well that shows you the injectors arnt leaking yes, but nothing else of any value like spray pattern or volume etc
yep, I just had 5 minutes while waiting for my girlfriend to go out of her office, with my car parked in front of the building so that's all I could really do there
Hey , look at what I found http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...50475159743&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123 would it be what I need? Or won't threads be the same, etc? thanks!!!
That's the same one I bought, from the same guy. Works just fine, loads of adapters for the threads. I had to pay customs on mine though.
hey, I haven't been able to do any tests yet as I'm rebuilding another car and it's taking all my money... anyway I checked the fuel pressure regulator orings (see this) and they looked pretty good. They were a little worn but as I can't find replacement seals like these anywhere (and I mean, ANYWHERE!! ) they'll stay as they are.... so that's one less thing to check now. I'll leave injectors out of the car for 3 minutes whenever I can do it and I'll come back with news
Hi, I did the fuel pressures test today. I let the car warm UP to full working temp. I've recorded a clip Once started, the pressure has started rising up pretty fast, but when it's hit 1Bar, it's fallen back to 0.5 and then quickly up to 1bar again. may this be an air buble? then it's gone up as it should. I've checked it and WUR mod had already been done at some point in the past as the control pressure was 3.4bar. System was 5,2 When I shut off the engine, pressure dropped down to 2,8Bar within 30 seconds! but then it went as it follows. After 55 minutes from the shut-off, pressure has been decreased really fast (red-marked): Min after ----- pressure 5------------------------2,65 10-----------------------2,58 15-----------------------2,55 20-----------------------2,48 25-----------------------2,43 30-----------------------2,41 35-----------------------2,36 40-----------------------2,30 45-----------------------2,26 50-----------------------2,22 55-----------------------2,20 60-----------------------2,15 72-----------------------1,20 74-----------------------1,00 76-----------------------0,90 78-----------------------0,80 80-----------------------0,70 84-----------------------0,60 so... what else should I look at? :S
ok pressures seem fine, have you redone the injector test to check spray pattern and volume? pull the 5th injector too, see what it does when cranking cold and when left unplugged for a bit when parked up hot (make sure it doesnt drip for 5 mins or so) then try starting it again when symptoms occur, make sure the 5th inj doesnt spray. it should ONLY spray when car is stone cold. if spraying hot the 5th inj thermoswitch is bust or you have a wire fault
5th injector connector is unplugged. I'll do a delivery + spray pattern test today if I can. I'll do the pressures test again next week, as I'd like to see if that slight pressure drop was just because of an air bubble or if there's something bad. I've also read in VW K-jet repair manual that WUR can be checked by unplugging its vac pipe (and pressure should drop to 2,4 - 3,5 bar).
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/k-jetpressuretests.pdf http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/k-jetfactorymanual.pdf some good info there. the bently one tells you how to check wur warmup phase also, though tbh this doesnt sound liek your problem. its worth checkign to see what your fuel pressure is when the startup issue occurs
hey, thanks for these pdfs I did the delivery test yesterday. First of all... should the metering head flap be like this when fully up??? I thought it would be horizontal Well then, after the first launch, I got this result. As you can see, cyl2 had a very little more fuel than the others: It took me a couple attempts to adjust it propperly, and I left it like this, which I think is pretty good: I couldn't take any spray pattern pics as the bottles were too "blue" but they all looked fine, E X C E P T cyl. 1 which also had a good cone pattern but kept "moving" the direction it spraid . The test was done with stone cold engine, and after removing the injectors from the bottles, I dried them with a piece of hand-paper and then left each one on a piece of paper and...... cyl.1 injector leaked a little drop of fuel every 20 or 30 seconds (would it be enough to not letting the engine start up propperly after 15minutes to 8 hours since shutting it off after being up to temp?) the last annoying thing is that I found a small amount of fuel between the torx and allen bolts when I first removed the torx one for adjusting.... I had already dried it when I took the pic but you can get the idea:
that no 1 injector sounds a bit suspect then,1 drop every 30 sec,thats 60 drops over half an hour,which would be enough i think to cause a problem,the way to test though is when you park up,take that no1 inj out,leave it in a bottle over a few hours and see how much is in there,then pop the inj back in,start the car and see if the problem goes the delivery looks ok,the levels are fairly even,did you do it to spec,i.e so many ML over a period of time
right, I'll do it next time I park it no, I didn't do it to spec, as I don't know the amount of fuel it should be. however if CO is OK, at least I know that on idle it's ok. I should test delivery at full charge shouldn't I? where can I find the specs for it? thanks
right got the auto data book here and it says with the injectors positioned over a suitable container,operate the air flow sensor flap until 20ml of fuel has been injected into the compartments,compare the difference in quantity of fuel delivered between each injector which should not be greater than 3ml between highest and lowest quantities so no need to time it,i think thats for fuel delivery at the pump
sounds like #1 is the cause of all your issues, best get it replaced! ideally get a set of new ones but you could replace just #1 then adjust the flow rate since you already know how to be 100% sure, swap injector #1 and #2 over. if problem moves its the injector, if not its the metering head
the starting problem will still be there wont it john if he swaps injectors round,obviously swapping them and number 2 starts dripping then its the injector at fault
I'll do what Neil said: popping inj.1 out of the engine when car has been just parked, wait for 15 mins and restart. I'll not be able to do it until thursday I'm afraid But I'll come back as soon as I've done it. thanks!
id leave it a bit longer than 15 mins,leave it as long as you normally would that gives you the start problem,but with the leaking one out
