waterpump pliers across 2 of the waterpump bolts to hold it still, or search for 'tool' in the vw parts section on ebay and you should find some special tools with a triangle hole in which you can use to hold the pulley still. for the crank pulley the extra one is for the PAS, this pulley is actually separate from the main crank pulley but you might find its corroded solid in place. i had one liek this i tried everything i could think of to split them but it was totally seized in place! so i just left it no problems lifting the head with the inlet & injectors in place
Cheers for the help jonny, I actually thought about it this morning (no beer as apposed to last night) and it was pretty obvious that the injectors sit before the inlet valves so np there. Anyhow, I have come to the conclusion that.... i have not got a ****ing clue whats wrong!? Here are some pics to possibly help my explanation to what I found. Big thanks to my mate jim too for letting me use his supersize garage! Before: After: The valves all look fine? No detination to any piston, I also put the crank pully through one cycle and felt all the bores, nothing of any merit to be found there. You can see that the oil has been going down the back of the block most notably through 1 and 4. Also a couple of the head bolts were fully submerged in oil when I removed them whilst others were bone dry, is this normal? The only other thing I noticed is that on the bore wall at the top of the stroke of 1 and 4 its a little more rough than on 2 and 3.
the oil in the bolt holes is normal to see when the head comes off, there is always a bit of oil stuck in the head, when you undo the bolts it pours out the bolt holes and into the block. same reason you often see some of the holes/bores have a bit of water in when you take the head off
Ok, piston roundness has been checked and its all gravy. Also nearly killed myself when separating the pas pully from the crank pully. Pre-warned by RJ that it may be pretty much welded on I went for the crow bar and lump hammer approch. One hard whack saw the pas pully fly across the garage one way and landing just short of the radio and the main crank pully shoot across the floor and smack straight into my injector unit. As far as im aware there is no damage done.
For peace of mind i would hone and re ring to give better sealing. Could be the oil control rings letting by. But you may need to check bore size to see if you are close to rebore limit. Do you have any closer shots of the bores? they look quite shiny. A Flexhone is the easiest way to hone the bores DIY. See my post here. Get them from U.S ebay fairly cheap. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1710084&postcount=23
You may need to strip spring off the head to check guide wear also. This could cause stem seal to wear quicker. Whilst its apart i'd overhaul as much as you can.
Right, a few dumb ass questions.... Where are the oil rings? What is the stem seal, the seal around the tappets? Why are shiny bores bad? Surely shiny non scratched bores are good?
One of the oil ring types: The most popular types of valve steam seals: Surface have to have scratches for lubrication. More >>>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honing_%28metalworking%29 Only such character scratches as these: is a problem.
Bores are supposed to have cross hatching, which helps bed the rings in and holds oil to lube the rings. This was mine after 123K New rings in shiny bores will probably use alot of oil and never seal.
Right lads, been out with a 5 set of wilkos calipers and measured all bores. They are all at 81mm. Oh and piston 1 and 4 are definately NOT round. What the hell do I do now!? Piston one: Piston two: I assume re-hone and new rings for all plus two new pistons?
First off all, don't panic. Take off the engine, disassemble it, inspect all parts to know what exactly you need. Search for parts, save money, buy parts, do necessary machining and assemble. Main thing - don't panic and hurry. Use suggested logarithm to make all as less painful - money and time consuming. It's good idea to get DVD about basic engine building: http://torrents.thepiratebay.org/5129322/Boxwrench_Engine_Rebuilding_DVDRIP.5129322.TPB.torrent
Right so, I dont really want to fully remove the engine. If I take off the sump I can simply unbolt from the crank and push the rods up and out yes? I can then hone the block whilst in place Re-measure bore and replace ALL rings with appropriate size (along with replacing 1 and 4 pistons) Carefully put her back together and then she should live again?
Do you mean the top of the piston or the top of the bore? If it were the top of piston would it make sense to replace all pistons and then get her down to stealth racing asap for vince to re-tune the k-star?
Probably it won't work. Your bore probably is damaged due to melted piston and needs at least proper machining in worst scenario - another bottom end. In either way for good result - reliability you need set of four pistons due to different weight, metals, stress which already have been delivered to two pistons and so on.
