Got a couple of hours in on Saturday to bleed the brakes and fix the alternator wiring. Bled them all through but annoyingly it seems one of the back calipers has seized on after bleeding which is odd as it was fine before. Piston is stuck solid and won't re-wind/free up so looks like I may need a replacement. Quick spin round the block didn't free it off either. Kicking myself for flogging the Ibiza ones now! Battery light issue is now resolved using a section of Mk3 wiring and plug but trying to get to the bottom of the idle issue still. Seems the Mk2 is doing everything in its power to prevent an MOT at the moment lol
Had a few mins to take a look at the idle problem again yesterday. Swapped over the ISV from my old 8v engine to try and hey presto one idling ABF . It would seem for some reason the ABF ISV has died in transit from the Ibiza to the Golf which is a bit odd. Left both of them soaking in petrol overnight again just to get the last of the gunk out and to see if the ABF one can be resurrected. Was having a rummage through the paper work that came with the Ibiza and stumbled across an interesting document. A SEAT dealer receipt for the fitting of a chip to the ECU and a remap totalling best part of 300 - was wondering if anyone could possibly shed any light on this? Other scraps of paper in the folder suggest a company called Sjbsport (seems they do not exist anymore?) and someones hand written statement of an additional 12bhp (hmm lol) to be achieved from it. Replacement rear caliper showed up today along with some ATE Racing Blue fluid too so round two with the braking system this weekend.
Few more hours put in to the car this weekend. First on the agenda was to bleed the brakes up. Armed with 2 litres of ATE Super Blue and a glamorous assistant, two rounds of the brakes with the traditional 2-man bleed method saw the pedal still feeling a bit rubbish. Decided to give a pressure bleeder a go and got a lot more air out but I'm still not overly happy with the result - will have to revisit this at a later date but at least for now I have some form of brakes and a handbrake that works. New caliper fitted up which is a huge improvement on the seized rusty one that came off. With that complete I nipped up the hub nuts to a decent torque (cheers for the wrench jonesy), a quick bucket of water thrown over it to remove several months dust and boshed a few finishing touches on to the car 16v badges: UK legal pressed plates (bit 'scene' I know but they look a lot tidier than the cracked plastic ones I removed) So yeah pretty much conversion complete now (other than mocking up a better ECU tray for the car, vac line is also now connected). Just the G60 arches to go and a damn good clean/polish. MOT is in sight
looking good buddy cant wait to go for a rip ! badges look top ,now that your nearly finished you can come over and help with the bodywork on the mk1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers chaps Massive thanks to RJ again too for the loom and endless hours of advice given, much appreciated Can't wait for the road test now once it's MOT'd etc, then time to iron out any niggles that may arise.
Few small updates on the Mk2's progress. Went over everything again and it made it's maiden voyage to the MOT station last week with the aim of being able to take to the Retro Rides Gathering Sunday just gone. Managed to wangle a slot on short notice as my local garage is sound and like their VW's. Unfortunately I got a phonecall mid morning saying 'Jon, we have your car on the ramps but missfired, cut out and won't restart. Could you come down and take a look'? Arses. Popped down to have a gander and couldn't see anything obviously amiss. Quick bit of fault finding revealed no spark so had no choice but to tow the car home again. MOT incomplete. Once home I popped a new coil on just to see if it would start and hey presto fired straight up! Great! The next day I decided to try the old coil again just to be doubly sure it was that but the car fired up straight away again on the old coil. Hmm. Got Vag-com on it which revealed the code: 00740 - Cylinder 1 Recognition Sensor (G145) 03-00 - No Signal Possible Hall code fault. Weird. Boshed a new ECU relay in there for good measure as well to rule that out but it seems it's still missfiring but with no fault codes this time. If anyone has any ideas on this please do share. My gut feeling says that the new crank sensor I replaced (topran) is faulty but I'm unsure. Starting to get royally ****ed off with Mk3's and their crappy senders! lol Anyhow all of which put the RR Gathering well and truly out of reach meaning I would be in foul mood all of Sunday lol. Decided instead I'd crack open a few beers, the machine polisher and tidy up the bodywork and interior seeing as the car hadn't been cleaned properly in months. Shiny new coil: New 30 ECU Relay (part numbers in case anyone wants them): Whilst cleaning the interior I managed to somehow break the hazard light switch meaning it was inoperable. FFS! Took it all apart and it appeared the white plastic catch had snapped. So, new one of those fitted: With that sorted I got on with addressing 'Tornado Pink' Came up quite nicely if I do say so myself Just got to get the bugger running right now and fit the G60 arches. That's all for now, cheers for reading
Cheers Jonesy, I hope so. I'm really tired of the car currently, especially the mk3 digi management woes but I hope it's all worth it when I finally get to drive the thing haha. Will get the bugger sorted eventually lol
I must have over looked this part of the thread. Great work on replacing the lines, you've done a good neat job there. I desperately need to do this on mine, as ive got a cupra M/S to go on with 280's, and ive got to make up some new lines. Just wondering, where did you buy the new lines from ? And what did you use to bend them ? Top thread though. Ive just read the whole lot again from start to finish Cheers
Cheers Rich. The copper metal lines I just got a roll of it from eBay, was around a tenner I think. For bending them you can get specific tools but I just shaped them with a variety of different sized sockets (good for getting near perfect curves etc) and my hands - good thing about copper is its a piece of p**s to mould to whatever shape you need. Would recommend getting yourself a good flaring tool if you haven't already, was worth it's money (30). HTH Will update this thread again somewhen, car is currently in bits again though with nothing especially interesting to report lol
Delay is my fault, I've had the loom & ecu in to check it over! Been really busy/lazy so I've not managed to send it back yet But this happened recently in between all the rain
Honestly can't thank RJ and Toyotec enough for the their help over the past few months, top chaps Unfortunately I still can't solve the misfire issue the cars been having since September. Loom has been back out of the car and I've replaced every sensor and relay common to ABF problems. Today I spent 4 hours in the ****ing rain changing the crank sensor again for a genuine one. Worst job I've had to do on a car (might have been the torrential rain lol). Guess what, problem still there Really bloody had it with this car now, I just can not get it to run right. If anyone has any ideas on the fault please feel free to shout as I'm running out lol Happy New Year
Just caught up with this thread, loving your work and polishing efforts! My Golf is tornado red... well maybe pink at moment as had machine polisher in boot of X3 for over a month! I know you sense of frustration after all that work it now simply won't run correctly. I'm a BM man and not very up on the ABF but I see you found a bill saying it had been mapped... I'd try another standard Ecu or revert this back to standard..... If you've not tried this already? Would rule this out as cause I'm assuming Seat had CAT installed and your Golf doesn't which means there could be difference in back pressure ??? I know it's a different car but friends Clio Williams 1 developed leak at down pipe causing miss firing... Fact it happened as we arrived at trackday after 100mile driving was met with total dismay from my friend as we couldn't fix it there and he had to watch the mighty Golf take plenty of abuse :-)
I know how you feel! I did the conversion in september 2011 and its still not mot'd Have been having a missfire with my digi abf'd mk2 since last January. Replaced every sensor i could think of, turned out head gasket had gone (engine from breakers yard said to be 100% fine). Put it all back together again and it was a lot better but still miss fired at around 2.5k rpm under load. Decided to do some fiddling and testing and was unplugging sensors then going for a drive to check for any changes etc. Worked my way to where I turned the car off, unplugged the hall sensor started up and went for a quick spin. Clean smooth pull all the way through for the first time in 12 months! So I am in the process of replacing the hall sensor and hopefully that will solve my problems. I did go for an mot with the sensor unplugged but it failed straight away on idle emissions that were at 5% CO. So I think it needs a working hall sensor, and an intake air temp sensor as I didn't have one fitted. Hope this helps
Cheers guys, The_teller - Back on the standard ECU map fortunately Toyotec recallibrated it all for me so that one is all ruled out. I have wondered if there could be a leak at the downpipe or around the manifold but can't see or feel anything obvious when I looked. Reyno - Cheers for the suggestions. I tried another dizzy with a different hall sender which cleared a fault code I was having but unplugging it seems to make no difference. Like you I think I've replaced every sender I can think of now. Best of luck with yours too, keep us posted! I'd like to get it out on the road properly to see how it behaves through the revs, clear it's throat out a bit as it's been sat for a year but with no tax or MOT it's a bit tricky.
Same boat again here no tax or MOT so have been sneakily popping down a very secluded street to test. Which is why I would say to test the hall sensor under load (WOT), unless you already have of course then this post is useless. I found it made no difference just sat on the driveway revving it, mostly because mine only miss fires under load. I have swapped in another second hand dizzy too and it is still miss firing but I am not 100% sure if the hall sensor is working on that one either. Going to have to buy a new one and hope for the best. Also forgot to mention last time, you have an awesome build there. Super clean and looks factory fresh. Made me change my mind about my colour scheme for sure
Id check the wiring to the plug aswel as my old K-jet valver would die after 15 mins and not start again till cooled down, turned out to be a dodgey Hall Sender and also when i sliped the rubber boot back from the 3 pin plug that goes onto the hall sender the cables were nearly snapped, clinging on for dear life!
Hi i've just read your thread start to finish and wow you have done an amazing job! You have a very straight and solid Mk2 i can't believe how well your engine bay turned out! It's a shame to see you've done all this hard work and had no reward as of yet. Trust me it will be well worth it when you get it sorted! Was it mis-firing in the ibiza at all? It might be a poor quality lead or bad plug. have you checked the plug gaps and colours? I know it sounds stupid but you have changed all the sensors to no avail and its not throwing up any fault codes any more (correct me if i'm wrong). It shouldn't be wiring related as you have had RJ do your wiring and when i did my ABF conversion i didnt have to modify any of the loom that goes to the engine sensors so in my mind it has a high chance of being a consumable that you changed whilst the engine was out, i.e lead or plugs etc. Just re read the bit where RJ took the loom and ECU to test it, i guess it tested fine and didn't cause any mis-firing on the engine he tested on?
