Mk1 golf DTA ECU wiring

I'm in the north east near Middlesbrough just trying to get my head round the best way to do all of this :/

 

ah,thats right,why not just get Andyout to make you a plug and play loom he has a unit at Croft be alot less hassel.

 

Thanks for the pointer, I may well have to yet but I was hoping to be able to at least give it a good go myself. I felt like I was getting somewhere but I can't see what's going on with this D13 connection just yet.
I was planning on running a separate relay for the ECU as has been mentioned earlier and then utilise the factory fuel pump socket albeit with new power and ground connections, the parts that will have most likely degraded the most due to location etc.
I'm just taking on board advice and hoping to soak up the knowledge along the way. I think I'd get a kick out of getting it together myself, I've come quite a way with it so far.

 

Believe that suggestion was covered in post 29 Nothing wrong with what rubjonny was suggesting, if you are fully confident in vehicle electrics and understand the VW wiring diagrams.
I have found OE electrics are quite robust, to NVH over a long time, than a system made with crimps!

Alternatively if the whole thing is a bit overwhelming for the OP, then yes get it to a pro for less hassle.

 

I'd quite like to see this through now rather than have a pro wire it up for me but I appreciate all the input, that's what it's all about.
A thought occurred to me whilst slowly rocking myself to sleep. The other relays mentioned for fitment in place of original pump relay must have an extra pin linked to d13 which I didn't check. I only checked the 4 pins used by standard relay. Please tell me I'm right

 

Summarised from Bentley, Chiltons and Haynes manuals

Your F/P relay on the CE1 fusebox will have the following pins.
Pin 1 - KL31 Ground
Pin 2 - KL30 Battery live
Pin 3 - KL87 Switched live with S5 fuse to Fuel Pump motor and non fused output to N
Pin 4 - KL15 Keyed ignition ( Terminal 15)
Pin 5 - 1 ( -ve coil pulse for rpm sense relays on 8v KJet engines)
Pin 6 - To D13 - ECU trigger.
Pin 7 and 8 not used.

On a 4 pin 'Digifant' relay found on a later car like a Golf 2 or MK3

Pin 2 - KL15 Keyed ignition
Pin 3 - KL85 From ECU trigger ( in your case D13)
Pin 4 - KL87 Switched live
Pin 6 - KL30 Battery live

 

Thanks for reiterating! I think I've just gotten a little bogged down with all this information. The relays mentioned earlier 67/80/167 have a connection to pin 6 which will go to D13 had I have checked this with my multimeter, I get it now!
Do they have specific part numbers?

 

I have for my former 8v Cabrio (CE1) and JENVEE MS'd 16v (CE2) outside. I can have a look and report back

Actual validation from vehicles 22 Jan.

OK on the Cabrio, which was an 8v KJet the F/P relay is #2
It has 5 pins as:

30 - Slot 2 Batt live
31 - Slot 1 Gnd
15 - Slot 4 Key on ignition KL15
87 - Slot 3 Switched live
31b - Slot 5 Ignition sensor from coil -ve

On JENVEE, which is a Megasquirted 16v car on a later Central Electric fusebox 2, the relay is a very late # 428 taken a model year 2000 vehicle.

It has 4 pins as:

30 - Slot 2 - Batt live
87 - Slot 3 - Switched live
86 - Slot 4 - Key on ignition KL15
85 - Slot 6 - ECU trigger ( JENVEE CE2 G1/3, MK1 Cabrio KJet CE1 D13)

Both fusebox footprints have 8 inputs.

Summary of both in the illustration.

 

Excellent thanks a lot.

 

Thanks to you for asking the question and the others who also gave an input

In post 29, an illustration was drawn up to demonstrate the key points for connecting any SEM.
A question arose on some of the relay numbers.

In JENVEE the original ECU relay fitted is '30'. I know this as it was checked last night.
The fuel pump relay fitted is '428'. I believe this is not the original MK2 part as it is dated 11/00. The car was recieved with this part and never really changed it during the 16v/megasquirt conversion. So one to add to the typical 67/80/167 F/P relays.
I did a search last night and found a thread by vento mike which has a list of >>>VW fuse box relay numbers<<< he and others have seen and will also add it here.
Perhaps one to make into a table

 

I have a fully populated corrado G60 fuse box kicking around somewhere so hopefully the relay in that will match the description of what I need. If not then I'll see if I can get hold of one from the dealers.
Next on the list is to rewire the fuel pump feed and earth once I've sussed out exactly what size and type pin to order for the fuse box connector E14.
My fuel pump relay fuss s5 is worryingly loose in its socket not sure if it's possible to rectify this. Maybe another reason to invest in a new fuse box.

 

I would suggest replacing the fuse box if your fuse holders are in that state.
It is very frustrating to have a critical fuse shake itself loose on a track or on road during a maneuver. This sort of points back to the point Jon Olds was raising.

 

Yes its the s5 fuse itself, it's quite loose in its slot. All the others are nice and tight and it doesn't look like there is anyway of re tensioning the slots it sits in.
There is a little discolouration also in an isolated spot of what looks like corrosion and that's just what I can see.
I think it's probably going to be best to replace it isn't it. Doesn't look like genuine CE1 fuse boxes are available now just repro from VW heritage.
Fuel pump wise I'm waiting to hear back from think auto who I spoke to earlier in the week. I asked him to put together an order and he was going to look into what pump would be suitable to supply around 150 litres of fuel per hour at 3 bar which I believe will be more than enough to fuel my 16vg60 engine.
I'd use the original pump but it's seen better days and doesn't look like they are available either from new so im going for something new. Suggestions very welcome . I'm running the cabrio sender setup with lift pump which will supply a swirl pot then the main pump will draw from there.

 

As for the wiring to the other circuits ill need, it's going to be supply to the lambda sensor and earth for it along with the cabling for wiring the ECU relay. The wiring supplied with the ECU for power and ground is 18AWG from memory whereas all.other wiring including feeds to injectors and coil was 22AWG but I won't be wiring it up as per the DTA diagram using these wires as it shows ECU, coil pack and injectors all spliced into same 12 V supply via the ECU relay.

 

For maximum reliability I would replace the fuse box or at least run a separate fuel pump relay and engine control relay as originally suggested by Jon Olds. We already know where the wires are on the original loom and so not really a hard one if you do not want the hassle of wiring the whole car.
The K-Jet pump is fine on a 16vG60 with say 280bhp but, for piece of mind get something new. The lift pump would also be fine.
As a part time dyno operator, it has been a sometimes horrible experience, when a vehicle comes in and gives up on components and you try to be nice to start troubleshooting to get the thing mapped.

 

I think it would be best looking at it to wire in new relays for the ECU and fuel pump. Just to be on the safe side.
Dedicated supplies from the battery, good grounds back to the battery maybe, use the switched ECU earth trigger and an ignition live for the fuel pump relay and either use the existing wiring to feed the fuel pump or run a new power feed to the pump.
As far as the lambda power goes again I think to be on the safe side ill use a dedicated relay. So quite a bit of wiring to do now then!.