Mk1 golf DTA ECU wiring

the mk2 one comes with 2 plates, which sandwich either side of the console then are secured by the standard VDO gauge U-brackets. you could of course glue the panel to the console, or what I did was make my own bracket that clamp either side of the console from behind to hold it all together. This way I was able to sell the other gauge panel which made the cost bearable as they aint cheap

AwesomeGTI used to sell em back in the day, not sure where they can be foudn now. I've got it in my head it was made by 'new south' but I might be wrong on that one...

I'd try and use what you have though!

 

the facia I mention is designed to fit a mk2 centre console once you have chopped out the ashtray, the size looks similar but they are a bit of an expensive gamble if they dont fit

as I say its only a flat plate with 3 holes drilled in so it'll be easy enough to make your own, chop the middle out of the mk1 tray just leaving the side fixings, find summat suitably flat then drill 3 holes in it and bond to the mk1 ashtray shell

on the ignition switch look for pin 'SU' this is live as soon as you insert the key and is the factory pin VW used for stereo accessory live on those with an electric roof or seatbelt/lights on warning systems plus very late runout MK2s

 

thats the only bolt on option I know of, unless you go to mk2 bearing carriers but you'll need spacers for the steering arms to pull the geometry back to where it should be. Does make big brake upgrades much cheaper though

 

not particularly as you'll have to sp[lice wiring either way. though if you got yourself a scirocco mk2 dash loom the ce1 mk2 clocks will plug straight in

 

in either case you would have to modify the mk1 clock brackets to accept the mk2 clocks, its obvious when you offer it up. then you have to find a mk2 dash/clock loom matched to the set you have and cut the plugs off, then solder them to the old MK1 loom. The only real difference wiring wise apart from the plugs themselves is that the CE2 clocks have 2 earths rather than 1, and the level sensor is wired straight to the clocks rather than thru the 42/43 relay as in the CE1 cluster. Oh and the MFA stalk plug hangs right off the CE1 clock plug, so if you wanted the MFA that side of things is a bit easier. Just note you need late cabrio or early mk2 stalk with the 1/2 switch on if you want it to plug straight in. The later CE1 mk2 stalks will fit as well, but note they sit closer to the steering wheel

for the CE2 clocks you can use my fusebox faq:
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775

MK2 CE1 clock pinout:
T7 - white plug, short side:
1 - blu/wht - A/28 (main beam warning light)
2 - wht/red - spade plug (outside temp)
3 - wht - mfa stalk pin 4 (mode select)
4 - wht/brn - spade plug (outside temp)
5 - pur/blk - B/3 (fuel level)
6 - gry/blu - light switch 58b (dash illumination)
7 - blu/red - A/17 (indicator warning light)

T7a - black plug, long side:
2 - blk/wht - mfa stalk pin 2 (memory select)
3 - blu/grn - B/6 (glow plug)
4 - yel - B/15 (high oil pressure switch)
5 - blu - A/16 (battery warning light)

T7b - white plug, long side:
1 - wht/grn - ? (upshift solenoid valve)
2 - blk/grn - spade plug (oil temp)
3 - red - B/12 (permanent live)
4 - red/blk - B/19 (rev counter)
5 - brn - to earth claw, or head (earth)
6 - yel/red - B/7 (coolant temp)
7 - blu/yel - A/3 (upshift light)

T7c - black plug, short side:
1 - red/wht - mfa stalk pin 3 (memory reset)
2 - wht/yel - spade plug (speed sensor output)
\ - blu/wht - T2b/B (ECU, US models only)
4 - blu/blk - A/4 (low oil pressure switch)
7 - blk - ignition switch pin 15 (ignition live)

MK1 clock pinout:
T14 - CE1
1 - blu/gry - Light switch pin 58b (dash lighting)
2 - brn - Earth
3 - pur/blk - Fusebox pin B/3 (fuel level sender)
4 - blu/yel - Fusebox pin B/7 (coolant temp sensor)
5 - red/blk - Fusebox pin B/19 (rev counter)
6 - red - Fusebox pin B/12 (permanent live)
7 - blu/wht - Fusebox pin A/28 (high beam warning)
8 - red/wht - MFA switch mode button
9 - blu/blk - Fusebox pin A/4 (high oil pressure warning switch)
10- brn/red - Fusebox pin B/6? (glow plug?)
11- yel - Spade to engine loom behind fusebox on early, Fusebox pin B/15 late (low oil pressure warning warning switch)
12- blu - Fusebox pin A/16 (alternator warning light)
13- blu/red - Fusebox pin A/17 (indicator warning lamp)
14- blk - Ignition switch pin 15 (ignition live feed)

T6
1 - wht/blu - outside air temp sensor
2 - wht/red - outside air temp sensor
3 - grn/blk - Fusebox pin B/15 on early models, spade to engine loom behind fusebox on late models (oil temp sensor)
4 - blk/yel - Fusebox pin A/3 (Gearshift control relay pin 3/L)
5 - wht/grn - Fusebox pin B/18 (Gearshift control relay pin 5/G)
6 - wht/yel - VSS output

T2b (only on late cabrio cluster)
blk/wht - MFA switch memory button
red/wht - MFA switch reset button

also this picture covers ce1 -> mk1 wiring nicely:
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/images/golf/mk2_dials_to_mk1.jpg

 

you can use the original gti stalks no problem, it just means you cant switch between mode 1 & 2 if you end up with later mk2 cluster set. if you can find a really early set then they come with the 1/2 button on the front of the clocks same as the mk1 GTI cluster do. the alternative is hide a wee rocker switch somewhere to switch between 1 and 2

as for your other point cant help there with the DTA ECU, sparrow should be able to give some input though

edit: oh and in case you didnt know the mk2 scirocco uses the same cluster as the pre-90 mk2 golf