I do admire your attention to detail. Not something I would recommend as those pins and subsequent drilling of the components are no match for the forces you would find on the accessory drive end of a crankshaft. You would need to ensure surfaces on the crank and the on the bolt faces are flat and clean to guarantee good clamping force. It will look brilliant when you done. Looking forward to when you complete this project.
Thanks! It's all in the details. Thing is im going to have to fully clean and possibly respray the engine bay now to fit that engine. The pins can't hurt though? It's done and all torqued to spec with the new type bolt now anyway. I was following a thread on here to do it, with the recommended pins.
Pins are used for location and do not enhance the required clamping force, which you get by torquing the bolt down properly. This is why the thread in the link was written to clear up that myth. You need a tool to lock the crank properly and then you can torque to spec. Cog will never be able to fret the mating faces or shear the locator key after that.
Ah ok, yeah I had a read through that thread you linked. I put blocks of wood in the crank to torque it 90nm plus 90 degrees. I got a few things done last night. Managed to stay down at my unit quite late. Started building up some parts with the new bolts before I forget where they all go. Looking good. Forgot my proper camera though so you get crappy phone pics. I cleaned up the turbo and lines and removed the snapped off bolt. Didn't go mad cleaning it too much since its hidden and I have a feeling it wont be on there very long. But I did go mad cleaning all the coolant pipes I have lying about ready to make up a coolant system. Don't want a dirty pipe touching my clean engine.
It will be presented very slowly on the track at first I expect. I have no track driving experience. Thanks Cope.
Jet washed the underside of the car today. All of the dirt was transferred from there onto my face. Half and half The fuel tank bracket is on the list to fix. Had a poke at the rust on the rear turret. The hole got a bit bigger. I think im going to drill out the spot welds on the rear turret to move it out of the way. Then I can do the fix and weld it back on. Will just be a neater job. Got the rest of my zinc plating back I also cleaned up a few bits and painted the power steering rack and pipes.
Take some pics of your turret repair as ive gotta do this be helpful to see someone elses take on it.
Spent a bit at the dealers on O rings, copper washers, gaskets and exhaust manifold nuts since I lost them. Got to love new hardware though. It all adds up. But the engine is now complete, bolted together and ready to drop in when the car is ready.
Haven't done much but I cleaned up the gearbox and painted it. And I made some dollies to keep the engine and geadbox on.
Yeah this one is staying because its still a project and fun. I just own the 16v now. Nothing to do it it.
Last few bits of parts painting I think! This is the 3rd set of brakes that I've cleaned and painted. G60 fronts and mk4 golf rears this time though. And the linkage for the gearbox. Clutch slave cylinder 100mm drive shaft cups Set of wheels I had lying about I got some 16v drive shafts and stripped them down for new boots and outer CVs. Reusing the inner ones. I hate cleaning old grease out of CVs. I am doing a stud conversion on this car (because race car) and I was trying to figure out what nuts I am going to need for the wheels have for the car. And of course both sets of wheels need different style nut seats. Used some wheel bolts and coloured them in with a sharpie, then spun them in the wheels to put a mark on them. The mims use a 60 degree taper style and the bbs use a radius seat.
Been spending all the money. Waiting on about 20 packages now. Got a new set of engine mounts and a clutch master cylinder.
More parts! New dipstick and dipstick tube, gearstick cable ends, flywheel inspection hole cover, oil filter, cam belt cover, 1.3 speedo cable to fit the o2j box, and some new hand brake cables The cam belt cover part (on the right) is from a longitudinal mounted engine/a seat ibiza engine so doesn't have the cutout for the engine mount. I have also ordered the upper cover from a seat ibiza, should be here tomorrow. You can fit ones from longitudinal engines again but the ibiza one, doesn't have a bump or clips on it. I fit the rear engine mount onto the block. Used a standard once and spaced it out 11mm instead of fitting the g60 one. To avoid having to cut a notch out for the coolant feed hose. Plus its less expensive Built up the 16v drive shafts with new outer CVs and new boots and grease all round. And bolted some of the fresh parts onto the gearbox. Looks very tasty. Should have the new clutch and flywheel turn up tomorrow as well.
