Yes that's where I'm afraid of. I already cleaned it up, the screws look quite good. The grease and dust protected it from rusting - well the head at least. The car hasn't been standing outside for more than 15 years nor driven in wet circumstances on the road On the other hand the sweating has turned into "dripping" so I'll have to open it up at some point. If this breaks the assembly I'm all for making a surge tank and additional pump in the front, downside is this is an easy € 500,- thrown away (again).
you can replace the main pump with a MK1 GTI type inline jobber, then all you need is a generic swirl pot to sit in front of it with 3 or 4 ports and make a bracket to hold it all up there
The main pump is the one in the tank or the one in the accumulator on the picture? If it's the second, I could just as well make it all in the front, right? And exactly that is quite expensive, swirl pot, pump, fuel lines, not to mention the dash connections. I'm hoping to be able to remove this in one piece and it's the rubber. In the end this system is working exactly the same, right, to avoid fuel starvation in corners.
the pump is inside the tank, the accumulator is on one side and filter is on t'other. getting a tank which takes the original pump is whats expensive, if you use a mk1 golf external inline pump you can use any 3/4 outlet aftermarket swirl pot which are cheapy cheap. back in the day I used to recommend the MK1 cbaby/rocco/mk2f polo one but those are pretty much NLA these days. something like this to give you an idea of what I mean, mk3 fuel filter & carrier to the right with mk1 pump strapped to the side of it, cab/rocco/polo swirl pot on the left. me and my mate put this together for his rallye but I lost the finished pic
corse after saying that, I do a quick ebay search and find this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262809939480 or something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325751289657
or if you're feeling flush https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk2-golf-fuel-pump-housing-191201043-21350-p.asp
That first one doesn't look too bad, space saver with the pump inside. Can it fit under the car, can't really tell from the pictures. What would be the (dis)advantage of mounting it all in the front? Can the in-tank pump bring the fuel there? As said, I am not looking for an investment of several hundreds again. So the last one looks really neat, but for that money I'd rather make it myself Even the solution you made with the fuelfilter 533 201 511 A as accumulator, it's available but also not too cheap. It looks like which ever way it's put together, a new pump and swirl pot or alike will be the biggest cost (and the dash connector for € 30,- a piece)
Well the screws are removable without problems. The thing is, when the pump is loose the complete tank seems to drain. And it's filled up obviously... I'll order a rubbber and drain the tank before I try again.
Well I drained the tank and fixed it today. The rubber wasn't too bad but it was the corroded housing which I suspect to be the cause. I cleaned it up nicely with the steel brush and a small flat screwdriver so the surface was smooth again. I cleaned the exterior side of the pump as good as possible too. Then fitted a new rubber and mounted it all back. When mounted, I can still rotate the pump in the housing. The screws are tightened to the max. Apart from this I also found a teeny tiny oil leak in the oil pan. It's on one of the welds of the baffles in the sump. I'll try a small drop of decent glue on that to fix it.
Tried to start the car last weekend, first time since Spa last year. Battery was quite dead as I forgot to charge it the last months, so I had to replace it. The other one wasn't charged either, but the booster helped out and it could just jump to life. Had it run until oil was hot to verify if the leak on the cooler was gone, and it was! I fixed the airbox at work, as far as that was possible. Now I can mount the shorter trumpets and fit the airbox, then mount the front back. A new filter is laying at a shop, should be lighter so the arm on the airbox is less heavy compared to the Apexi filter I have now. New bearings and center hub have arrived last week as well, so I want to replace them too. I hope it works out with the strut attached, as I don't want to have the car re-aligned again. Today the ECU master bluetooth device arrived, so I can add can signals from the ecu to the movies. A new GoPro was bought last week, including GPS obviously, and way better images as the old GoPro 1 I have for 13 years now. Booked June 26th on Zolder (B) to go for a ride (11-17h), maybe later this year I'll go to the Bilsterberg in Germany
No luck with the BT module so far, seems like it's not connecting or connecting correctly. Meanwhile I removed the struts so I can replace the bearings and hubs at work with a press. I already hammered out the hubs here, but for the bearings I haven't got a tool with a sufficient diameter.
On my way to mount the struts again, I found a scrappy bearing on the LHS top side. After removing it, I saw the outer ring was cracked. I hope a new one is still available... (KW v2)
Last Wednesday I went to Zolder with the Golf. A nice and hot day, but not with a very nice ending. First of all, I fixed the problem of the broken bearing by ordering bearings from... AliExxpress. They were the only one who delivered bearings with the same inner and outer diameter. The thickness was a bit more, 13 vs 11 mm. But that didn't hurt really, as the original bearings have a thickness of the inner side of 16 mm. Over this thicker parts, the metal cap of the suspension fits. So I had a colleague of mine to make a custom ring of 2,5 mm thick with inner hole 14 and outer diameter 24. Now I only had a difference of 0,5 mm between left and right. I kept the right side (no broken bearing) in order as I didn't want to fumble with the piston top. Both are already damaged quite a lot, which is a shame really, and meaning you can't get the top nuts on or of properly So onto the track. I booked from 11 to 1600h, where Zolder has a lunch break of 1 hour between 12 and 13. I miscalculated the traveltime to the track and came at only 20 mins before 11. I was alone, so before I got everything ready, car off the trailer, pressures set etc, almost half an hour was gone. Well too bad, can't help it now, let's go. I started out easy to warm up and feel the car. Alignment wasn't really proper, although I didn't adjust it theoretically when changing the wheelbearings. Steering also wasn't straight and the biggest issue was the brakes. I had power, yes. All day long. But when braking hard the rear started to come by. I turned the balancer back to the front, and it took while before the issue disappeared - not completely. Apperantly I had the rear on real hard at Spa last year. I *hope* this issue was caused by the tires. I mounted the 12 yo Toyo R888's with the purpose of finishing them once and for good. So in the second session, after the break, it was time to get on with it. At 13:00 I was heading to the pitlane and drove a total of 4 sessions in the afternoon. I even improved my best time on these old tires I stopped quite a few times as it was 30+°C. In the pitlane I had put a small crate containing my measurements, logbook, some water and a towel Then, less than half an hour to go, I was in the back of the track, coming off the chicane after the hill. I went up the small hill after that, then on top wanted to shift to 4th. Instead, unknowingly I put in 2nd and dumped the clutch as usual. Shiftlights all on at once and rpm gauge over the moon. The engine didn't quite like that and quit....... That was the end of it. I rolled out and got pulled off the track by a marshall. Bummer, this engine was built last year and had run less than 500 km Now I have to take the head off and see what the damage is.... I *hope* just a head revision will do and no pistons or lower block damage has occured And the Toyo's? Still going strong, I can't even see any wear compared to Tuesday
Oh man, sorry for you, the exact same happened me at a track day a couple of years ago. 8 bent valves. My engine didn't like over 9500 rpm..
Removed the head and... I really can't see anything. No damages to the pistons, no damages to the valves. No scratches, anything. Just the scorchmarks, which are normal. I guess it's just the valve stems which aren't straight anymore then? That's what you can't see right?
