red/black spade behind the fusebox is for the starter live to the 5th inj thermoswitch on kjet, if you spliced the ecu starter live to the main red/black wirte then you dont need it. likewise with the 2nd spade on the starter that is for k-jet and is no longer needed. sounds to me like the ecu isnt powering up, does the ecu relay click?
I've put the 167 relay in for fuel pump, I've also changed the 53 relay I was using for ECU for another 53, still just cranking over. Now the relays I can feel clicking are numbers 220 & 17 (I also removed these two relays when cranking, and no clicking could be heard so its definetly those two). I changed relay 17 in position 8 for relay 18 as it does the same purpose according the fusebox FAQ, yet it still clicks! What does relay 220 do? it's on an external relay socket to the fusebox, has earth, black, two reds into 1 slot, and a red/white wire going to it. Could these cause non starting?
I've tried different earths, changed all relays, still fuel pump isnt priming on ignition It was working before I changed the engines so I can factor that out.
does relay 220 have a vw part number? i think it might be rad fan after-run or something though. does the 53 relay not click? because if not that'll be why. you should have permanent live to pin 30, ign live on pin 86, and earth to pin 85. 87 is the output power to the ecu. check your earths are all good, there was a similar problem with a customers car and after days of phone diagnosis i eventually gave up and went to see him, turned out the guy who installed the loom put the main fusebox earth wire spade to one of the spades the back of the fusebox which makes it do very odd things
Ecu relay 53 doesn't click no! :L Just to double check, I've plugged it in next to the other two large red wires with white spades on the back of the fusebox, I was thinking that the other slightly smaller male spades on the fusebox were perm lives too that are next to them? (thats what it's connected too) I've just gone out and cut the solder off, and crimped a new wire on along with new crimp to the fusebox. Still no luck! Earths, I have the coil earth and the sensor loom ring terminal screwed into what I thought was the earth, on the head (protrudes on its own), beside the coolant temp sensor spade plug on the bulkhead side? Then the rest of the earths I could find are earthed to the strap that connects battery negative to gearbox earthing bolt. Edit: so he technically just put the earth into a continuous loop round the fusebox? haha TBH I wouldn't put it past myself to do something like that.
yeah the spades on the side with the 2 massive red wires are permanent live. check the ignition live spade on the socket is coming on as well, and check the brown has continuity to ground. the big brown wire on the engine loom with the spade on it goes to a white earth jumper which is on the chunky brown wire on the lighting loom, this earths the fusebox and the wipers. the tci unit earths to the battery but the head should be ok too as long as the engine is earthed well. the ecu eartth i splice to the tci earth so it to earths to the battery
Okay so I've checked ECU relay socket and got this; 87- I have Ecu pin 23 going here direct. 85- I have this direct to an earth spade 30- I have this direct to a spade which is connected to one of the smaller live male spade plugs next to the two larger ones. 86- 2 wires into 1 spade in the relay socket:- I have the blk/yellow wire that goes to D plug as normal (ign live going off what you said). Then the black wire that's also in same spade, has blk/red ecu pin 9 & also ISV/breather spliced on the end. I can't see anything wrong with that? Only thing I can think of is, does the black wire need splicing directly onto an ign live wire, rather than being in the same spade as the blk/yellow ign live wire that is in relay socket?
no thats fine, just check with a multimeter between pins 85 and 30 to make sure you have permanent live, an between pins 85 and 86 to make sure you have ignition live
Checked as you said with my multimeter on 20k ohms for continuity, getting 0.00 on the 85 to 30 perm live so thats all good. But on the 85 to 86 Ign live I'm getting 0.62 of resistance, which would explain why the ecu isnt powering up on ignition. But I'm abit confused, as the ignition feed just comes directly from the D plug? :/
you need to check for voltage, not resistance so black probe to the 85 pin, and the red probe to 30 and 86
D'oh sorry got the wrong end of the stick haha, will do! Okay so I've checked for voltage, no key in ignition; Perm live relay spade gets 11.82 Volts Ign live relay spade gets 1.2 Volts Key in ignition turned to position 1 gets; Ign live spade 11.82 Volts These are all good enough voltages? So I'm assuming that must mean both of the two different relay 53s (that didnt click) are dead? Or worse ecu is dead?
ok if you have continuity to ground on pin 85 then you have bad luck with relays! try jumping a bit of wire between 30 and 87 socket that will power up the ecu. if car starts and runs you know the relay or socket wiring is to blame
check for power at the other end, the ecu socket has 2 large pins on it 1 side is the main earth, the other is the output from that relay. check for voltage at the relay power pin and check for earth at the -ve (look on the back of the pin you can see the wire colour)
Have checked this with black probe to earth and red to power pin, without key in etc I get 0.00 volts, when ignition turned to position one I'm getting 11.62 volts, so only a 0.2 drop from the relay socket. So ign live etc is working. Should there be constant volts seeing as there's a perm live connection on the relay socket?
no it should be a switched live so that is all fine, ecu socket is getting power from the relay. problem is elsewhere! have you got the diagnostics going yet?
Would this be suitable? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-USB-D..._Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6#ht_3739wt_1165
