Keep the power steering. "I also compared it to the 02A CTN gearbox that everyone seems to like. CTN FD 3.158 1st 3.778 2nd 2.118 3rd 1.360 4th 1.029 5th 0.755" That`s a very tall final drive. 3.158 !! I certainly wouldn`t be using that on a track car. I wouldn`t be using the EUH FD 3.389 either. Even this is borderline imo EVS FD 3.684 1st 3.300 2nd 1.944 3rd 1.308 4th 1.029 5th 0.837, I`d be looking at a 3.9FD if I were you.
I hear you get a better feel from a manual rack. That was from when I was looking to put the engine in a road mk2. Gonna go with the EVS box for now though. Budget build. It can evolve over time. Once i start driving it I'm sure I will know what I want to change.
Built up the hubs to measure clearances. Measured the calliper opening with the piston full in. So they are the same as 16v callipers. But the carrier opening is not wide enough to accept a vented disc. But the overall width of the carrier is the same as the 16v ones. So I could just machine some material out of them to open up the gap. Hey presto, cheap 16v brakes.
Only cheap if you can machine them yourself But careful grinding shouldn't be to hard for most of us Nice find Luke
Got some parts from VW. Crank bolt, cam pulley bolt, oil strainer, and oil pump chain tensioner. Still need the tool to remover the camshaft chain tensioner if anyone has one? I asked in VW but they "couldn't" give or sell me one.
Got a 16v corrado front engine bracket. Just need the gearbox bracket and that's the mounts sorted. Should have one lined up. Will come with a 02a gearbox im buying just for the mount and 100mm bolt in cups.
Gonna have a go at electroplating for this project. Started researching how to zinc plate bolts etc. Doesn't look to hard. Had a go at de-rusting some bolts using electrolysis first though. Works very well. This is one of the sub frame bolts too. This one was quite rusty, just thought I'd test out how effective it was. Wont be re using this one. lol I also compared my new g60 rear engine bracket to a standard 1.6 carb one. Got quite annoyed when I first looked at them. As they looked identical dimension wise. Same angle and same height. I measured it quite loosely. But I refit both of them twice and remeasured and they came out practically the same. But after turning to the internet to see if this was actually the case, I forgot that I didn't measure the length. 1cm difference. So people in the future, Just space a standard bracket out 1cm instead of forking out stupid money for one. Sod it. And some more measuring. I have g60 front brakes on my 16v and just wanted to see if the callipers are actually wider for the thicker pads. They are. 16v callipers have a 53mm opening for 20mm disc 2x16mm pads. And the g60 calliper has a 61mm opening for the 20mm disc and 2x20mm pads. Im getting to a whole new level of mk2 nerdyness. And then some painted 20v engine brackets and covers.
Scored some cheap genuine 16v brakes and hubs at gti international so I thought i'd compare the carriers. Turns out your wouldn't be able to machine out the gap for the larger dish. The offsets are different. I was assuming the wider vented disc would be wider in both directions but it looks like its just wider in one direction. As you can see from the first picture, with the mk3 tdi solid disc fitted. And they seem a lot chunkier and the brake pad seats are different. The hubs are defiantly the same though. So at least thats a cheap source for hubs for g60 brake conversions and for 16v callipers.
Bought some more bits from inters. Single lamp grill, lower panel and a 16v splitter. I have some early 16v arch guards with brake ducts in them lying about too. So I can finally use them.
Bought a new cam link chain tensioner as this was cheaper than buying the compression tool and new gaskets separately. So now I can finally take the head apart.
Whipped the rear beam and fuel tank out today. Getting a GTI rear beam with ARB and disc brakes to put on rather than the floppy driver one. And the fuel tank needed to come out to do the welding on the rear turret. And also I expected the fuel filler neck bracket needed doing like very mk2 ever. Very very happy with the underside of this shell. Very clean. Hardly any rust. Only a little on stuff like the exhaust hangers. Other than that the underseal has held up very well. Will be a shame to strip it all off in a future evolution of the track car. Sod it for now though. Even the fuel filler hole is good! And here is the well known rusty fuel filler neck bracket. I can see why it rots out though. So much mud up under there. Im surprised its not rotten all the way down behind the filler neck. And one quick question. Does anyone know if the carb fuel lines can take the gti fuel pumps pressure? They look the same diameter and construction compared to my 16v. I plan on using a gti lift pump and an aftermarket swirl pot and in line pump. Anyone had any experience with the carb lines?
I managed to swap the coilovers off of the car and the headlining I had out of my old jetta for; a non rusty sub frame (well at least with no holes in it) with manual steering rack and GTI front ARB still in place, Mk3 gti rear beam with all the brakes still attached, And a whole load of plastic arch trims. Stripped all the parts off of everything so I could paint them up. Steering rack proved a little difficult with the bolts all rusty. These were the only bolts that gave me trouble. Angle grinder sorted them out though. So now I have a choice of manual or power steering setups.
Very tidy shell indeed! Carb return fuel line is smaller in diameter. They are all the same size on all injection models, no matter if 16v or 1.3i Top work!
I've had people tell me that they use the carb lines with no issue. So I will give it a go. Can always change them if I need to That was a dirty job! Knot wheeled the rusty old parts and painted them. Needs another coat but looking a lot better already And everyone knows red roll bars are stiffer
Haha yeah I know, just a couple. Yeah pretty much when im not being lazy or at work im down at the garage. You gonna start a thread for your mk1? You dug it out yet?
Luckily the rear callipers are all free and all the bleed nipples and pipes cracked off lovely. I thought I still had the old 4 stud rear discs off of my 16v since the discs that came on the mk3 beam were 5 stud. But I can't seem to find them. So I think I am going to upgrade to the polo gti rear hubs. Since this is for the track I would like a more reliable bearing anyway. And it will be sort of the same price as getting new mk2 rear discs and bearings. Does anyone know what these big rubber discs are? I can't think of any reason they are there. I did see someone say it was a weight to release the handbrake better but the arm the are bolted too doesn't move.
Aye I've seen those rubber thingies too on a mk3. They were exactly the same as yours, badged Ford too. It was a 97spec GTI. BTW how are you going to refit the rear beam brackets to the body? I'm about to tackle this job myself, and I believe that refitting them in correct angle is critical to tracking.
