Ouch! Con Rod Bearing You Have To See This!!

Blimey this is a bit on top!!!

Anyway, i got the crank out today, its in a sorry state tbh, but it should grind back fine.
i'll post some pics later....

 

The backing on a bearing is steel, which of course can rust, as shown in your picture.
The bearing material itself, which contacts the journals, cannot rust - as shown in your picture. The "rusty colour" you see on the inside of the bearing is the copper layer...

 

would risk it, i would put another crank in that hasn't had a re-grind. if you can get one.

re- grind only if you can't.

 

yep i no the 1st pic is copper but cheers for clearing the rest up about the rusty bits

 

''The backing on a bearing is steel, which of course can rust''

Which will lead to............

 

Well you're the mechanic, you tell me? And what are the chances of an oily steel surface rusting? The bearings shown have been out of the engine, in a cellar, for 8 YEARS!

 

LOL!!!

That engine on the 1st page has spun a bearing - nothing to do with being sitting for any length of time.

Before you think "who is this newbie" I've built engines profesionally for over a decade now...

Alex

 

Quote V.A.W Hillier Fundamentals Of Motor Vehicle technology

White Metal or Babbit Alloys
Resistence to corrosion (not if its not turned a wheel for years)
Good Surface Properties-To prevent seizure or pick up if the oil film break down MOMENTARILY (as above)

 

So you decided to add your own contribution to Mr. Hilliers knowledge? Well done!
Tell me, why haven't all stored engines suffered this corrosion of the bearing material? I have a generator that sat beside a lake for 20 years untouched, and on dismantling it the bearings were good as new...

 

Shut it newbie, EV Nutter is a MECHANIC for Saab, OK? He knows all!

 

probably cos paddy was on holiday b4 he decided to start work on the road to nowhere lol

 

oh btw ata kitemarked

 

still no mention that the engine was stored full of oil .

 

im sorry but having banter is all good n all but why are you even going down the route of taking the **** out of irish people?!the guy just wanted some knowledge as to what happened to his engine

 

think most peple on here would like to know also mate . you will always get banter with forums . thata life!

im trying to figure out what has happened to it tbh .

 

lost its way unfortunately as rather than helpfully point out a fault i could have made he takes the mick apologies on my part

 

Im sorry to the OP, and anyone else, to continue this jack...

Once again EV, you seem incapable of reading back what was already written.

You once again gave spurious advice, and TSC`s `mick-taking` reaction was bourne out of the fact that despite you claims to be a Kitemarked, accredited mechanic, you seem to have a less than basic technical knowledge.

This fact has been evident on a number of occasions, so my advice would be not to advise anyone on anything if you are not completely sure of what you are saying.

Actually I fear that you do think what you are saying is correct...

It`s all very well saying you`re happy to be corrected, but TBH someone in your profession should have a better grasp on basics, and shouldn`t have to be corrected.

As TSC rightly pointed out, wrong information can be, at best, a waste of someone`s time/money; at worst, it could actually be dangerous.

And having to resort to personal attacks when you are proved wrong is just childish and perfectly illustrates your mentality...




So, back to the topic in hand...

You`re right Gill we haven`t established if the engine was stored with oil in the sump, but what I think has been established is that the damage is consistent with oil starvation rather than less-than-perfect storage, making it a moot point.

 

Your correct there guys.

If he is a profesional technician can I ask to what level is he qualified - what professional memberships does he hold - and finally is he ATA Accredited?

Sorry is that seems harsh but one of my jobs is to tech BMW Technicians and Apprentice how to fix cars.

Alex

 

Put the handbags away, ladies.

Edds, when I asked if the pump had been primed... there are a couple of ways of doing this.

1. Fill the engine with oil, and turn it over till it builds up pressure. This sometimes works, but can be a bit hit and miss.

2. Plug the oil pump pickup with vaseline, and fill the pump full of oil, then turn it over without the plugs in. This is based on a patented TSC top tip, so you have to buy him a drink every time you use it. On the upside, it reduces the risk of the oil pump blowing a lot of air into your oil and turning it into an oily foam, which isn't much good for lubrication.

In this case, it could be that that's what happened, but it's hard to tell for sure. Other than the bits of metal in it, what did the oil look like when you emptied it from the engine?

If the oil pressure was low enough to trash the engine, then I'd have thought the buzzer should have sounded when you were driving it. Are you happy that it was wired in properly?

 

The engine was dry stored, i belive it was that way for 2 years!
sorry been away from the pc for the weekend......Been to weston beach race!!!