Rear crank seal = gearbox out. Is the gearbox earth strap re-attached correctly? Was it a professional garage that did this, or a mate?
yerh mike we thought it might be a earth thats caused it.. i never messed around with the gearbox at all..where would it be exactly? erm its a family friend who does garage work
It's normally in one of two places - either the top middle of the gearbox, where the clutch cable stay bolts (if it's an 020 box) or one of the top bellhousing->engine bolts. Follow it from the battery and you'll soon find out if it's bolted up. Is the crank sensor plugged in and the wire undamaged as well?
ok tried that.. R.J tried to earth pin 6 via negative terminal on battery..no fuel pump prime.. mike earth strap was on lower stater bolt..wont make any difference but moved it to top bellhousing - engine bolt. if it helps, the mechanic said it started twice but died on both times but on third attempt nothing happened at all.
ok that would suggest further problems with the wiring, or the relay has packe in which does happen. for the ecu relay these are dirt cheap from vw so may as well just buy new, fuel pump id just pinch a few from scrappy. you can try swappign a #17/18 relay into the pump relay socket, this will make the fuel pump come on with the ignition. if it does you know the pump and wiring to it is ok, then if the car fires you know its a relay problem or engien loom issue. if it doesnt fire then either ecu isnt powering or its engine loom issue. one thing, make sure all the fusebox plugs are fully seated, and that the plug lock bar is clicked across. if you dont click the lock bar in the plugs can easily pull out
well what ive done .... ive tested two ECU relays - continuity between two poles while giving the other two live and earth (cant remember which way though) both relays showed continutiy..this would indicate they are ok? with the fuel pump relay..when the ignition is on..if i remove the plastic case of the fuel pump relay and physically press the relay it allows the pump to prime. again would this mean its in tact? aslo the coolant and oil lights work on the cluster so those parts of the loom seem to be ok. as mentioned before i got a shock from the coil pack so its getting power. ive just got another ECU just incase that is the problem.. is there anything i can do to prevent it from shorting and then blowing without taking the loom apart?
for the sake of 10, id just have a new relay. can always keep the others as a spare in your gubbins box, i have a spare known good pump relay as well as i say, put a 17/18 relay in the pump socket while you're testing, this will isolate any issues with pump power. once you get it going, fit a 67/80/167 relay and check it still runs. if not you can start diagnosing that side seperately. if you get a shock from the coil something is not right, either the coil or king lead is dead so sort that out before you buy another ecu
Right got ya!! thanks RJ...i wanted to clarify if testing one that seems good could still be dodgey but yes for the sake of a tenna doesnt seem worth taking short cuts. ill have a look then...ive got a new ecu ordered it was going cheap but i wont stick it on until ive sorted the other problems out.
165 906 381 - ecu relay - 13.33+VAT kracker sposed to be oem quality: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK3-GTI-2-0L-8V-16V-ECU-RELAY-165906381-C142-/221131008214
Thanks dude..ill get one of these ordered and see how it goes with respect to the king lead or coil lead is it possible its just arching as one or twice when it was running you could see sparks jumping... just order a new set that should stop the arching/electric shocks ?
right stuck the 18 relay in and it primes on ignition with and without the ecu... so we know the fuel pump is good and the wires are ok....battery is abit crap but will try and start it inabit.. if it fails to start does that lead to the ecu or could there be other wires i need to check?
all this test will rule out is fuel pump and relay trigger wiring really, as we are bypassing the ecu control to just have pump on all the time. if the engine still wont go this points to a wiring issue, sensor fault (id look at crank sensor!) or a blown ecu.
ok so - Fuel pump and wiring are ok - via testing using 17/18 relay. ..so.. if i put a new relay in for the ecu and fuel pump and the fuel pump does not prime then... that would lead to a bad ecu or the loom is knackered somewhere..? (Also to mention..i checked all the fuses at the garage where it happend and the fuel pump fuse was blown..) so if i get these ecu and fuel pump relay..check to see if it works..i can then look at ecu and loom if it doesnt? and by checking the loom, im checking for continutinty for all the power wires and signle wires? Are there any live wires for the senors that come off the ecu? that i can check for voltage?
yeah use a multimeter to check continuity from the ecu pin to where it runs to, i use a metal paperclip poked into each pin when i do this as my multimeter pin is too big to fit nice. most of the sensors have a 5v feed pin so thats another thing to look at check my sign for the abf wiring diagram
This happened to me I got no prime on the key. Have you installed a lambda sensor I'm the exhaust this sorted mine
