Ah its to stop the rear brakes squealing while reversing. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6997979-Replaced-rotors-pads-Unsure-about-noise Not sure how they do anything though. Since they are just bolted to the bracket that doesn't move for the handbrake cable.
Do you mean aligning the rear beam brackets when doing tracking? I can't really see how it can be done with the beam in place. I don't think there is enough space to loosen the bracket bolts.
Yeah. Thats how most cars with rear beams adjust the tracking. There is enough room, that's how I took the beam off.
Did the brackets give outwards as you released them? I thought there's a bit of a knack and tension to refit the beam to untouched brackets. Nice info on the caliper carriers, hubs btw.
Very tedious job today. Sorted every nut a bolt for the suspension, bumpers, engine, gearbox and engine bay. Ready for them all to be zinc plated. Pretty sure I've got them all apart from the starter motor bolts from a Corrado. Since the Mk4 ones don't reach far enough for the front engine bracket. I made a big mess in the unit fishing out all the bolts. Box of 20vt mk2 golf bolts and brackets Took the clutch master cylinder out. Love working on second hand projects. Looks like he used a chisel to make this hole Bought some new brake pipe so I can replace some pipes and plumb in an adjustable bias valve. Can anybody identify this master cylinder? Can't find a part number on it. Only markings are what you can see in the pictures. It says 22 DE in the second one. I'm assuming its a 22mm master cylinder?
Got a couple of parts in the post and picked a few parts up from VW I got new rear beam bushes, ARB drop links in the post and Corrado starter motor bolts and a fuel filler bracket from VW The fuel filler bracket is 10.01 from VW rather than 30 on eBay and 13? on heritage. I did get new ball joints too but I needed new bolts that they didn't come with, even though they were pictured with them. Painted the 9 inch servo And I decided to fit the rear beam bushes. This is a pain in the ass job even with the beam fully out of the car and disassembled. Easy enough to get the new bushes in once I made up a puller. But getting the old ones out was a pain. Had to touch up the new paint after though.
Cleaned up and painted the brakes. The front callipers look like they have never been used, just a bit of surface rust on them from storage. So I scored a bargain there. Used electrolysis on the braided line ends as they were a little rusty. Oiled them up after to stop them rusting again. And I started stripping the head down to be cleaned up and skimmed. This was a quite high milage engine so it all needed checking anyway but to my surprise there is very little wear on the cams and buckets. Very happy. Can anyone explain the offset valve timing of the middle inlet valve too? The cam link chain tensioner is very worn though. Defiantly needed changing. While the valves were still in I thought id check how well they were sealing. Filled the chambers up with fuel. 1,2 and 4 didn't leak at all, but 3 poured out of the inlet side. Hopefully its just a build up of carbon. But we will see when I take the valves out tomorrow.
Got all the valves out today. Again, all in fantastic condition. Inlet ports and valves are very clean and only a little carbon buildup in the exhaust ports. Wouldnt of guessed the milage on this. This is what was causing the leaky valve on the bench test. A little bit of dirt that wiped off with my finger. I don't think it would have been leaking with the engine running because it wouldn't have stayed there very long. Did have one hickup though. My valve spring compressor was too big to fit in the hole for the inlet valves. So I quickly made up a new head to get the collets out. Can you guess which one is the home made? lol
Took the head to the machine shop tomorrow to be cleaned and skimmed ready to be put back together and refitted. And I tried to take the bolts to the platers to be done but they weren't willing to leave them in the acid long enough to get rid of the rust and recommended it got them blasted. So I went to buy some brick acid from toolstation to do them myself. Bubbling away After 20 mins After an hour and a half Going to leave it all in overnight now.
am very happy with this brick acid rust removal method, Vinegar can get lost. If anyone want to try it I used the brick cleaner from toolstation. Use the correct material gloves as it is basically hydrochloric acid. Since it's bare metal you have to protect it immediately, because it rusts very quick after washing off the acid with water (as you can see with my pliers, they were ok yesterday). I used wd40 to protect them before I can get them all zinc plated. I also picked up the head from the machinist. Very happy with how clean they got it.
Head rebuild time. First step. Clean the carbon off of all the valves. Then I lapped all 20 of the valves. The inlet valves were all pretty good so just needed checking with some fine paste. But the exhaust valves were quite pitted. So well worth doing. The valve seats were all ok though. And done. Can refit all the valve springs tomorrow. Need to wait to get my new torque wrench to refit the cams though.
Been a busy boy today. Had a load of engine parts and the bumper bars blasted. Very happy with the engine parts. Look brand new. Going to take all the bolts to the platers tomorrow. Can rebuild the engine after that. And I rebuilt the head. Those inlet valve collets are a pain. Hardly any room to fit them. Got it done in the end after a lot of fiddling. Fitted all new valve stem seals. A 3/8th deep socket is perfect for fitting them. Then timed up the cam link chain. 16 chain rollers between the points and lined up on the marks. They are a smidge off because the tensioner isn't full of oil yet. Should have put the cam lobes back on when I had the head cleaned. Ah well. Tomorrow I will pin the crank pulley and then torque the new bolt up. Need to remember to put the front oil seal back on first. I will probably refit the head on the block after that. After that I need all the bolts before I can do anything else.
Didn't get as much as I wanted done today because my instant gasket had dried up. So couldn't fit the front crank oil seal housing, So I couldn't torque up the crank pulley, so I couldn't fit the oil pump. And I don't want to fit the head until i have fitted the sump etc, because if I turn the engine over on the stand after that it's bound to magic some oil out of somewhere and leak all over the clean head. But I did pin the crank pulley, painted a couple of parts and put a layer of wax on all the aluminium parts to stop them oxidising too quickly. All the bolts are now at the platers too. So I have that too look forward to.
It has got to be clean for when it brakes and I have to work on it lol And if it's all clean and nice I will feel beter about driving it. So will go faster (theory)
I can only do little bits while I'm waiting for the bolts to come back from plating so I had some little spacers made. They are for the rear engine mount so I can use the normal mk2 golf bracket. 11mm for anyone wondering. I don't need the vacuum like on the top of the throttle body and it fouls on the bonnet if you leave it. I pulled the pipe out to weld it closed but it was brass, So I cut the end off, filled it with with chemical metal and then painted it. And I bought some new (better type) coilpacks so I can do away with the ignition control module that is on the AGU And I've started to plan out the wiring.
Got most of the plated bolts back today. But I think a couple have been done the wrong colour as they seem to have mixed a few bags that I sorted out. Only found one bolt that is the wrong colour so far but I have seem in the bags of the suspension bolts just seem to have been bagged up randomly. Should be easy to sort out. But annoying. I wasn't really expecting the clear plating to be so shiny but its ok. And the yellow plating is quite dark, almost gold. Which is a little disappointing. Anyway I have pretty much rebuilt the engine today. It's a great looking engine now
