Mk1 golf DTA ECU wiring

Discussion in 'Throttle bodies & non-OEM ECUs' started by daniboy1_2_3, Jan 16, 2015.

  1. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    A picture would help a lot thanks. I can then use it to see what I can find that will do the same job. I don't suppose off the top of your head you know the stud size on the mk1 chassis for the engine earth do you?
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    its a bolt into the inner wing, cant remember if its a normal machine screw or a self-tapper? cant find it on ETKA either!
     
  3. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Ah right no worries my car is up at the bodyshop so can't check. I'll pop around my mates and have a butchers then :).
     
  4. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Rubjohnny do you mean you have exactly the same battery fusebox on your mk2 as me then? Be interesting to see a pic of how it all goes together. A mate was saying it's best to keep the gearbox/engine to chassis/battery chunky earth cable as short as possible. I can't see why this would matter at all unless I'm missing something? It's going to be quite long by the time I've finished but probably not much longer than the mk3 to be fair.
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yes I have the early one on mine, if you use the mk4 live -> starter cable its a direct fit :)

    as long as the earth is nice and chunky its fine, the late mk2 and MK3 one is pretty long as standard as it runs all the way to the side of the engine rather than the upper box bracket. Seen a fair few guys have a boot mounted battery with the earth all the way to the front of the car, no problems. I've also seen several who tried to earth battery to chassis in the boot then earth engine to chassis in the engine bay who had problems, fixed by running the battery earth from the boot direct to the engine bay :lol:
     
  6. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Cheers again! Would it be possible to get a few photos of it please? I'll see if the live cable is available from VW still.
    On another note is there any reason why I can't install my ECU inlet air temp sensor in the piping from the intercooler outlet close to the throttle body as opposed to having to strip and modify my inlet manifold?.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2015
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    here you go, early one:
    [​IMG]

    late:
    [​IMG]

    looking at the late oen the red cable may have a ring terminal at the box end if so you can split one down to remove this then slot it under the end stud in your early box if you need to :)
     
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I dont see why moving the inlet temp to where you describe would be a problem, on the mk3 engines its fitted in the airbox pretty far from the throttle body. I suppose there may be some advantage to having inlet temp as close to the cylinders as possible, hopefully someone more knowledgeable can comment on that one
     
  9. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    It's a 16vg60 engine so supercharged as well so the temps will change a fair bit from the inlet but hopefully not so much from the intercooler outlet pipe just before the throttle body?
     
  10. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Well I made quite a meal out of it but got there in the end, thanks for the help as always Johnny :)

    [​IMG]

    I didn't need to take much material out of the busbar to get it onto the stud thankfully.
    What are those fuses called that go in there and where can I get them from?.
    Plan is to use a ring terminal crimped and soldered onto the starter lead at the battery end then the same at the starter itself. I'll probably end up getting these big cables done by a professional as I'm not sure I could get a good result in the vice.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2015
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Good question! if you find out I would be interested to know :lol:

    For mine I just stripped down a coupel boxes and kept all the fixings and fuses. Scrappies will be a good source :thumbup:
     
  12. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    That will be fine, it's where mine is.
     
  13. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Thanks sparrow :) saves me having to strip out my inlet manifold to drill it. I'm going to ask my local vw parts guy what those fuses are and if he can get hold of them. Unfortunately we don't have many scrappies left round here :(
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    dealer shouldnt be a problem, no doubt they'll have boxes of em on the shelf. I'd assume its industry standard type of fuse also, worth lookin around local factors. a decent vw parts place should have stock such as gsf
     
  15. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Managed a little more progress. Got the cable for starter, alternator and earth and used my crimping to for some heavy duty crimps. Don't look very tidy but they seem well crimped;

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    I was going to attempt to solder them as well but I doubt my puny little iron would manage.
    Here's the engine that all this work is for. It's pretty much built now after a lot of work. Just need a car to put it in! Still in the bodyshop buy hopefully early new year will see it painted.
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    bit o adhesive lined heatshrink would neaten it up a bit, plus help stop any moisture getting into the copper :)
     
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  17. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Cheers was going to add some heatshrink, I left it off just in case I decided to try to solder the joint as well but don't really think it's needed.
    I've ordered a coolant temperature gauge which I'm hoping to fit where the ashtray once was in the dashboard along with two other gauges. I've also ordered the audi 80 VDO gauge holder with facia plate and I'm hoping this will fit here without too much modification.
    I've been searching for a duel coolant temp sender unit so as I can supply the standard dash gauge along with my aftermarket gauge. Then I remembered fitting a blank in the head so I'm hoping this will have the same thread as the standard temp sender m10 X 1 as that's what my aftermarket gauge is supplied with.
     
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    could use a bit of insulating tape instead, but it looks like the terminals are about the same width as the cable anyway so you should be able to slot some heatshrink over if you wanted?

    the 3 smaller holes in the 16v head are all m10x1 so thats fine, alternatively if you get a mk2/3 16v side flange for aircon models these have an extra sensor hole which will take a later mk2 8v 2 pin black dash temp sensor if thats easier for you. the bigger hole to the bottom right is M14x1.5 thread if thats any use to you
     
  19. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    I ordered my gauge which comes with a m10 X 1 sender so ill just whip the plug out and pop that one in there. My ECU temp sender is in the m10 slot but that's all I need now :). Just hoping I don't have to chop my dash up to get the audi 80 bracket to fit in where the ashtray once was.
    Currently messing around with making a bracket to mount the ECU in the scuttle area then a big push in the new year to get some paint on the shell so I can actually start putting things back together.
     
  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    coolio. do you mean the audi gauge holder? if the one you have doesnt fit you can get ones specially made for fitment where the ashtray is in the MK2 console, IIRC the mk1 ashtray is the same dimensions so it may also work? but its just a flat plate with 3 holes cut in it so its not anythign special and doesnt tilt the gauges towards you if that was what you wanted the audi panel for
     

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