So picked up my oettinger engine bits today I got Kr bored block 82.5 mm Pistons and rods ( not riffled like my race engine) Oettinger knifed crank Two piece ali sump Bare 16v oettinger ported polished head Matched inlet and exhaust manifolds Normal cam case cover suppose there's no point of the fancy one when covered by inlet manifold Injectors etc etc So needs cams valves spings and caps Anyone know much about these engines specs etc ??? Thanks Maybe some pics tomorrow Sump
Doh I had a blank mean buckets But got loads of standard stuff curtesy of my Robt parts stash about thre heads worth lol
Oettinger piston and rod not rifled though should I look for some rifled ones instead ? What do I meassure ??? How do I meassure crank throw ??
So it's certainly a normal cast / forged crank in design. Not a Holbay (just in case anything got lost in translation on purchase between GTI Engineering and Oettinger). It really needs the crank throw measuring, as those casting marks mean little straight off. I'll check my files.
I'd expect 95.5mm, 94.5 mm or 92.8mm. On the off chance of it being a 1Z 95.5mm, are there three crank trigger disc attachment holes at the clutch end?
Yes, there's no reason for them to be H-section, these were just pre-9A (up to) 2-litre conversions really.
So a picture of the end of crank shows no crank trigger disc holes . How do I accurately meassure crank throw ?? Going to miss Chris's knowledge but not politics love CGTI please help guys
without putting it back in the block as suggested (best way imo) you need a flat sheet of something sturdy like an old worktop or sheet steel, and a right angle, and a pair of measuring calipers. draw a straight line on the surface, lay crank down, but the angle to the crank journal, make a mark. spin the crank directly over 180 degrees, do same again. this will give u distance between outer surfaces of big ends 180 degrees apart. divide distance in two from line measurement to give center of rotation. measure diameter of big end, half it, subtract from outer measurements at either end. difference = stroke. dead easy.
As said the easiest way is to drop it into the block but you could pop along to an engine reconditioners, I used to do some work at one place and they had an attachment on the crank grinder for checking the throw, they're never backwards at charging though
Cams ??? Cylinder head is bear so need to build it up from my stash of parts Should I get my KR cams re profiled buy Tsr / piper ? 300? 320? 528? It's purely for track use so not worried about day to day lol JMR ?
Just found some more markings on my crank I meassured the throw as near as I could on my desk lol 95 mm Then found this written on the end of the crank lol 25-94.5-47.8 A so I think that means it's a 94.5 mm throw crank Also the name on the first picture of the crank says Alring ??? Any help appreciated Also big ends have vag no 034701 help to identify please So from a later post I now know it's a Alfing crank Thanks Porth
So been messing with Pistons this morning Oettinger rod 20 gudgen pin no riffling same length as KR KR rod 20 mm gudgen pin riffled Race engine riffled same length as KR but 21 mm gudgen pin ???
If your running k jet stick with around 270 degree cams, if carbs or itb's then yes sub 300 can be used...it will idle and drive like a dog on 300's and k jet. Crank journals look like they need a polish..a machine shop job...and get the stroke checked at the same time. It doesn't say Allen rather than Alring does it? Also...the rod in the pic looks like its had a bearing spin going by the marks and the polished edge...if so ditch them..and get the crank checked for straightness...more often than not a spun bearing will allow the rod to hammer the crank enough to bend it.
