I've seen these top mounts. They do look very good. The fag packet design I'd come up with beforehand is very similar. I've not heard of using mk4 driveshafts and TT wishbones before though??
I take it by extending everything out the camber gets thrown out but by having adjustable top mounts your also moving the top outwards bringing the angle back to what you need, or am i way off? I suppose you can only do it so far without the springs rubbing, but i think we are talking, what 2-3 inches?
guy on vortex with the mk1 scirocco 20vt did something similar, and Phatty has played with the TT wishbones-not tried it myself, just throwing in ideas
I will get some pics up eventually but my current setup comprises of: - Longer wishbones. Standard items cut and spaced with strengthening plates. - Ground control top mounts. - Compbrake tie rod ends (they are longer than standard). - Ball joint spacers. Same as the group buy ones. My track width is considerably wider than standard now. Need to work on the driveshaft lenght. Was thinking that its possible just to take a standard inner cv joint and machine it to the correct thinckness and use it as a spacer like the pics shown on the Roma tuning car. Would just need longer cap bolts. Gurds
That would be fantastic mate as there are a few people interested in this information. Thanks again. vw_singh clear your inbox out .
Correct. If you're going Berg Cup style wide and don't change the position of your top mounts you'll mess up your steering feel.
gotta be careful spacing out driveshafts as this changes their angle to be more acute = more chance of CV wear / failure - best to have as long a driveshaft as possible to minimise angles
Rob i thought that by moving everything out at the wheel end then a spacer at the gearbox end would give the same angle again?
whats the 'correct' suspension geometry then ? correct for a shopping car or correct for a stripped out lowered trackday car with wide wheels and a nut behind the wheel thing is the std geometry is a massive compromise and can be significantly improved upon if you have the time/knowledge/skills alternatively, like most of us, its trial and error.
Here are a couple a poor quality pictures. You can see the plating over where the joint has been made. This is a pic of a 5.5x14 et 35 clio steelie with 165 tyres, just to give you an idea of how much further out the wheel is sitting. My old 7x15 et 25 wheels sat out of the arch. Not the best comparison but you can see how far under the arch the same wheel sat on the back axle. And here are my GC topmounts after the initial fitment. Difference in tie rod end joint length. Gurds
Well just wacking great big spacers on isn't going to do anything for your handling. I understand everything is a compromise. I use suspension simulation software at uni which I'm using to design the front suspension for my uni's Formula Student Race car. Once I've finished this i'm going to analyse different setups on a mk2 golf. So then I'll be able to tell you "theoretically" the best setup for a desired result.
Thanks for the pics Gurds, looking good. How did you find the fitting and adjusting of the GC topmounts?
Thanks Sean. They were pretty straight forward but did require the raised radius to be removed with the trusty angle grinder. Adjustment does require a jack to persuade the camber adjustment to move. My aim is to have the widest track possible under factory arches. I don't want to fit the berg cup body kit if I can help it. Gurds
Gurds, how much have you extended the wishbones by? And are those tie rod ends off-the-shelf items? Compbrake or other?
The wishbones are 25mm wider per side. And the tie rod ends are Compbrake items. I got the tie rod ends and ball joint extenders from Roxylife on here. Gurds
Thanks mate. Have you changed the mounting of the tie rod to correct bump steer? And how have you lengthened your drive shafts?