Gary I'd go with the standard bearings, unless you're pressure charging, "heavy duty" bearings wont achieve anything. Many "heavy duty bearings" are made of the same material as the standard bearing but in order to give the bearing a thicker, stiffer backing the soft metal is reduced in thickness which is what makes them less forgiving to foreign matter. After all, the crank should never come into contact with the bearings.
Nice one, sounds good this thread is going to be one of those ones that constantly reminds me I prob should have pulled finger out and fiddle with mine before i put it in.
Just got to wait for the bits to arrive in a couple of weeks then we can get the block bored to match the new pistons.
hi gary , you have had a real gooduse out of that motor of yours ,just amazed, on how long its lasted , good luck with the new one ,its gona be interesting to see just how muchbore wear is on your old motorafter all that trackday treatment , paul h
G, I would recommend a bottom end gasket set as well, you get loads and that kit contains loads of seals, ive not use the seals as I used the VAG one's but the gaskets came in very handy. oh and rod bolts Edited by: stephcasscar
You get ARP rod bolts with the Scat rods ARP bolts for the standard rods are 100-130 , these steel rods with ARP bolts are >200 Basically I'll need..... 2 litre head gasket (VAG metal one, had no probs with the one on my car since I fitted the flowed head in '04) Head bolts. Windage tray with built in sump gasket. 037 115 220B Front and rear crank seals, inter shaft seal Gaskets for the front and rear main seal carriers 2 'o' rings for the block plastic baffle breather. gasket for the oil filter housing (different than a KR) oil pump 051115105a Good quailty (ie not Brazilian) Big end and main bearings Clutch and flywheel bolts. Crank pulley bolt. Cam belt and tensioner. Cam cover gasket and half moon seals. Can't think of anything else Edited by: GVK
I'll be very interested on how you get on Gary , i'm building a very similar spec engine myself also using those Scat rods and bolts (should be here anyday). Best of luck with the build
rradogolfman, i realised that shortly after i posted. My bad.Scat actually sorted the second and subsequent batches of 159's anway. Gary, I would strongly recommend arp's for the mains as well. And somwhere on vwvortex there were cap/crank walk comparisons done with vag stretch bolts and arp's and it was said to beno longer negligibleif going over 8000 rpm. I'll try and find it, makes interesting reading.I'm not saying your revs are likely to be that high at this stage but futureproofing for the inevitable jenveys is surely worthwhile, seems a shame not to with all the rest of the exotic bottom end hardware.
First parcel arrived today, Schrick alloy baffled sump from http://www.bar-tek-tuning.de/ Holds an extra 0.75 ltr of oil than stock sump. Edited by: GVK
good work gary i got me one of those on my bedside cabinet at the mo,, be sure to fit with eteh vw windage tray, (mk3 tdi sumpgasket 22.50 from GSF)
And now a another pic of the something kinda special Engine PORN!!!!!!!!!!!!! Happy new crank and I/M shaft matey
Steph, I was quoted 289 retail for a new 16v oil pump by VW - knocked it down to 199 for "trade". Where did you get your pump from? Gary - pm me if you need a windage tray.
I'm using, and have always used the GSF pumps. Never had one fail on me yet, and at 45 are a good price over the VAG unit. Quality is good, with no backlash in the pump gears. Or have I missed the point
Mart, looking good I trust the crank did the funky chicken in full effect during the operation? Olly, most people have a lamp on their bedside...
