Mk1 golf DTA ECU wiring

Discussion in 'Throttle bodies & non-OEM ECUs' started by daniboy1_2_3, Jan 16, 2015.

  1. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Thanks once again for the advice, I had no idea any of the k jet relays had a built in rev limiter.
    I think I'll find a separate socket and wire a seperate relay in for the ecu. Am I right in thinking all the P terminals are direct feeds from the battery then? It's been that long since I took it all apart I can't remember how the battery is physically connected to the fuse box.
    As for the fuel pump there is a trigger wire from the DTA ecu to activate the fuel pump relay so that's not a problem. I'm tempted to run new wires in for this also for peace of mind.
    I take it there is something about the 3 relays you have mentioned that work without the coil feed?
     
  2. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Thanks once again for the advice, I had no idea any of the k jet relays had a built in rev limiter.
    I think I'll find a separate socket and wire a seperate relay in for the ecu. Am I right in thinking all the P terminals are direct feeds from the battery then? It's been that long since I took it all apart I can't remember how the battery is physically connected to the fuse box.
    As for the fuel pump there is a trigger wire from the DTA ecu to activate the fuel pump relay so that's not a problem. I'm tempted to run new wires in for this also for peace of mind.
    I take it there is something about the 3 relays you have mentioned that work without the coil feed?
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Yeah your battery live comes in with the lightiong loom and pops to one of the 2 large P terminals, the other goes to the ignition switch. the other smaller spades on P are all connected directly to the large P spades inside so as long as your main battery live is good you should be fine to run your relays here rather than direct from the battery.

    For the ecu you could use a std 4 terminal switched relay (vw equivalent is #53) this is normal ignition switched so you just feed it ign, earth, live and power output same as any other. The 67/80/167 fuel relay is the same idea it just has larger terminals on it, you would only need one of these if you decide to use the fuel relay socket. if you put it above the fusebox with the ecu relay then another std 4 terminal relay would do you fine so long as its rated high enough to cope with the load you'll be putting on it
     
  4. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Thanks :) Okay so my plan now then is to get 3 VW relay holders to clip to the top of the fuse box (I'm also fitting a wideband lambda kit) and wire them all in seperately. I'll look at the main feed to the fuse box and decide whether I need to refresh this or not. Would it be easy enough to rewire that with new cable or are the connectors a pain to get hold of?
    Are the vw relay holders available from new or will I have to find them second hand? Do you have a part number for them? Thanks for taking the time to answer all these questions :).
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    its a ring terminal 1 end and a 9.53mm spade the other, so no big deal at all so long as you have crimping tool big enough :) its the battery end that usually goes as it gets corrosion build up.

    1H0937530 - fuse holder - 2.94+VAT
    161937501b - relay holder for 6.3mm spades (i.e. most switched relays) - 5.39+VAT
    867937501 - relay holder for 9.53mm spades (i.e. fuel pump and glow plug relays) - 4.11+VAT
     
  6. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Top Man! I'll get shopping for these parts now then. Is there a convenient point in the back of the CE1 fuse box to take ignition feeds from for my 3 relays?.
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah you can use D/2 or D/7, often a wire in there. can jump all 3 from the same wire if you liek they wont see any load. or if you look at the G spades roudn the back 2 and 5 are both fine to use also:
    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775
     
  8. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    rubjonny, you are a mine of info,
    Jon
     
  9. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Here is an attempt to summarize my comments from post 11 as well as what was said before and after.

    If you wish to have a single solution, using the factory Central Electric fuse box this illustration below shows what to do and where the relays, connectors and fuses are.

    [​IMG]

    Alternatively, if you wish to hook up the ECU as suggested by Sambo and Jon then you can use this diagram. You can still use the fuse box for the fuel pump relay.

    [​IMG]

    Hope it is clearer for all :thumbup:
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    nice post eddie, only thing is the CE1 fusebox ecu relay socket uses a 53 relay, not a 30 :)

    I'm 99% sure the pin layout is different between the 53 and 30/32 ecu relays, but now I think about it it may not be :lol: I can confirm tonight anyway if need be as I have a selection of relays kicking about :thumbup:

    Also the large spade N is not fused, and fuse 17 only protects the ignition live input to relay pin 86 via R/1 the ECU relay output is not fused either
     
  11. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    For OE fusebox solutions, where the engine was originally fitted with K-Jet and is being updated with a SEM, is the principle is the same. So my suggestion is fit a similar relay from a Digifant 2 or 3 vehicle. I do not have these to hand at the moment. So feel free to have a look and I can update the picture.

    'N' is not fused. Correct. On 1988 'CE1' MK2 Golfs this is used as the injector output and is common with E14 via an internal fusebox track. Therefore in the pump stops via J17 so does injection.
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Cool I'll have a look at my relay stash, I'm sure I checked this before but now I forget :lol: I do know that the CE1 digi all usded a 53 but will see if its because thats what fits or if its just an age thing.

    the only other thing I'd worry about using the ecu relay socket is the load the pin R/2 can take... as its only small I'm not sure if it could take the load for the coilpacks? I do know the ceramic fusebox had the fuel pump fed from one of these small round pins and they are prone to burn out.

    Certainly the ECU alone will be fine from R/2 as per CE1 digifant GTI :thumbup:

    be nice if we could get a technical document on the CE1/2 fusebox to see what rating all the pins are good for...
     
  13. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Not recommended.
    Coilpack supply should be as factory, i.e. from KL15 or the original single coil pack source. The 12v feed to the ECU from R1 or from the standalone 4 pin relay is just that, a 12v feed to the ECU.

    The same principle is run in my JENVEE, which covers up to 20K miles a year with no electrical gremlins.
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I'm thinking coilpacks as in 20v, on the DBW engines the ECU relay on the bay does the main ecu feed plus also powers the coilpacks via 15a fuse see. if it is normal coil like mk1/2 then yeah use the stock coil power feed, im not sure if this one is man enough to power a set of 20v coilpacks this is why I use the ecu relay for those

    i had it in my head this was a 20v loom see, but i see theres no mention of this :lol:
     
  15. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    A fountain of knowledge to digest! Think I'll have a good few reads through it this evening to digest it all! Great stuff.
    The loom in question is a standard 1983 mk1 golf GTI loom. Doesn't look in bad condition but I guess that doesn't mean a lot.
    I'm fitting a 16vg60 engine, using a Ford generation 2 coil pack and a crank trigger, wasted spark, batch injection.
    Not having done anything like this before I thought it best to proceed slowly and ask plenty of questions which I'm glad I did :)
    I've ordered 3 bosch 0332 014 112 relays and 3 relay holders which John gave the part number for earlier in the post. Out of interest will the holders come as blanks or wired up with terminals?
    The 3rd relay is for my wideband lambda kit. I think I'll probably opt to wire 3 new relays rather than relay on the fuse box but ill have another read through everything first.
    I'm also thinking of using the spliced power cables from the ecu relay output to power my coil and ill add a fuse to the N supply and supply my 4 injectors from there.
    Still need to read back through all of this first though :)
     
  16. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    I do not advise loading up the ECU relay output as a Coil output. I would rather keep the coil supply separate from the ECU in case of flyback. Just simply extend the current single coil supply (1.5mm black wire) to the middle pin of the Ford coil pack.
    The less you alter the OE system arrangement the more durable the system will work IMO.
     
  17. daniboy1_2_3 Forum Member

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    Ok would there be any harm then in feeding injectors off the same supply as the ECU? And feed the coil separately from the N terminal?
     
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I would run the coil to the old MK1 coil wire on D/23, its the thick black wire to one of the 3 big round pins you cant miss it.

    Run your ecu from one of the relays, on its own. You could run your injector power off it if you like, this is how UK digifant 2 MK2 are wired factory. If you can get hold of a plug R then you can utilise the factory ecu relay socket, if not just put it above the fusebox.

    But if it was me I would put fuel injectors power from the fuel relay, this would make it like a later euro digifant CE1 loom plus how all CE2 looms are. I would choose the big spade N on the rear of the fusebox if you do decide to wire up your factory fuel pump socket to work from the ecu trigger d/13 and pop a 67/80/167 relay in. otherwise if you fit your fuel relay above the fusebox pop it on that. lambda heater power I would run to E/14, there is a male spade hanging out just for this purpose. or the fuel relay above the fusebox if you decide to put it there as above.

    Note if you do go with the d/13 trigger and 67/80/167 relay on the fusebox it means you can use the factory mk1 fuel pump wiring, if you put it above the fusebox then ypou'll have to cut the fuel pump power pin off E/14 and run it to the relay above the fusebox.

    P.S. eddie just checked, the 53 and 30 relay layout is different so you would need a 53 or std 4 pole switched relay if you used the ecu relay socket :)

    edit: the relay sockets will come black, but they take standard 6.3mm latched spades which can be had from just about anywhere :thumbup:
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2015
  19. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    It is not common practice for manufacturers to wire the coil a non amplified coil pack from the same supply as the ECU.
    The supply for this usually comes from the ignition key. I am quite familiar with the flyback voltage and various validation tests done on the coil pack you will be using and would strongly suggest you run the terminal 15 or KL15 from the old coil to the new coil pack. A spike of 80+volts will do the ECU no good, hence keep them separate.

    The the N terminal is the same as the output for the fuel pump supply and is the most robust connection for the injectors, which will stop injecting if the fuel pump relay were to stop energising.

    Ultimately you do follow what ever you think will also work. No harm in that.
    What I have been describing is what I run on my own car with a SEM without any electrical faults over thousands of miles, so there is confidence in that method.

    Good luck and keep us posted.:thumbup:
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2015
  20. Trev16v

    Trev16v Paid Member Paid Member

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    Agree this is a really good resource this particular thread. When integrating an after-market ECU like Megasquirt which I used, I do like to make the installation 'factory' as possible.

    In the case of my MS installation I just assembled a loom to plug straight into the CE2 fusebox ECU connectors, taking the ECU power via the normal ECU relay, and so forth. So the Digifiz loom is just unplugged and Megasquirt loom plugged in place. I appreciate the OP is talking about CE1.
     

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