Finally got the golf on the road but I have few little problems Not getting 5th gear,had a quick go at the linkages Oil buzzer&light going off when driving,seems fine on idle Temp gauge light flashing What's best way to set the brass idle screw.had a go at setting up idle and co2 this It's driving fairly good besides
1. make sure you have no play anywhere and the plastic rod end clips haven't snapped off. was it ever a 4 speed? if so a fair few of the linkages need changing. have you tried manually selecting 5th on the box? be careful doing that easy to over-shift it 2. swap the 2 oil pressure switch wires round, the wire colours on the mk1 loom are opposite to mk2 3. if it has a level sensor in the tank unplug it and loop the pins, or if it did and now doesnt find the plug its red/blue and brown wire. If you dont have a sensor you can just remove the 42 or 43 relay from the holder above the fusebox to disable level warning entirely 4. does it have the full isv control setup on there or is it just basic kjet wiring? if no isv, does it have an 8v kjet aav instead? best bet is have a pro tune it up for you, eddie is your man if you can get it to him
It's wired with a scirocco 16v engine bay loom Used 2y gear box with new linkage set for 5speed Also has coolant level sensor Using ISV off mk2 kr it's buzzing away with engine running I've set timing to 6 degrees Set co2 to just below the 2% was using the guide posted on the site Revs now are between 1000rpm to 1100rpm was rough before and jumping Should I twist idle screw in to get revs down a bit Also is it normal for fumes to be bit rich at the 2% ish co2
did you remember the 2 bushes on the bottom of the stick? I left those out and it made selection a bit tricky. try tuning the idle as per the guide, so disconnect the red/black spade plug near the coil then set the idle to about 900rpm. also note if you put new injectors in without the air shrouded top hats you need to block off the vacuum line from the breather to the inlet as it'll let too much air past the tips did you get the co tuned on proper equipment as the diy stuff is a bit rubbish, my gunsen told me my digi was 1.8%, but in reality it was liek 0.2%. it smelt rich as it was chuckign out loads of unburnt hydro carbons out the back
was messing around last night with linkage set up now gears are all over the place.also injectors are fairly new with top hats set co2 myself with the gunson meter
got all 5 gears took bit of trick work,another problem has come up rear brakes are sticking and pedal gets rock solid and brake lights stick on seems to free up when I unscrew brake bottle cap.i put mk3 rear discs on the back axle I know some gave trouble but why is system building pressure
next time it does it try loosening off the 2 nuts holding the master cylinder on, does that free it all off? if so what servo & mc combo are you running? check it hasnt got the residual pressure valves in the rear lines, they're down the bottom of the bulkhead just before the 2 rear lines go under the car. cant think how they would cause pressure before the valves though...
did you cut down the mk2 threaded stud and fit the mk1 clevis pin? is there any slack in the crossbar when its playing up
how does the brake bar thing feel when you wiggle it, mine was proper shafted. I made up a bracket so I could fit a mk2 one as I had a new one in my bits box and at the time you couldn't get mk1 units
how do you set up the brake bar going across the bulk head on the mk1.looking around folk have said they needed to shorten it after fitting bigger servo and master cylinder
you want it set so that there is a little slack, make sure its still got some next time the rears start locking up. I didnt have to modify anythign on the car with the mk2 servo and 16v master on my mk1, I just had to chop the servo stud down
