Mk1 golf DTA ECU wiring

Superb thanks for that!. I'm not sure how available these clocks are now but they seem to crop up on eBay from time to time. I'll give sparrow a shout ??. I think the mfa will be redundant anyway as I've gotten rid of almost everything related to it such outside air temperature, oil temp, vac line etc.

 

Was this on an older VW like yours?
I looked after countless VWs for quite a while, also with SEMs and never had such a problem with ECU supply voltages.

 

It was on a noble m12 so nothing like my set up but it did make me wonder what might happen if my voltage regulator stopped working. Thinking about it, the battery box rubjohnny recommended has the alternator output coming back to the battery via a fuse, maybe that would be enough to prevent any damage in the event of a failure.

 

I've been looking into getting my 16vg60 mapped once I've got it running and I think I've found someone who I'd like to take it to. I'd like to get it running as well as I can before taking it there in order to keep costs down and for a little sense of personal achievement seeing as though I've built the engine myself. How realistic would it be for me to get the car running reasonably well, start from cold etc so that there is less time needed to be spent on a rolling road or would I be running the risk of causing damage should I get it wrong?.

 

It's fairly easy to get it running. Cold start is quite tricky, but as long as you're happy to keep it running on the pedal while it warms up, you should be fine.
This also allows you to check for leaks, which is where costs ramp up, and mappers get unhappy.

I can send you a map that should start the engine quite easily. The only value you may have to tweak is the crank sensor angle, but that's easy enough.
I haven't read back through the thread, so I can't remember what block is this?

 

Hi sparrow thanks for the reply. This is the basic spec;

9A block, 8.5:1 low compression JE pistons
KR head, ported and polished etc with KR cams.
Stage 4 charger, 68mm pully.
Botch 440cc green tops.
Converted to run a ford coilpack.

I'm more than happy to get the car running and sort out any issues there might be in fact I'm looking forwards to it after all this hard work. Like you say getting it running will be a bit of messing about with crank sensor position etc and once it running I'll deal with any issues. Once the car will start and I've sorted leaks etc what is involved with setting the cold running up? Obviously that's going to take a while what with only having a few goes before its warm. I take it its a case of adding more fuel and then slowly reducing that extra % until warm?.

 

Pretty much identical to my 16v turbo spec, so I'll send you a copy of my map.

Where's the crank trigger mounted? If you can send me a picture of it with cylinder 1 at TDC, I should be able to send you a map that will start.

 

Thanks mate. I've modified the power steering bracket to accommodate the crank sensor bracket if you can imagine that so it's pointing around 7 o clock. I have pictures on my phone that I could email you if you could put them up here or just take a look?

 

Yup, no problem. I'll need a picture of the trigger disc at cylinder 1 TDC.
Email is office@dtafast.co.uk. I'm on holiday this week, so will pick it up next week.

 

I'm offshore until mid November so will get a picture once I'm back and have set it up and send it over, cheers.

 

Once I've uploaded a generic map to get the engine up and running I'd like to have a go at getting the car running well from cold, cruise well and tweak things to improve driveability, ultimately to save having to hand it over to a professional for 2 to 3 days which is what I was told I'd need to do to get it spot on. I can't afford to pay for that amount of work and want to get it down to around 1 day spent on the rolling road.
What would be the best way of achieving this? I've read through the DTA manual, joined the DTA forum and have been reading through various articles relating to tuning. Can anyone recommend any other good resources to help me gain enough knowledge to safely progress the map?. Firstly is it a special lead I need to connect the ecu to a pc? I can't remember if one came with the ecu when I bought it its been that long.

 

45 quid on ebay for the 'genuine' lead. (goody pack of all sorts USB to serial etc)
Dave Walker has published a good book on mapping.
I have an 18T on DTA that I will be fiddling with shortly, so I'm following your progress
Jon

 

Yes I'll be picking up a copy of dave walkers book soon. I know what is achievable is pretty limited due to my lack of equipment and experience but hopefully I can make some headway, even if I can sort out a good idle, starting from cold and cruising. How far on with yours are you Jon, is that the car you take out on the track?

 

Quick question, I was reading that there is a signal converter which allows the use of the DTA ECU tacho output signal to drive the stock Mk2 Scirocco/ Golf tachometer . Does anyone know if this would work with mk1 golf clocks?

 

Think toyo published a pic of two 1n4001 diodes adding the pulses from a ford coil pack on here to make the mk1 rev counter read.
Mine: Its an Ibiza on TB's for tarmac rallying, on the button, nearly complete (aren't they always......) Mine is the old E48EXP ECU
Jon

 

1.8t is coil on plug, so a converter will be required

 

Ok I'm a little confused over what exactly I need to do here. I did reread the thread and looked at adding the 2 diodes will this work with my mk1 tacho?

 

It's not the tacho end that's the problem, it's the coil end. I can't guarantee the diode conversion will work with coil on plug.
The tacho converter will work, so do that for simplicity.