So let me get this straight again... 1) I rip off the old door membrane and throw in the bin 2) Prep the door using white spirit 3) Stick flash tape onto the outer door metal? Would I have to disconnect the door opening/lock mechanism to be able to get my hand in. 4) Stick strips of flashing tape over the inner door metal so you cannot see through into the middle (e.g. can't see the door opening mechanism) 5) Cover in dynamat and fit my speakers into the dynamat What happens if I need to get to the middle of the door for some reason again? Is it a case of peeling the dynamat and the flash tape off?
Once you've completely sound proofed the inner door skin i would recommend porting the membrane behind the speaker. This then allows the speaker to use the door chamber for bass resonance. Just make sure that the port goes in far enough to stop water coming through.
i was in B&Q warehouse yesterday and asked for the flashing tape and the chap looked at my like i was from another planet lol, i had a wander around but couldnt see any. Whats its intended purpose? If i know this ill have more of a chance of finding it in the shop! Cheers all Edited by: D4RK1
the stuff i go was called aqua seal...any help? i also used some of that silver insulation stuff that coems in sheets for insulating sheds etc...works well
guys be careful you dont buy the original flashing which is made from lead, you will find it around the building section, it costs about 16 a roll depending on how much you wanna use, i am currently priming , painting and putting flashing on my floorpan inside the mk1
i got mine in wicks, i asked the ppl in hombase and they had noidea what i was on about. in wicks it was 10 for a 10m roll, i did both my doors and i still have enough left to do the booy and fix the little bot of roof over my back door . it does weigh a bit but not to much, its foil backed. made a big difference, my doors sound nice now!