drive tomorrow to see if there's any need to fit the 16v WUR i've got knocking around.
     
  19. alexisblades99 Forum Member

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    just taken it for a spin to the offy & the downpipe's knocking against the bulkhead, which means disturbing all the slip joints to re-position it, which means if it isn't sucking air in now it will be then. so off with the whole lot again tomorrow. i'll move the sensor bung to just after the manifold like i'd planned to start with. bit of a faff but i suppose it's worth doing it right.

    tshirt2k i think i think you were right, it may well be sucking in air through the slip joints upstream of the sensor, giving me a false reading. i'm guessing it doesn't take a lot of air getting sucked in to skew the readings substantially? idle is 14:1, part throttle around 16:1, full throttle about 15:1.

    what sort of AFRs should i be expecting on a well set-up system with relation to idle, part-throttle, full load etc?
     
  20. Brookster

    Brookster Paid Member Paid Member

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    12.5 : 1
     

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