1988 Gti 16v Rough Running Issues - Found a couple of things - Need help!

I've got a set of injectors in the shed if you want them? Used but in better condition that those things lol.

They were off my 16v, I replaced them with some shiney new ones from a Mercedes.

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So you think, there's a good chance that they're dud? They were filthy. Especially, the first one next to the air box.
I'll buy Mercedes ones if they're shot.
I've got it booked into a VW/Audi Specialist this Thursday. Just wondered whether to replace the injectors BEFORE they have a look at it?

 

I'm going to check the spray pattern of the injectors tonight. This is how it sounded from cold, but started spluttering as soon as it warmed up...

 

Injectors are fine. Tried another metering head and still the same. Going to replace the fuel pump and filter next.

 

Right! Thought I'd book it into a local tuning place (Team Valley Tuning) this Monday. See if they have any luck with it, as I'm getting really sick of spending money on it and STILL not being able to drive the car.

 

Got some info from the lads at the tuning company - they seem to think the problem is on the high tension side of things/electrical. Hopefully, they can sort it out.

 

Leads failing on cylinder one.
They have been replaced but it's no different.
Garage said, "There's a high resistance on the amplifier, on the ignition side".
Anyone got any ideas?

 

So there's no difference at all between 8v or 16v ones?

 

I've got one and I'm local if you want to give it a try.

 

My car is still at Team Valley Tuning, but I'll buy it off you and drop it into them to try?
Could meet you somewhere local?
Thanks!

 

Enjoyed speaking to you this morning molegti (Andrew). I've got to drop the module into the fella at the Tuners tomorrow.
Hopefully, it might sort my problem. If not, I may be persuaded to go down the ABF route instead, as this is the second place I've had it to, without any luck.
By the time I pay someone to look at it again, it might be more cost-effective to drop another engine/wiring etc. into it?

 

The word from the mechanic is that it's got an interference problem within the wiring somewhere? I'm not even going to attempt to mess about with that stuff. Doesn't help when you're colour blind!
Anyone know a good auto electrician in the Gateshead/Newcastle area? This is just turning into a money pit. May have to just put it back in the garage for another 6 months.

 

Picked the car back up this morning. Discovered I have in fact got a leaky injector - new Mercedes ones due to arrive today. Fuel pressure is fine. Distributor fine. New replacement Leads on (VW Heritage can have there's back!).
Need to get it booked into the Auto Electrician ASAP.

 

Hi, I might be inclined to wait to see if the injector solves the problem. When we spoke I think you mentioned it was a misfire on cylinder 1? Fuel getting out and air getting in might be the issue.

If you decide to go down the ABF route by all means give me a shout and I can help you with a few pointers as I've been down that route with a CE1 car. Rubjonny is probably the expert but I'm a bit closer than Bracknell.

 

Thanks! Going to try the injectors first anyway. Leads had failed on cylinder One and a leaking injector on the same cylinder. Fingers crossed.

 

New injectors might have cured the problem. Started first time and ticking over nicely. I'll take it for a test drive tonight, to know for sure.

 

Got the Mercedes injectors in and bland off the breather pipe with a bolt and jubilee clip. I used a spare bit of hose I had lying around to attach to the metal breather pipe on the engine. Had the car for a test drive. It was fine for about 5 minutes, but after that it started wanting to cut out at slow speed and every time I hit the brakes, it cut out completely and the engine then starts to tick over really low and hunts? Any ideas?
I've found a wire connection that has snapped (diaphragm pressure switch). Will this have any effect?

The snapped connection...


The breather pipe I've blanked off. Think I've done this correctly?...


And the metal pipe on the block that the breather attaches to...


A short video of the car ticking over after it starts hunting...
http://vid1337.photobucket.com/albums/o668/gazzaj71/IMG_0810_zpshdaiykz5.mp4

 

Breather looks good. That's how mine was until I removed it all together and fitted a catch tank.

After capping off the breather, you'll need to tweak the screw in the metering head and maybe the idle screw in the throttle body as you've changed the amount of air getting into the engine.

Air from the breather enters the manifold post metering flap so it's unmetered air. With the breather removed, theres no extra air getting in so you might need a little less fuel

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