88 GTI 8v first start after 10 years any advice welcome

Discussion in '8-valve' started by GTIBOB, Jul 14, 2020.

  1. Simon Peter Dodgson Forum Member

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    If its going to go hosepipe is less scary than hot coolant
     
  2. costel1969

    costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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  3. NateS2

    NateS2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Shouldn't imagine there will be any damage, unless you go crazy with a pressure washer. The system is pressurised until normal running anyway
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the inlet hose is on the passenger side, its the hose from side of head. outlet to metal pipe. would want to flush it both ways anyway, but if its clogged flushing doesnt really help so much as water flow just bypasses the blocked cores. wont do any harm and will at least clear out any old coolant. worst case put a new one in, its not as scary as people make out so long as you do it the easy way ;)
     
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  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  6. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Many thanks for advice/ links re coolant. Firstly I’m going to fit this new accumulator pump at weekend to try to get this old girl running again. Then I’ll give the pipes a flush with hose.it’s definitely the pink coolant isn’t it?
    Cheers
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    originally it was blue G11, then pink G12, then purple G13. think its back to G12 something now. just dont mix g11 and 12, 13 and newer will mix with either. can use whatever though tbh, as long as its rated for mixed metal coolant systems. mate of mine uses GM stuff as can get it cheap
     
  8. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    So she’s running again
    Took all advice and fitted second new accumulator pump today. It took about 20 seconds turning over to get fuel up to injectors then she fired up. Delighted . Still puzzled as to how a new pump which had only run for about an hour tops could fail just sitting there for three months. Now worried same might happen a third time but hey we’ll not go there.
    Thought she was a bit rattly on tick over but quietned down after about 10 mins. So I’m hoping I can now work through the next few jobs without any more backward steps.
    Thankfully all electrics seems to be working although the MFA sometimes works and other days it stays completely blank. Would be nice to have it running properly but not a big issue for me. For a while after today’s startup the green indicator led stayed on constantly even after indicators cancelled. On final start no constant indication led on???
    Noticed some dash illumination bulbs apparently blown over tacho . Is it a major headache to pull out clocks to replace bulbs and are these easy to get hold of?
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2021
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  9. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    check the cluster earth to head, its a brown/white wire to the side somewhere. it runs up to a female spade near fusebox which then goes to cluster plug. for indicator led wiggle fuse 19 next time it happens, but may be related to main earth being poor. wiggle fuse 3 as well thats your permanent live to cluster. ignition comes straight from ignition switch, but wouldnt affect the digital clock though so unlikely to be that
     
  11. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks RJ will double check these fuses.
    On a side issue I’m still having problems getting the coolant flanges to seal on front and side of block. Front flange had hair crack which I tried to block using epoxy plastic metal inside and outside of the crack. Side flange is plastic replacement. Both flanges have new o rings and some instant gasket and bolts well tightened but still a drip from both?
    Is K Seal radiator/ head gasket sealer (additive in small blue bottle) worth a try or is it a waste of time???
     
  12. H8V

    h8v Forum Member

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    Good news that it's running now, GTIBOB.

    Re. the side coolant flange, mine has leaked for years due to corrosion of the aluminium cyl head around the O ring groove. I tried cleaning up the head and assembling with quick set araldite as a sealant. That was always succesful, but only for a year or so each time, probably because of expansion/contraction due to temp changes.

    Latest fix was to scrape out any muck from the corrosion pits, clean up with meths and then reassemble using a red high temp RTV gasket compound which will remain slightly flexible. That's been OK for a couple of years now.
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    dont bother with sealant type stuff, it doesnt do your cooling system any favours.

    if your front alloy flange is cracked you'll just have to replace it, if you cant find the right one you can change to later digifant plastic version but need both sensors to match. make sure head surface for both is clean, fill any pitting with chemical metal. if the side flange isnt new replace it, as they warp with age and never re-seal. ideally genuine if you can they last much better. check coolant hoses also, clean out the area they seat on flange for both, sometimes you end up with old chunks of alloy embedded in the rubber which stops a nice seal, make sure they're not cracked too. Use proper VW type spring hose clips as well, they're the best as they expand and contract as system heats and cools maintaining constant pressure
     
  14. Giraffe

    Giraffe New Member

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    Great news you’re running again! I fully intend to start and run mine more frequently now just in case the same thing happens again. Well done for not giving up, another job checked off the list and move onto the remaining 100!

    I need to get back on mine, I’ve got all the same jobs to do as you!
     
  15. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yes bit more positive outlook now. Now running and fully serviced (except for timing belt which I keep putting off as afraid I’ll get something wrong and be back to not running again).
    Very tempted to get car trailered to local garage to have belt and timing properly done. Brakes are the next big hurdle. I’ve replaced all discs and pads. Rear callipers were binding so I’ve bought two new rear callipers and new set of flexi hoses, a new compensator and the two trailing arm copper break lines.
    Working on my back under axle stands is becoming more strenuous. I’d love to say I’ve done all the resto work but I’m thinking it’s vital that the brakes and handbrake are professionally checked as the car hasn’t driven on the road since 2000.
    Just thinking life’s too short and I’d really like the car on the road for the summer. Still loads of little cosmetic things to keep me busy.
    Read a post in a forum which suggests that there were only about 1000 Campaign GTIs in each of the three colours Helios blue,Schwartz black and Oak green sold in the UK market. And with 3and5 door variants and 8v and 16v there were maybe only about 250 in each combination.
    Could this mean there were only about 250 black 3door campaigns sold in the UK market????
    And of those how many are still running or on the road?
    Have I read this post correctly. I had thought there must be hundreds of black campaigns still in the uk. Would be delighted to think mine might be one of a couple of hundred left. Are there now low numbers surviving
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    timing belt is easy peasy, the only special tool you need is a basic inductive timing light which are peanuts. brake system also very simple, get a proper flare type 11mm spanner to ensure you dont round off any brake line nuts and have at it.

    the hard part is getting all the air out after, gewt yourself a decent pressure bleed tool, go for one you can pump up yourself as the ones that run off a tyre can be fiddly

    worst case you might find you cant get the carrier bolts off, if so nothing lost just take it to garage as you planned. the exhaust side is most likely to give you trouble as theres no room to work, just pop the backbox off though then you're sorted

    no idea of numbers, but the 1 in 10 million isn't all that rare really as these things go
     
  17. Richard Gilberd Forum Member

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    If you are really scared of the timing belt you could always fast fit it which means cutting the belt lengthways so that half of it is gone and the other half still holding the correct alignment then slip the new one on cut the rest of the old one off and slide the new one fully on and then you haven't messed with anything, it's fully a bodge but i've heard of garages which offer timing belt only change/no new tensioner doing this and i think it's well worth a crack!

    but as John says it's really not a hard job on these motors, you can see everything and if you mark everything and set to t.d.c you shouldn't have any problems
     
  18. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Probably will tackle timing belt next as already have kit.
    Would it be silly not to also change the water pump?
    Everything seems to be running fine with cooling system ie. fitted a new thermostat and fan kicks in as it should also return is flowing from rad to expansion tank and increases with revs so clearly the water pump is working.
    Don’t know if this is the original pump . Car has been off the road since 2001 it had a TB fitted in 2000 but can’t remember if WP also changed.
    The WP seems to be working fine at moment and is totally dry and not noisy.
    Happy to change it if necessary but would rather leave well alone if possible.
     
  19. costel1969

    costel1969 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Leave the pump and just change TB and tensioner - pumps of that era car were far more resilient and if it’s dry and quiet then leave it alone
     
  20. GTIBOB

    GTIBOB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi
    Just doing battle with this crank pulley. Delighted the four studs came out without rounding off.
    Now I can’t get the pulley off and have no room to tap it off.
    I am thinking if I screw these two coach bolts in and move around the Four 6mm holes I should be able to force pulley off the spline.
    These bolts match the threads of the holes and when I screw them in I assume I’m pushing against the block somewhere.
    Could I cause any damage if I tighten these bolts against whatever they’re pushing against. Am I pushing against the lower plastic cover?
    A quick reply would be great as I’d love to fit this T belt tonight.
    Maybe I need a special pulley puller??
    Advice appreciated
     

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