It could be both. In that case the engine could be scrap sorry. If the bores have the cross hatch area as seen in the pictures then you may be lucky. I would put that thing in the bin and modernise the engine with a standalone. Just my opinion though.
Ha ha, bottom end should be safe! When I had the bottom end **** itself I asked them to used heavily over spec bearings so it wouldnt happen again.... that worked out well for me didnt it [:^(]
In theory yes. However if 2 8.5:1 CR pistons can be sourced,are within permissible tolerance assuming the bore is not scuffed and the bearing surfaces have not been damaged ( it should not be in a lean out), then the engine can be rebuilt without removal.
I wouldn't be so sure. Pieces of melted piston could damage oil pump and it would lead to pressure loss, bearing and crank damage. Please, stay with logarithm with out interpretations. It will work in best way.
No too sure what logs have to do with it (unless you mean keep calm and carry on). Should I just call it a day and source a replacement block? Im pretty convinced that swarf hasnt got into the sump as the rings seem to have held up and there is no scoring. but then there is no cross hatch pattern either As for replacement stand alone system... anyone got a spare megasquirt unit and TBs?
I'd definitely get stand alone mate to sort out your leaning problem, sounds like the reason your engines knakered, will only do it again if not sorted. Will probably unleash more power as well.
Can take a macro picture of the bores? It is not over yet mind. Regarding swarf you will need to drop the sump and see if there is any issue.
Do as above. Looks like some pitting on the top of the piston. Kstar obviously not up to the job of supplying enough fuel.
Nope its not, but my wallet aint up to coughing up the 600 or so quid to convert to megajizz and a set of jenveys. So K-star it is for now. Will get some more pics tommorow once I have restored power to the garage
600 is not enough for megasquirt and jenveys together i'm afraid And i wouldn't replace 2 pistons. If you want to do a proper job get 4 replacement pistons as DRV said or if your budget is low as you say just a get another used short block
Just remember those rods have been rebushed to lower the compression, so if you replace the pistons, you must keep the rods and swap the pistons over.
Why would you be needing jenveys? Are you planning on getting rid of the turbo? So looks like all the work you do to rectify this could be undone again by re using the kstar! That seems like a bigger waste of money IMO.
"Megasquirt I" would cost 100-150 quid. It would work 2 or 3 times* better than K jetronic. *joke, but have part of true due fact that old fashion injection destroyed engine and rebuild will cost at least 100 - 200 quid, loads of time and headache.
Right lads, got the sump off, oil pump off and pistons out. No metal at all in the sump, and I mean literally nothing, also nothing at all on the oil filter gause. As for pistons all four are looking a little worse for wear, especially 1 and 4. I tried to get some pics of the bores but didnt come out very well at all. Will post up images of pistons asap. When taking them out, 1 took a bit of a shove, 2 and 3 were fine and 4 half came out and then took a little gentle persuasion from an extension bar and a hammer. It was only a tap but enough to cause concern. Now it literally a case of what to do about boaring and honing the block. Anyone got any suggestions, she is at 81mm at the moment so not too sure how much she has left back in her. Do I simply buy pistons at 81mm and make up the rest with the rings and oil seals?
To measure cylinder bore you need dial bore gage. Caliper gage won't help you measuring with 0,5mm accuracy and another problem - you have to measure at least 10mm from the top of cylinder top deck to get accurate readings because top 10mm are "not working". To find out what size bores are I would check what is it written on the top of pistons. [YOUTUBE]ez--JYSnrsM[/YOUTUBE] [YOUTUBE]HQfh6AZxL08[/YOUTUBE]
Get some pictures up of the bore(s) to see if there are any signs of scuffing. I take it from sparrow's contribution the OE pistons ( rather than modified jobs) are mounted on custom conrod small ends to bring the CR down.
In a kr, the maximum bore wear is 0.07mm according to Haynes which would be 81.07mm. so you need to measure with something more accurate. It can be don with an internal micrometer. Max end gap on the rings is 1.0mm which seems high?? think it's 0.6mm on an abf
Oh yeh I know the wilko value calipers were never going to be actual values, more a rough numerical replacement for 'bore diameter = X' The con rods are indeed milled out to lower the cr.
Right, just a small update on this. Got a lad lined up to do the block work for me and I should be in pretty safe hands in regards to that. I can make out on one piston the size which was something like 80.985 but will check later and make note of it. What should I do about the rings? 1mm seal or 0.6mm like abf? Would somthing like this suit? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JEP-242926/ Also what is the re-bore limit on the KR, i have read people taking it to 84mm on this here interwebs, is this safe?
