Possibly but the spec states they are to fit in a 14mm hole and the engineer measured them and said that was right. The guy reamed them to 14mm. Could of got away with a little oversize but it's all done now. Edited by: Dub Nutta
Gary,I take these out occasionally from truck hubs,must be about 26mm dia.,and as they are already pressed in the stud splines have already cut into hub so removing and refitting is fairly easy. Fitting from new in new holes will be harder as you are cutting into the new hole. Still should be quite easy but not as easy as refitting in old. Plus maybe the machine shop had a blunt reamer can`t trust these guys at all.
Right, fronts are done now aswell. I have decided to just use the bog standard Graystone studs in the front because of worries about there not being sufficent material arround the standard hole to use the press in splined studs above. Anyway screwed them in by hand and they did come to a point where they tightened up. Then welded arround the back to ensure there is no way they can come out. I didn't experence any problems with distortion as the studs were already firmly located on the threads
Interesting - it might be the width of the base of the Grayston splined studs that made it look as if there wasn't enough meat around the hub to accept a drill out. They certainly aren't going anywhere - so that's that worry sorted! I think Dogwood got a set of Techno2 splined studs in to the fronts. Any recollections Nick?
They would of gone but with the spline giving an ideal point for a fracture to start from and there only being about 3mm of material left I decided it wasn't worth the risk, esiecialy as I will be using slicks in the future.
The welding bit on the front hub's is interesting dubnutta, i was going to do that with mine but was told that the weld wouldn't stick to the studs as they are galvanized???? Did you have any probs??
Nah not atall. I think it's jsut a zinc plated finish. When you weld it you get a white/yellow powder left over where the weld has burnt it off. I had the welder turned up nice and hot as the flange isn't your standard mild steel. Weld seems to have penitrated about half way througth the flange. They're well stuck in there now!!
Not too bad if you can carry a spare front hub built up, but doubt you'll be taking a press along to change a front hub flange
i thought i should revive this again!!! just read through it for the Nth time, in summary then what are the best srew in type studs to use?? I have seen the bildon ones pictured before, but bildon also sell VW racing ones for $1 more each. what will be best...... i'm not going to use my car on a track (much) but do have a few different sets of wheels and also no mounting screw in my discs cos of the willwood conversion, so this will help me no end when swapping wheels. what should i buy these with hex key holes to tighten or these as pictured before? Ro
Almost forgotten about it myself! The VW Racing ones are the ones I'd choose - large centre section being the main reason, and also the first few threads being missing being the other (neat finish for show, practical for spinning nuts on quickly) However, if they don't have stock, I would be surprised if they can get them, since VW Racing UK now makes their own, for the reason they're no longer available from Germany.
the ones you mention chris are the bildon own ones, i agree they look better and are cheaper, i liked the idea of VWR ones and hex head but i like the idea of the definate stop on the nuts for tightening. i'd better order some now!! Ro Edited by: Ro
bump"spotted these on ebay,look cheap quality? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stud-conversion-kit-for-VW-Audi-hubs-a lloy-wheels_W0QQitemZ8033249325QQcategoryZ72257QQrdZ1QQcmdZV iewItem also while having a tidy out came across a box full of new studs&nuts,dont know what of but if of any interest to anybody?,ile post a pic tomorrow Edited by: mk1.