Converting wheel bolts to studs and nuts

Discussion in 'Track Prep & Tech' started by GVK, Apr 4, 2005.

  1. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Yes, best time you could pick to do it.
     
  2. Dub Nutta Forum Member

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    The front hubs I got from GSF are skimmed on both sides so only need the threads drilling out.

    However the rear drums need a little more work, they are at the machine shop at the moment so will stick some pics up when I get them back.
     
  3. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Are mk1 hub flanges different to mk2 then?
     
  4. Dub Nutta Forum Member

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    They are different Pt numbers but I didn't think Mk2 hub flanges had a rougth cast finish on the back.
     
  5. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Not just the rough cast, the flanges on my car at least, aren't flat on the back face.
     
  6. altern8 Forum Junkie

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    i will try and get some pics when i get mine off [:$]
     
  7. altern8 Forum Junkie

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    are these the same ones you got gary

    [​IMG]

    bildon.com
     
  8. steve r

    steve r Forum Member

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    No [:x]

    I wish i'd stuck with ordering those ones from the states rather than the VW Racing ones i ended up getting for us.
    Edited by: steve r
     
  9. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    .... that have gone rusty,already [:^(]
    Edited by: GVK
     
  10. steve r

    steve r Forum Member

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    [8(] Mine still seem ok but the car has barely left the garage since i fitted them. [:$]

    I've been thinking about ordering a single stud from Bildon to check the quality and compare to ours, just checked their web site and it says it will cost $35 for international postage [:s] think i'll email them to check.
     
  11. altern8 Forum Junkie

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    why are the bildon ones better then all the others so far then
     
  12. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    That's one reason.
     
  13. DAVE 2227 Forum Junkie

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    To me those Bildon ones don`t look anything special tbh.
    For one the threads are cut not rolled,which would be far superior,the material spec isn`t given,which says that it isn`t anything special, and they are only plated,so once you tighten the plain section with whatever means you have it will rust and also as soon as you screw anything on to them the plating will be off.
    Makes them look pretty to sell though.
    The ones which are fitted from the rear of the hub cannot be beaten for safety aspects alone as those ones are no better than what you are trying to replace in the first place.
    My guess would be that they cost about 20-30p each to produce at the most as they will have thousands of them and I don`t think that many "racing" cars will have them fitted.
    Edited by: DAVE 2227
     
  14. altern8 Forum Junkie

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    i found of big pic of the ford ones too :)

    link
     
  15. Dub Nutta Forum Member

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    I have had the drums machined to acept the splined graystone studs from RalDes.

    [​IMG]

    Had the threads drilled out and reamed to 14mm and the area arround the back of the holes spot faced to allow the studs to seat down correctly.
     
  16. Dub Nutta Forum Member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Got the studs pressed in today, they are bloody tight, had me and a another guy swinging arround on a old skool 50T press to get them in.

    Labout intensive but they look very profesional and defintly won't be coming out...ever...ever
     
  17. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Proper job.

    Wish I'd gone down that route.
     
  18. altern8 Forum Junkie

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    how much did they cost to fit incl new drums and the studs did you get new front hubs too compared to garys ones [:$]
     
  19. Dub Nutta Forum Member

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    I paid 20 for the machineing and the use of a press and some muscles to press them in, so about 50 inc the drums.

    I haven't fitted the fronts yet. still not decided if there is enougth meat arround the holt bolts to do the fronts safely especialy considering the force required to press them in.
     
  20. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    On cars with those kind of studs as standard, they're not that tight to remove/fit, couple of taps with a copper hammer and they're out. Can easily pull them into the hub with an old wheel nut, couple of M12 washers and an impact gun.

    Maybe they need reaming out more than you had them done Ray?
    Edited by: GVK
     

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