Discussion in '16-valve' started by Toyotec, Jul 4, 2007.
There are loads of guides and examples around that will help you then
Nige means a mk4 golf 20vt engine, just to clarify
I have just stuck a useful thread for the current flow diagrams for ABF Digifant 3.0 and 3.2 controlled engines >>>here<<<
Hope that helps someone
with regards to this old thread , does anyone know the question , is 5-6% co% the best for ABF on kjet??
I found it to give the most stable idle back in the day. That is why I mentioned it.
Rapid response Toyotec, thanks ! What about for CO% for performance and not idle, any suggestions ????
By default, I was about power and response when I wrote this thread
Phew, been reading this thread off and on over last few months, there's probably some bits I've missed. I'm going abf-kjet but I'm wondering if ce1 fuse box on k-jet makes a difference (if any) also will most likely have the entire kjet system refurbished at
Don't know if anyone has dealt with these before but I've heard good things. Any advice appreciated.
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The electrical system architecture makes no difference to engine performance, if you are going to use Kjet.
The car that was used to start this thread is a central electric 1 vehicle. It is still alive with that ABF engine today.
ABF k-jet issues setup
I've been reading this thread for months and I have finally swaped from KR to ABF on K-jet. Unfortunately I haven't managed to set it up properly yet.
Here's what I have done so far:
- ABF swap with Supersprint 4-2-1 manifold
- new timing belt and set timing to 'original' 6 degrees
- installed an AEM wideband gauge to check mixture
- I 'shunt' the fuel pump relay and manually moved the air flap all the way up to check that the fuel quantity delivered is the same for each cyclinder. (It is)
- new fuel injectors
- I couldn't find vacuum leaks
- new air filter
- new Bosch fuel filter
The problems that I am having and how the car drives are the following:
- the idle slightly goes up and down
- My AFR gauge reads a rich mixture on cold starts (which I think is normal)
but it reads very very lean on part throttle or no throttle (20+) (under 1500 rpm)
when I reach a roundabout or a crossroad the car is like 'shaking'
and I have 'normal values' like 13-12.5 for full throttle
- but even with these readings the car accelerates very fast and properly in one go from 2000-5000 rpm (I haven't tried more rpm since it's not running
- I checked the spark plugs and they were more on the black and rich side
Does anyone know how i can fix this? Could it just be a wrong CO value? I don't know what it could be else? maybe the metering head?
(Please don't tell me to swap for Digifant as I can't at the moment and I would like to keep the K-jet for now. I can imagine to one day swap for 45 Webers but I can't afford it now.)
I would really like to have your opinion on this, thank you for every comment and help!
Glad this thread is still relevant.
- the idle slightly goes up and down - Metering head pivot screw adjustment required as it is set too rich
- My AFR gauge reads a rich mixture on cold starts (which I think is normal) - Metering head pivot screw adjustment required as it is set too rich.
*Timing is not set to "stock kr hanynes manual" recomdnedations* It is set optimally at ~15 BTDC. Be mindful of top end spark timing though. The ABF has more CR and it takes a while by the seat of the pant to select the ideal dizzy set point.
The original 'how to' old girl still kicking ass!
Thank you for your reply Toyotec,
I followed your instructions. I let the engine warm up and set the timing to 14-15 btdc with my timing light. It runs a little better now, I have better throttle response and the idle got a little steadier but a lot higher +/- 1800 rpm. (The idle screw is all the way in)
The car also "jumps" less at low rpm but it still does it. I also turned the allen screw a little anticlockwise to lean out the mixture but now I'm confused: I have read that a lean mixture makes the idle rise, but believing my black spark plugs and my AFR the mixture is rich.
Sorry if it's mentioned earlier in the post but I couldn't find that information: should I use the KR or the ABF spark plugs?
Again thanks a lot
Edit: I fixed the issue. My ISV was causing an "air leak", I replaced it and the idle is now fine at 1000rpm. It took me quite long to figure it out because the ISV was buzzing, so I supposed it was working right, but it must be stuck in open position. The strangest thing is that it was working fine with my KR engine. It's strange that a few days later on the ABF engine it didn't work, but I guess sometimes things just break... With the new ISV, my AFR gauge now shows accurate values, so there was definitely something wrong with it.
Hi all - doing this conversion and wanting to purchase in advance a few bits to freshen it up. My car is an 1987 KR - will be putting in the ABF and retaining KJet.
If I buy a SAMCO hose kit or the like - am I better off buying a kit for an ABF, or a KR - my car has the original KR 16v radiator as far as I can tell.
Dizzy - do we use the KR dizzy ?
HT leads - following on from the above question - should I buy new leads for an ABF or a KR.
I've also got stored a Miltek manifold for a Mk2 KR - that should still fit hopefully ? Maybe just a few mods to do with clearance in regards to the extra height of the ABF ?
Thanks for your help !
1. depends on the metal pipe you use, as the abf hoses on the block are slightly different to the kr. if you want to keep the abf block hoses you will need a mk3 kit, but with mk2 radiator hoses
3. abf and kr lead kits are the same
4. if its specifically made for kr then chances are it will hit the tunnel
Use the hose kit for the KR as per the car at the beginning of this post,. which is still going.
You are using a K Jet system, so have the reuse the KR distribute.
A Miltek manifold will do nothing on an ABF - Kjet car, other than foul the tunnel. Just use the stock manifold with even an 8v downpipe.
ABF stock fury is still night and day from a KR.
No clearance mods required as per the car in this post. That car was on all KR mounts, which went back on the vehicle, 13 years ago.
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