Mk1 golf DTA ECU wiring

It's a ford gen 2 coilpack I have if that makes a difference?

 

Sorry, I misread a post above, and though you were 1.8t for some reason.

As you say, you can just use the diode method. You can also use the tacho converter. The choice is yours.

 

Ok thanks I wasn't sure if both methods provide the same degree of accuracy or if one was better than the other.

 

I'm going to get hold of the diodes to allow me to use my mk1 clocks with the tacho output on my ecu. Just looking back through at Eddie's diagram I see there are 2 different diodes; IN4001, 1N4001 is this right or is it just one type?

 

Looks like both are meant to be 1N4001 I'll get down to maplin and pick a couple up.

 

or 1N4002, or 4003 or 4004. The 2,3 and 4's will withstand a higher PIV (peak inverse voltage) Do the same job though
Jon

 

Thanks john got a couple from maplins for the princely sum of 18p for 2 of them. I've just been playing around setting up the crank trigger wheel. I've set the gap somewhere around 60 degrees before tdc. I've looked on the flywheel and all the marks that were put on it when it was in the engine builders are after tdc which I'm assuming are pointless. Does this mean I'll have to take the flywheel off to have it stamped up properly?. There are two Marks that I can see btdc which look to be around 5 and 10 degrees.

 

That's a good idea didn't think of that saves taking the gearbox off again and I don't see why not.

 

I managed to get the marks in the pully which should help. I'm now looking into where I might be able to get the car set up on a rolling road. I'm in the north east near Middlesbrough if anyone can recommend somewhere. Basically i have a freshly built engine that needs running in and also needs mapping. I have a generic map from DTA which I'm hopeful will be enough to start the car. I'm just unsure how much I can do before I need to get it properly set up. I'd like to do as much as I can before handing it over but I don't want to effect the bedding in process adversely. What would people recommend I do in this situation?

 

Mapping will help running in.

Just ensure fuel control is 14 to 12:1 AFR and once you do not logg the engine or redline it you should be fine if the base ignition table is set sensible.

 

I have an innovate lc-1 lambda kit. I was hoping to be able to get the car running myself and run it in before taking it to be mapped. I can keep an eye on my lambda values whilst doing this and take precautions not to run it too hard, a few hills, plenty of overrun. Once ran in take it along to be mapped properly. Does this sound feasible?
What should I be mindful of whilst doing this? As mentioned don't run it too hard but not take it too easy either. I'd heard running too rich can lead to fuel thinning the oil with disastrous consequences?.

 

Dyno mapping, allows safe WOT tuning.
Road tuning tends to take care of everywhere else including cold starting and driving away.
LC-1 system (not my preferred choice of standalone lambda controller) will allow targeted setpoint of fuel control. You still need to know what setpoint is best for engine operating point.
Spark timing is even more critical to achieving the required drive torque.

 

Hi thanks for the reply. If I can just clarify what I'm hoping to achieve. Basically i don't know enough to map the car myself on the road nor am I tempted to try without learning an awful lot more. I'm curious to know how much I can do without effecting the bedding in process. For instance is it wise to attempt to get the car running and starting from cold on just a generic map given that my only indication of how the car is running is my innovate lambda sensor?. If so then can I also safely carry out the running in procedure having only my innovate gauge along with oi andl coolant temps as my only means of assessing how the engine is responding?. I'd really like to at least get the car to a point where it will start from cold, idle and have it ran in. However I don't want to jeapodise the bedding in process of any if this makes sense.

 

" Spark timing is even more critical to achieving the required drive torque. "

Not my experience of my extremely limited mapping of standalone systems. I was thoroughly underwhelmed by a plus 3 degrees and minus 3 degrees swing test when I played with a Lumenition system years ago.

Are the VW 8V and 16V engines particularly fussy about sparks? Or is it all in the part throttle range? Mine being race rally based doesn't spend a lot of time there, although I did try to optimize every nominal 20% throttle, acknowledging the obvious non linearity on flow the butterfly has.

If this is off thread, sorry
Jon

 

Would it be foolish to attempt to undertake some road mapping myself? What resources should I study before attempting such a thing? Has anyone with a basic knowledge of such things managed to learn enough to successfully complete this task?

 

My recommendation is just get it to the tuner and follow his instructions.

Maybe just maybe, my comments come from extensive experience from both and OEM and aftermarket calibration work and were not just some trivial statement that you can google from the internet!

 

Toyo, aha!!
Thought you would enjoy a bit of alternate opinion to keep you on your toes. !!!
I was being deliberately provocative as this forum is losing a bit of its technical edge IMHO.

Maybe what I said is from experience, as reading it again I stand by what I said.
I was hoping for some of your experience to be shared.

Was at the 'rollers' last week on my 'old school' stuff, and ignition timing swings again made little difference.

I would love to understand more on this complex issue, maybe not from a theoretical stand, but from improvements made by actual testing
Jon

 

If users are choosing to resort to other forums of media and do not have the time to contribute on here technically, than that is not my problem. We the staff who have to interact with all sides certainly do our utmost to encourage discussion here. You users are the ones to generate that technical edge.

I appreciate you do not understand my comment. It was not an opinion. You do race cars yes and have experience building the engine, gearbox and suspension, but I am not aware you fully grasp the control of the engine control unit to create torque in a petrol or diesel engine.
Ponder on this, for a SI engine, lambda efficiency is less critical to torque compared to ignition efficiency.

However for the OP who is running a familiar ECU to me, I have given my suggestion and that is to take the car to the tuner who will understand what needs to be done without the risk of the OP damaging his engine if he is not sure what to do.
That to me is a a responsible suggestion.