My Mars Red Mk1 - Thread REBOOT- P82

Nige, the package I got from tshirt2k had a business card inside it which looks like the place where he originally bought the plug from. I will get the details for you.

Gurds

 

The coil is still there. They don't usually come with a plug, wherever you get them from. You can get the connector from the info i gave you which is the same as what was on the card.

 

Another small update. Managed to tidy up all the wiring and get the clocks wired up to show RPM. Two diodes one off each igintion trigger both connect to pin B-19 (as displayed in Toyotec's pin diagram). This enables both coil signals to double up into one RPM signal to any Mk1/Mk2 style rev counter.

I mounted the MS under the glovebox via some cable ties along with the extra fuse box and relays in appropriate positions around the fuse box.



The ISCV is connected via the MS but is unplugged for now as it needs setting up. However, once warm, the engine idles at about 950rpm without it. I learn't today that the throttle stop switch on the ABF is curved with a slotted screw fitment. This allows the position to be adjusted to serve as a throttle stop position too.

Here is a shot of megatune with the engine idling. Ignore the lambda reading as that still needs fitting.



Now, the car is actually in a drivable state so will be test driving soon along wil some calibration work before eventually getting back to Streamline to fine tune and get some results!

Gurds

 

Awesome !

Keep the updates coming, really looking forward to seeing how you get on with this.

 

Good stuff Gurds!

 

Cheers guys

Another thing to note for CE1 fusebox users. The original mk1 kjet fuel pump relay has 5 pins, 4 of which are power, ignition power, ground and the output. But the 5th pin goes to the -ve of the original coil via fusebox pin D-26. This cuts the fuel pump out if the engine stops running. Now, I tried to ground this wire to activate the relay but it doesn't want to know. Also, fusebox pin D-13 doesn't connect to any of the mk1 relay pins. Maybe a digifant relay is needed but I was impatient and ended up wiring in an additional relay as per the Megasquirt wiring diagram.

Gurds

 

Good work.... did you try fitting the earlier type of relay that doesn't have a rev limiter in it?

Do you want to come round and do mine when you're finished?

 

Rev limiter? In the relay? Might be why my torque drops off. Also might be why my rev limiter used to kick in at 6800rpm!

You can come take a look anytime Mike.

Gurds

 

Yep - early cars had limiters in the rotor arm, then they moved it to the relay in about '83(?). If you get an 1800 GTI relay that was meant to have the fancy rotor arm with the limiter, there's no limiter built into that. That's what I run in the track 'rocco, and rev it to over 7k - sometimes I even mean it

 

Nope, the torque drops off due to running rather lean post 6000rpm. Hopefully the fix is what you have embarked on once it is correctly calibrated.

 

It didn't work because the neither of the coil terminals goto ground, one side is ignition live
(terminal 15)the otherside terminal 1- fluctuates, it might have a - but it's not a ground.

 

Rupe,

I agree that it needs an RPM signal and not ground but from what I have read, others have just grounded it. But anyway, given that the relay has got a rev limit of 6800rpm, it's now in the bin.

The wideband has been fitted and calibrated and the car is ready to go. But the crappy weather has put a stop to any testing!

Oh well, no rush.

Gurds

 

It's been 'ready for a test drive' for a while. Time to bite the bullet I'm sure R888s are fine in the snow...

 

you guys got lots of snow then?

 

Not huge quantities in Hayes but the temps are low enough to cause significant traction issues for any road tuning. Will see though. Probably give it a little drive over the weekend.

Gurds

 

Went for a test n tune last night.....



Gurds

 

That lil thing is fast matey.
That lil play with the ITR DC2 and the driftworks S14a made me like that lil MK1 even more!
Long live "WAM".
I am still seeing calibration numbers and feeling the buzz

 

Excellent news

Without giving away any secrets, can you give us a brief overview of what you did in stages please?

 

Great work

its alot easier if you have the standard crank and sensor.

 

There are no secrets really. Just hard calibration work, iteration after iteration. The base start up cal for that car was significantly different to what is on there at the moment. As I say every engine/car is different. Calibration process still is not finished either as some of the other functions need switching on. But you got to get the base spot on first. Takes a lot of time to feel right.