1988 Gti 16v Rough Running Issues - Found a couple of things - Need help!

Thought I'd look into my warm start issues. So had a bit of a nosey around the fuel pump and noticed that the metal pipe which goes to the middle of it is wet with fuel. Could this be causing my problem of the car not starting properly when it's warm, as the fuel pressure drops when it's been sitting for a while after being driven?

 

Well it needs sorting asap as it's the main feed under a lot of pressure, could be Causing the issue

 

Fuel leaking from anywhere is less than ideal lol. I'd get that sorted before I drove it again I think!

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If you need any bits just give me a shout. Have all the kjet pump parts and pipes I no longer need.

 

I had this, it was crappy halfrauds copper washers not sealing, ended up wet and drying the originals and sealed straight away!


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I thought it was maybe the non return valve? As I've got hot start issues. Takes ages to start if it's been sitting for more than 10 minutes after a drive. But could also be the washer as you say, Tom. Going to have a closer look during the week. Do I just disconnect the electronic plug on the pump and undo the nut, or will fuel poor out everywhere?

 

Thanks. I'll let you know if I need any parts mate.

 

I will check it out. Ordered a new non-return valve just in case it's shot.
Thanks yet again!

 

Gazz if your taking anything off the pump/housing disconnect battery then take the cap off the fuel hatch in the boot floor and pull the feed and return lines off the pick up spigots (ie the 2 spigots you can see) otherwise you'll be laying in 2 litres of v power as it comes out of the tank by capillary action (ask me how i know, that stuff burns like a beach)

check if its an crap washer: dry it all off then get someone to flick ignition as you watch it. as it primes you should see where the leak is coming from. Of course it could just need a proper tighten to make it FT

 

You can anneal copper washers to make them softer too.....just heat them up to a cherry red glow and then quench in water......this will soften them making them take up the surface required to form a good seal

Please dont tighten fuel banjo bolts FT though.....you will be left with quite a large leak when it snaps off in your pump

 

Thanks fellas. Sound advice yet again. I greatly appreciate it. Top work!

 

New overrun cut off valve fitted and it's running fine. Just need to sort the fuel leak as soon as my new non return valve turns up from classic VW.

 

Running ok when hot? Wonder if you've finally sorted it!


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I'll let you know tomorrow if it's solved the running hot issue, but I think that's more of a fuel pressure problem caused by the leak?

 

Fitted a new non-return valve. But it's now leaking from a different place. It was leaking from where the red arrow is pointing. It's now leaking from where the yellow arrow is pointing. Tried swapping the washers and even sanding them, but I think I'll have to buy a new one for where it's leaking from. Changed it all over, primed the pump and no leaks. Decided to let it tick over for five minutes and stuck my little finger between the petrol pipe and the top of the pump and I had a tiny spot of petrol on the end of my finger. But, a leak is a leak, no matter how small. It's the washer that sits between the non-return valve and the fuel pump, then the fuel pipe goes on. This is the most ridiculous set up! Would it not be better to use rubber washers?

 

Still having warm/hot start issues as well. Fuel Accumulator? Any ideas?

 

I think they tend not to use rubber washers cos (at least back in the day) the rubber would get eaten by fuel and it naturally degrades.

would have thought that a new set of copper washers would fix this little leak and your right, a leak is a leak especially when its petrol. and its MOT failure i believe.

Im pretty sure hot start issue is due to the fuel accumulator not being able to hold enough pressure, pretty sure RJ has a test for this in the 'how to set up' guide.

Other than hot start, is it running better now with the new cut off valve?

 

Yes. Running better with the new over run cut-off valve. Seem to remember RJ saying that the accumulator had a screw on the back. Unscrew it, if it leaks at all - it's knackered!