Ouch! Con Rod Bearing You Have To See This!!

I have re-built this 2.0 16v with all new gaskets and seals but decided to leave the bottom end bearings as it's a lowish milage engine!........Bad idea!

This is what happens when you fire up an engine thats been sat for 2 years in a shed! Without changing the bottom end bearings! Opps

I got 5/7 miles before complete detination! (Pics aint brill!)


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Question - Does a 1.8 kr crank fit in a 2.0 6a???

This whole engine re-build has been a Blooming disaster!!!

 

how could that have been avoided?

 

Generally by pressurising the oil system before starting.

I always run em up on the battery to get pressure before starting, or, if it's a re-build, pack the oil pick-up pipe with light grease to ensure it get a vacuum (and sucks oil).

Otherwise they can get a kind of vapour lock thing going on, which is what I imagine may have happened in this case, being left for ages probably allowed the oil to fully drain out of the pick-up, when it was started the oil pump just cavitated without providing any real supply of the black stuff...

I once spent two hours stripping a STi spec C oil pump off, filling the feed pipe with Vaseline and re-assembling, (we'd been turning it on the starter till the damn thing was red hot but it simply would not make pressure!

The owner's "mate mechanic" kept saying "just start it an it'll make pressure" but I wouldn't lol...

A month later I was present when he was doing one and he took his own advice to "just start it"... He's sitting there revving it while we're all watching the oil pressure gauge reading zero... Yep, it seized lol... twit!

Bad luck on your bearings Edds_mk2_16v

Cheers

Simon

 

Erm... KR Crank in a 6A.... I think so

As said above, I don't think it's keeping the same bearings that caused your problem... maybe oil starvation was though. Did you strip it before you decided to run it? Any signs of rust on the crank journals?

 

KR crank in 6A is fine (if I recall correctly KR, 6A, 9A cranks and rods interchange) the pistons deck height is different between the 1.8 and 2.0 to allow for the greater stroke so you'll need to use different pistons of course!

Should be 1847cc I built one years ago but I did it the other way round (9A pistons into an overbored KR)

 

are the crank and rods different lengths ?

agreed looks like oil starvation . was it stored with a sump on it ? was it full of oil (when stored) ?

 

KR, 6A and 9A (and ACE) cranks are dimensional the same apart from their stroke and the rods are all 144mm.

The different strokes are accommodated by different gudgeon pin placement (deck height of the piston) depending on the stroke of the crank

 

Don't like the look of this!
My engine hasn't been started for 3 years!!!
Any tips???

 

come to think of it your right mate a mate has some 1.8t rods going in a bored out kr . but i thought the cranks were different . learning curve

 

As some of the suggestions but another would be a couple of sqirts of oil down the bores to stop the pistons sticking to the sides

2)coil lead off turn over then it will just turn over

3)oil pressure switch off and fill oil through there it will then go stright down to the pump

 

when i built my new engine i took the leads off and spun it over on the starter till the oil light on the dash went out .

 

Must have welded itself due to condestation to the crank from standing so long

 

not if the sump was on with oil in it

 

still condesation possable in a sump all oil in the bearings over the time youve said would

have drained away so no oil between the big end and the bearings so metal to metal and

as mentioned in previous posts struggle to get pressure back and even if you do the oil

would have absorbed moisture in the air so very weak strain of watery thick sticky oil going round

 

Lol just change all the bearings! and crank it over with no sparkplugs in.

 

KR crank will not go in a 6a and work properly. First, the KR is a 1.8 so the stroke as rightly said is different, so you'll have sod all compression, as the piston is soo low.
So, no, it won't work, you'll need another 2 litre crank.

 

Ok, so i cant use the crank then?!?!

Looks like i'll be having a crank regrind ......S0d it, if im having that done i'll get it lightend and ballenced to match the l&b flywheel!!!

Can i use the rods then or not? just in case mine is oval!

I have a spare 1800 16v at home so i have a few spares to use!

 

Turbo conversion then

Thanks for straightening out our dodgy thinking, Mart!

Following on from that point, a crank from a 2E or other 2.0 8v should be usable too, if you find it hard to get a 16v one.

 

Totally correct, I was clearly having a brain fart last night, though the KR crank would fit you'd need 82.5mm pistons with the right deck height for the shorter stroke, which, of course, the 6A pistons don't have

You've got me thinking now, trying to remember what pistons I used in my KR all those years ago, I have a feeling they may have been specials in from the US... Too many house moves, half my notes are g*d knows were

If Kolbenshmit(sp?) still do the bearings it could be re-ground and re-used

Cheers

Simon

 

Err -
Oil doesn't absorb moisture.
Steel or cast iron cannot "weld" themelves to bearing material.
Priming it through the pressure sensor hole won't prime anything except the oil filter, as it has a non-return valve preventing oil getting down into the sump.

Congratulations on being wrong on 3 of your four points - and you are a professional mechanic? Jesus Christ...