daNpy - Golf MKII Group H

Thanks. It is exactly how I remembered when I did it before with a mate (who knew how & what), except on Saturday I kept the short drive shaft in (which was in the way) and yesterday I couldn't wiggle enough to free the diff flange from the flywheel.
Also, the 2Y box is longer due to the 5th gear as the 02A, which should make it easier in my case. On the other hands the 02A box is wayyyyy heavier.

In the end I know I'll get it out, that's not the biggest problem. The problem I have is the difficulty of slapping it back in. When I first mounted the gearbox earlier this year I had the same problem; I just could not get it in. And that was with the engine gearbox completely free (on the trolley), no subframe, car or anything in the way. I parted the engine and gearbox and tried again another day, then it did go in.
The time I spent now I could have just as well spent just dismounting everything (exhaust, steering knuckle, fuel, electrics) and lowering the subframe completely. I hoped this would be a faster way.

 

The gearbox mount is completely off already (wasn't easy, but off is easier than on. The long bolts are going to make it difficult to get them back on).

I thought it isn't possible to get the input shaft into the clutch (at least, at spline level) and then still wiggle the box around to get the flange over the flywheel?
I thought you always need to have the flange behind the flywheel, otherwise it will never be able to pass anymore. As far as I know the gearbox needs to be exactly straight to the engine otherwise the splines won't go in anyway (like I have now, even when it's in-line).

 

I have the feeling the building back will be done with the engine outside the car

 

Well, finally the gearbox is off. I more or less mounted it back to the engine and then lifted the car so we had access from underneath.
Removed the bolts and then it was wiggling and mainly pushing the diff up, which ofcourse is blocked by everything. We also had to remove a coolant hose in the front to make more room, the engine/gearbox support I removed this afternoon already.

I can't feel any play on the pressure bearing, but it is leaking grease a bit. I dismounted the clutch and I cannot see anything on that. No broken springs or broken plate.
I do see a lot of damage from the removal. I removed a lot of small steel chips off the flywheels pointy edges and the inside of the gearbox has a lot of spicks in it.
The flywheel clutching surface has some spots/marks, but none really burned if you ask me.

So..... I can order a new pressure bearing, no problem. But what if the next one also fails within 175 km? That's a bit fast right?

 

Maybe a small note, when mounting everything it was all cleaned but I did not add any grease to the splines, the surface the bearing runs on etc. It was all dry.

 

If you look at these fingers, something has been off. They are damaged.

 

Finally some pictures are put online:

 

Any more thoughts on the clutch woes?

 

Unfortunately not. Maybe it's a heat problem, the question is why.
I didn't feel it slip, I use it 'hard' - as it is meant to be. I have no other choice than build it back with the new throw-out bearing and see what is what.

 

Well, just put the gearbox in, and it went more easy than expected!
Put the box on the gearbox-lift, with the diff upwards. Pumped it into the car and then rotated the diff, increasing the height of the box until it was aligned with the engine. I read somewhere the alu support could be mounted and it would give a good grip on the box, but that arm hits the sidemembers so it had to be removed quickly. The flange of the diff magically went behind the flywheel without even trying, and when it was in the same height as the engine it just needed a few tries to shove in!
I did pull back the pin that operates the fork with the throw-out bearing. That way I didn't have to push against the pressure plate's fingers.

After fitting the bolts to the engine the front and rear support were to be mounted. Where I was fighting early this year to get the front cross member to the left to get it all in, this time the hole of the front support lined out to the right???? It did go with a bit of wiggling.
The rear support needed some encouragement from the crow bar to pop in. Now time to fit the essentials so I can try and hear if the issue is gone...

 

Some people asked if I had some axial play in the crankshaft. I tried it today and it has play, but the engine hasn't run in 2 weeks, so no oil pressure available.
How bad does it look?

https://youtube.com/shorts/gcadvIutrM4?feature=share

 

Oh that seems quite excessive....

 

Yeah. By the looks of it I am facing an engine revision. With less than 1000 km, a bit fast if you ask me. Or did I do something wrong with mounting the gearbox and other parts?

It will be a new set of crank bearings, oil seal with sensor (alu housing this time - if available), timing belt, water pump, oil pan gasket. Then also other parts are needed which are damaged and currently not known, i.e. work on the crankshaft or a replacement one.
For reasons I don't understand yet, the head also has to come off too to take out the pistons, which means new head bolts, head gasket and maybe some bearings left and right.
Then I'll probably don't have all of it and need somebody to do it - and preferably teach me so I can repair the KR engine too.

 

Pistons come up, not down, hence head off.

Did you replace the thrust washers on tbe crank?

 

Not sure of they were replaced, the engine was built for me. As far as I know they hold be (all bearings etc). I will be in touch with the builder this week.

 

The bearings should be replaced, there is no reason why they shouldn't. The engine is built in 2016, so the builder doesn't know by heart anymore.

I've measured the axial play, which is 0,65 mm. According to the builder it's OK, but technical documentation says 0,25 mm. That's quite some difference. Meanwhile I removed the gearbox and clutch assy with flywheel.

 

We found the axial bearings.