The mentioned pressures are when revving at 3000 rpm. In idle it's like 2 bar when cold and 1 bar when warm.
Isn't it simply the fact that the cooler is upside down? WHen I held the cooler with the connections up, they didn't leak... They are supposed to work like this, right?
Exactly. I was at a rallycross event last weekend. They used the fittings for fuel lines etc. It was mounted horrible, hoses exiting the connectors under large angles. No leakages obviously. I've just e-mailed Goodridge. I just have trust issues with this.
Well Goodridge is replying, quite fast as well. But they appear to don't understand the problem. All in all, I am thinking, are the connections really the problem? - I've had a cooler that burst open - I've had a hose jump out of the connector - everything replaced with A-brands - Parts that are leaking, are replaced. Still leaking. The oil pressure is measured in one of the hoses, but on the adapter plate side. What if I measure the pressure on the coolers side?
That's where the values are coming from now Edit; Or do you mean one of the two original holes for the two sensors in the bracket? Unfortunately, a oil pressure sender is too big to be fitted there.
Ah ok, if you're already measuring there, tge pressure won't be any higher elsewhere. I find it strange that 7 bar can do so much damage!
Funny thing is, the leakage is not present with cold oil. I reccon it's too thick too come out. Only at 70°C or higher it starts.
So I replaced the other fitting on the cooler for a Goodridge one yesterday. Took the car out for a drive today. Not too far, as I am driving without plates There was a small leakage on the replaced side as well. But the other side, fitted last week, is dry. So. Am I just too impatient and is it residue oil? I really don't get it. That would mean I am making a big fuss over nothing.... Still having not too much confidence though. The leakages were always small, so to drive is not really a huge problem. Ont he other hand, it is a charity day ,I don't want to spend it working on the car. I can take the whole shabam off and just go without cooler. November is supposed to be cold, right?
Looks like it's all good now! Took the car out for a spin, once again. This time I lend some plates so I didn't have to worry. Drove a road near my house, up and down. Checked the leakage every time, every time a wet finger appeared. After about 5 times I drove home (wondering why I didn't bring my tools in the first place) and took two wrenches to check the fitting that was still leaking. It was kind of easy to tighten them a bit more... After the tightening I drove back to the road, went to the far end and checked again. Dry! Drove back to return the plates, still dry! A very easy solution after all.... I also did have to block the oil cooler as the oil temp didn't go over 74°C
Setting up the car for next Saturday, I've just found that the wheel bearing front right is having play. I tightened the nut, but there is still a little play noticeable. They will have to be replaced as well. There's two variants, one with 66 mm and one with 72 mm diameter (inner diameter is also different), I don't know which one I have so I can't order ahead.
They don't really "tighten" unfortunately, not like the rear, unless the nut was quite loose. How's the oil and coolant temperature behaving?
Yeah the nut was quite loose, it's a Golf 4 self-tightening nut. I think it is due to be replaced anyway and with the play I feel now I will replaced both bearings too. It has to be re-aligned anyway after putting the hub back. Regarding the temperatures; I was driving up and down an 80-kmh-road, so as said I needed to block the oil cooler as the temperature didn't go over 74°C initially. In the end the oil was 90°C and the coolant around 92°C, acceptable values but it's not like I was driving full throttle on a circuit. Outside temperature was 12 °C if I remember correctly. I put a piece of carboard in front of the oil cooler for Saturday, when the oil gets hot I will remove it quickly
The larger bearing (and flange of course) hub, late 8v and 16v normally have a wheel speed sensor lug on them as I recall, the earlier ones don't. At least my late 8v ones on my MK2 have the speed sensor lug and are the larger bearing type.
Make sure you put the right torque on the front hub nut....its a fair amount. I've seen people just tighten them to where they think its tight, you need a bar on a long lever to get enough leverage on it. 230lbs/ft maybe....check though?
