Mk1 golf DTA ECU wiring

I'll have a look im sure i got one o them live block somewhere, i bet its cheap!

i have 2 crimping tools a small one for the ce1 pins and a larger one for most others. i could do with one between the big and small one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crimping-Tool-Molex-0-1-and-0-156-Terminals-HT-225D-/170752067857

the larger one i got from america (mate of mine had contacts) but any decent criming tool for non insulated terminals should do you fine, plenty to choose from on ebay or polevolt.co.uk, http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk etc

this one looks pretty much same as mine:
http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/non-insulated-terminal-ratchet-crimping-tool-heavy-duty.html

edit: I'm talking about 2 seperate things in my post on the 1 hand theres the battery mounted fuse block you find on mk4 and newer VAG which takes studded cables, plus a simple jumper block which goes inside the car with studs inside, no fuses.

 

so a battery fusebox here, handy as it means all your lives are fused right at battery:


and/or inside the car you could use somethign like this (not the exact polo one I mention above but you get the idea!)


basically if you have a mega live cable you could run it to a junction box like 2nd pic above, then from there run cables to the fusebox live, various relays etc. or you could go with mk4 type fuseblock and run all the fusebox and relay lives to that. or a combo of both, whatever

the mk4 battery box also takes the alternator cable too, so that one is also fused. this will mean if it gets damaged in a crash say, the fuse will blow rather than a possible electrical fire.

on the other hand, the mk4 boxes can suffer from corrosion damage so if you go 2nd hand be sure to check it over. they are easily stripped right down for cleaning and repair too

 

cool, the main reason I had my eye on one o them polo junction boxes is it would mean i could use a std mk4/5 cable without having to re-terminate the fusebox end since it has ring terminals on both ends, rather than a spade like wot i needs for fusebox. then from there I can run a wire to fusebox live input and any other meaty items

as long as the main live into the fusebox is good you can use the P spades and it'll be reet! many options going forward

 

to use the spade on e/14 you would need the factory fuel pump relay fitted, if you're putting it above the fusebox then obv this pin will not be live anymore.

are you running 2 lambdas then? as the LC-1/2 heater is fed from the control unit direct by the looks of it so no need to worry about the heater wire there.

are you sure its 2x 87 you have? and not 87 and 87a?

 

looking at it this one needs a ign live feed, a relay is suggested if you arnt sure about the circuits in your fusebox. I'm not sure if a relay would be needed or not?

basically the ignition live feed to the fusebox is fed from the black wire on the ignition switch, and all the ignition live feeds inside the fusebox comes off this same wire including the coil live. obviously they are on separate rails inside the fusebox, but the source is that single black wire from the ignition switch. So its a case of is the wideband controller sensitive enough that it wont like the ignition live coming off a separate rail fed from the same source that the coil rail is fed from if that makes sense?

 

cool, you can use both 87 outputs if you like, or just the 1 its up to you. obv the output cant exceed the rating of either the relay, wire or fuse, whatever is lowest

 

yeah you can use the original black coil wire to D/23 to power the new coilpack, its just a normal ignition live feed

for injectors you could use the ecu relay or the fuel relay power output, both have been used on various CE1 EFI wiring looms. CE2 mostly use the fuel relay, with the exception of some VR6 which use the ecu relay again. so its up to you. options, options and yet more options

 

If you're going to replace the main battery live then i would just use the P terminals on the fusebox, it'll be fine and save you a bit of wire. After all, its ok on the fully loaded MK3 which have a load more electrical loads on the fusebox than what you have

The stock battery cable on the mk1/2/3 is 6mm, which is rated for 50amps looking about. Confirmed by the MK4 wiring diagram I have here which shows a 6mm cable protected by a 50a fuse. That jumper block looks like a nice solution as you can use it to power the fusebox and all your relays with all your individual fuses inside for neatness

The mk4 also has a monster 16mm cable which is protected by a 110a fuse, but i dont think you need to go that far

 

cool if you want an uber amp later on then it would be worth beefing up your main live feed into your junction block for sure