Having both a pressure bleeder and a vacuum bleeder, 2 man pedal system still is my preferred way to go
Tried the nipples-up bleeding, didn't like it No air came out anyway. I do want to repeat the rear brake hoses are custom, not standard. That could perhaps make a difference.
Made a test drive this morning. No coolers bursting open or hoses flying off. That's one. Pressure with cold motor went to 7 bar, quite high. At 90° I didn't see it go over 4 bar and 1 bar when idling. But I am still wondering why I have 2 small oil leaks IN the Goodridge connectors, both on the cooler side... The connector to the adapter (M22xdash10) and the adapter to the cooler remain dry. I did fixate the whole buch tighter but that didn't help. On the adapter plate side they don't leak, only the pressure sensor does. It should be a tapered thread, so I'm wondering how far to go with tightening it.. it's only 1/8 NPT thread.
Rolled the car out of the garage to check the leakages once more before disassembling the connections to send them to the supplier, when my eye caught a small package near the front door. That was from the supplier, with 2 new connections inside. They even called me today, but they didn't mention replacement was already on the way! I even told them that the is no real hurry (they deliver to big raceteams) as I need the car in November, not earlier. Still, mega service of course and I was very happy. I dismounted the cooler but left the hoses attached so I could hold it with the connections on the top side. No leakages initially obviously, but after turning it around ant putting it on its mounting location, there it was. Turning it back didn't help, so I dismounted the hoses and replaced one of the connections. The other one will be done tomorrow. I have to be carefull, as the hoses get shorter and shorter this way... Anyway, I could find anything in play or visual, damages or anything at all in difference between the new and used connections. That bothers me a bit.
Cut the hoses, put the new connectors on. Today I fitted the oil cooler and hoses all back. No leakage on one, same leakage on the other. Man this is nuts. I even applied a small O-ring in the thread, as it was on the 'cheap' set. Didn't work either, same leakage.... Now I ordered the Goodridge M22x1,5 * D10 connection which is in the oil cooler itself, just to be sure. Got it from a different supplier (not cheaper by the way), but D10 should be D10. They also sell the Goodridge hose connections.
This week I've removed the broken sump bolt. Broke 2 drills whilst doing, but still managed to get it all out and re-threaded. I removed the sump, so I had to replace the sump gasket as well, which is a bevel plate, which means the oil pump has to come out, too. Before mounting it all back I checked the small filter on the end of the pick-up and there was some rubbery stuff in, like gasket or something. I decided to clean this as good as possible, and some metal came out, too Is this part available seperately to be replaced? Can't find it myself. With the sump fitted back I replaced the M22x1,5 to Dash10 connector on the oil cooler and re-fitted the connector. Put 4 litres of oil in the engine and the dipstick said the level was on max. I ticked over the engine for like 20 seconds in total (ignition off so it won't start) to push the oil around and into the (empty) cooler. When checking the oil level again I did not see a lower level as before. Strange if you ask me, starter goes around quite well so oil pump is doing at least something, right? Tomorrow I'll start the car, hopefully the small leak is now gone, too. Fingers crossed.
Connections still sweating a bit... Also the one that was not leaking last week Let's what happens in a drive. It's not splashing around anyway.
I know. I have no clue what I am doing wrong. It also is quite strange that I have the -apperantly- only 4 leaking Goodridge connectors on the planet.
I wonder are they "spurious" copies? It happens a lot with automotive parts, a lot of cars ran into trouble with fake Bosch injectors some time ago for example. What's your oil pressure, when cold? It'd never be something weird with the oil you use? Have you tried any others?
It's original Goodridge from ISA Racing in Germany. They supply to many many large Nürburgring racing teams and if they would sell B-brands, they wouldn't exist for a long time. Oil pressure is up to 7 bar when cold, 4 bars when warm. Leakage starts when the oil gets thinner, at 70+ °C. I am running 10W60 oil. The oil from the last trackday was in until yesterday (MPM), after the fix of the oil sump bolt and connector change I'm back to my preferred Motul in the same viscosity.
Oil pressure is in the higher side, but not enough. I wonder so is it oil. MPM wouldn't he held in the same regard as Motul here, it's about the only thing left to try?
Just that Motul would be regarded as a superior oil. You have very little other things left to change
I've only ever seen 1 bar warm on 2.0 8v/16v so it does seem high. though as you say could depend on oil
